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I’m seriously considering bagging the electric tailgate window for a manual crank on my 82 Cherokee. I’ve read mixed reviews on the Crown aftermarket kit. Short of finding a good used oem setup, is there and alternative to the Crown product?
What's the usual complaint about the electric windows? Previous discussion here and on IFSJA points to either home-made upgrade with aftermarket relays and upgraded wire and connectors, or a kit of such parts that does the same thing.
Does anything mechanical fail? I'd expect most of that to be the same, whether crank-operated or motor-operated. I recall the main complaint about the replacement kit was the splines in the aftermarket crank handle.
Very often motors like window and wiper motors can be revived if they are properly cleaned. There are not many service parts in a DC motor, maybe bearings and brushes. The armature and field windings can go open after long service; this comes from metal fatigue in the copper wire by repeated on-off stress from the magnetic fields. If a winding is open, I'd say it's not worth fixing.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
I have a 71 Wagoneer and initially gave up on the electric and went with the crown manual. It's junk. It wouldn't lock and it would roll down by itself on bumpy roads. I converted back to the electric with the relay system (lots of posts about that and I think BJ's sells one) and added a dakota digital remote system and I love it. Just my two cents.
tgreese wrote: ↑Mon Nov 28, 2022 8:21 am
What's the usual complaint about the electric windows? Previous discussion here and on IFSJA points to either home-made upgrade with aftermarket relays and upgraded wire and connectors, or a kit of such parts that does the same thing.
Does anything mechanical fail? I'd expect most of that to be the same, whether crank-operated or motor-operated. I recall the main complaint about the replacement kit was the splines in the aftermarket crank handle.
Very often motors like window and wiper motors can be revived if they are properly cleaned. There are not many service parts in a DC motor, maybe bearings and brushes. The armature and field windings can go open after long service; this comes from metal fatigue in the copper wire by repeated on-off stress from the magnetic fields. If a winding is open, I'd say it's not worth fixing.
Second this. Splurge once and do it right. Fix the electrics properly with relays and be done. Avoid the cheapie manual setup that's junk. There has only been a couple of times my current system of 6 years glitched out. Once was when the safety switch started acting up. Once was just an intermittent connection that was remedied by banging on the tailgate. Plans are to move the circuitry from inside the tailgate to the quarter panel. Water intrusion is causing some copper corrosion that is leading to the intermittent issue.
Build or buy a relay system, locate it in the driver's quarter panel, and heat shrink everything that can get moisture. If the safety switch is functioning, tuck the harness out of the way of the window travel. The window will operate for years without issue.
84 Grand Waggy-Radio Flyer (Garnet Red/3M Ebony Metallic woodgrain, with honey interior) AMC 360 2004 4.8LS/Advance Adapter/727/242 D44/AMC20 Serehill tailgate and headlight harnesses Ongoing thread-viewtopic.php?t=11897
If it was for me, I would simply eliminate all the connectors. You can solder to the relay tabs, and cover the connection with the 3M heat shrink. Connectors are a liability. The OEM connectors are there to make assembly at the factory fast and easy. You don't need them, and the original connectors are not weatherproof, much less waterproof. If you need to make a repair in the field, cut the wires and temporarily splice them back with butt connectors. Use grommets where you pass through sheet metal, and sheath the wire with vacuum hose anywhere there is a danger of wear or pinching. You can also glue the wire to the body steel - along its whole length - to further prevent chafing (old Baja racer trick).
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
If you mean the OEM crank-operated parts, yes. However, nearly all of these Jeeps came with the electric tailgate window. I would guess that the crank-operated unit became even more scarce as time went by, and completely disappeared as the GW went upscale and the FS Cherokee ended. Plus the news has been out about the manual setup for decades, and the Crown product would not exist if the OEM parts were available.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.