Incorrect. Retrobrights use Morimoto LED bulbs. They can be swapped out and are available online. They aren't sealed beams. They look like them. You can dig up the LED headlight thread and find pics I took when I installed mine that clearly show this.sierrablue wrote: ↑Sat Feb 04, 2023 9:17 am AND when the bulb burns out you're not out $400 (because the Holley lights are sealed beams). And if you REALLY need a bulb right that second, I would hope the parts stores would have one, it being a standard bulb. Way cheaper and easier to deal with than having to swap the entire lens and everything for a new sealed beam, that you're lucky if they have.
Not surprising. This is why I do my own work on dang near everything. Lots of "professional" shops that don't have a clue.sierrablue wrote: ↑Sat Feb 04, 2023 11:49 am Hm, interesting. I went to our local 4x4 shop (surprisingly underwhelming) and they told me the Retrobrights were a sealed beam still, and you had to replace the whole thing when they burned out.
Again, they're Morimotos. Technically, holley just put their name on the system. Morimoto makes the bulb and designed the housing. Doubt they're going anywhere soon.sierrablue wrote: ↑Sat Feb 04, 2023 11:49 am And I have a feeling that in the long run, the Holley bulbs are going to be hard to find.
These are stamped on both the housing AND bulb with the ever-important DOT and SAE approvals, so completely legal.sierrablue wrote: ↑Sat Feb 04, 2023 11:49 am And Idk what the headlight laws are where you are, but the low beam has to be less than 3770 lumens in MN, technically, though the auto manufacturers don't seem to care about that.
Every proper headlight housing uses the parabolic reflector for the same purpose That is where the focus and pattern comes from. Cutoff designs can vary from LED placement within the reflector parabola to an actual cutoff shield inside the housing (the Hella projector housings on my T/A have the later style).sierrablue wrote: ↑Sat Feb 04, 2023 11:49 am it relies on the reflector to change how the light leaves.
Those state the important SAE/DOT stamping on the housing. The bulb is where I'm not sure.sierrablue wrote: ↑Sat Feb 04, 2023 11:49 am https://www.octanelighting.com/one-7-cr ... -bulb-1x-7
^Those are the ones I want, although technically they're a little too bright for MN state laws. We'll see how it goes. (anybody who's buying it themselves, don't buy it directly from them; they charge you twice as much as other places).
Can't wait to see this gorgeous machine on the road!wimsurf wrote: ↑Sun Feb 05, 2023 2:31 am not much updates worth pictures yet.
but I did verify mileage on the engine and transmission by reading the ecu details:
- 19571 miles on engine
transfer case has been rebuild so that is new.
- 16378 miles on transmission
working on finishing the underside plumbing properly.
doing:
- making 6AN hardline fuel lines
- making 8AN hardline transmission cooler lines
- adding a mishimoto transmission cooler thermostat
- put the dashboard back in for the 5th time to test fit the restomodair airco unit
done:
- try to route all the ducting and hosing so I can keep my glove box
- wired up the transmission
- finished wiring all the windows and relays from Josh
- finished wiring the doorlocks and relay
- finished wiring the tailgate
- adjusted the tailgate itself and the glass channels for about 5 hours until it shuts smoothly without slamming it...
- have all outside lighting working
hope to finish the doing list in 2 weeks so I can start fabbing up an exhaust!
- added a 5$ switchback module to have daytime running lights that are also turn signals
Since you did the drop out kit with ECM/TCM. How much of the trans and engine wiring had to be added or done versus plug and play? Or was the wiring you did just routing the existing harnesses/plugs?done:
wired up the transmission
finished wiring all the windows and relays from Josh
finished wiring the doorlocks and relay
finished wiring the tailgate
adjusted the tailgate itself and the glass channels for about 5 hours until it shuts smoothly without slamming it...
have all outside lighting working
added a 5$ switchback module to have daytime running lights that are also turn signals
jeep wiring was a mess when I got it, none of my windows doorlocks worked properly so I had to buy a new wiring kit and start from scratch.motoriderx7x wrote: ↑Sun Feb 05, 2023 12:04 pm
Since you did the drop out kit with ECM/TCM. How much of the trans and engine wiring had to be added or done versus plug and play? Or was the wiring you did just routing the existing harnesses/plugs?
What did you use to tune the ECM? I have an entire 6.4L hemi donor vehicle to include ignition system I was hoping to be able to use as much of it as possible with out having to go with a ton of aftermarket computers/controllers. Do you think you needed the aftermarket TCM was necessary because the drivetrain and wiring was consolidated to function out of the crate?wimsurf wrote: ↑Mon Feb 06, 2023 11:18 amjeep wiring was a mess when I got it, none of my windows doorlocks worked properly so I had to buy a new wiring kit and start from scratch.motoriderx7x wrote: ↑Sun Feb 05, 2023 12:04 pm
Since you did the drop out kit with ECM/TCM. How much of the trans and engine wiring had to be added or done versus plug and play? Or was the wiring you did just routing the existing harnesses/plugs?
I also exchanged my steering column for one without gear selection lever out of an 88 XJ, so that caused some wiring on the wipers and lights to be different.
Engine was wired and works, just needed ignition and starter wires to go to the right terminals on the switch. But ECM needs tuning (literally throws all the codes for missing components and body control module, causes it to run for 1 minute and then shut down, not a problem now, but need to delete those references) basically they only removed the SKIM module to prevent the security protocol from keeping the engine to start.
TCM is from sound German automotive and came with it in a box. fairly easy to install and Russel, the owner of sound German is amazing in support.
Most challenging thing is the proper routing of wires and figuring out that the jeeps have an ignition switch with 2 seperate power circuits, and when moving from start to on, you lose power momentarily which sometimes causes the fuel relay to shut down.. added a delay relay, set it to 30 seconds, and it now is solved.
As far as I know the 8hp always need a tcm to be controlled unless you find a way to merge all the wiring and computers from the donor vehicle.motoriderx7x wrote:What did you use to tune the ECM? I have an entire 6.4L hemi donor vehicle to include ignition system I was hoping to be able to use as much of it as possible with out having to go with a ton of aftermarket computers/controllers. Do you think you needed the aftermarket TCM was necessary because the drivetrain and wiring was consolidated to function out of the crate?wimsurf wrote: ↑Mon Feb 06, 2023 11:18 amjeep wiring was a mess when I got it, none of my windows doorlocks worked properly so I had to buy a new wiring kit and start from scratch.motoriderx7x wrote: ↑Sun Feb 05, 2023 12:04 pm
Since you did the drop out kit with ECM/TCM. How much of the trans and engine wiring had to be added or done versus plug and play? Or was the wiring you did just routing the existing harnesses/plugs?
I also exchanged my steering column for one without gear selection lever out of an 88 XJ, so that caused some wiring on the wipers and lights to be different.
Engine was wired and works, just needed ignition and starter wires to go to the right terminals on the switch. But ECM needs tuning (literally throws all the codes for missing components and body control module, causes it to run for 1 minute and then shut down, not a problem now, but need to delete those references) basically they only removed the SKIM module to prevent the security protocol from keeping the engine to start.
TCM is from sound German automotive and came with it in a box. fairly easy to install and Russel, the owner of sound German is amazing in support.
Most challenging thing is the proper routing of wires and figuring out that the jeeps have an ignition switch with 2 seperate power circuits, and when moving from start to on, you lose power momentarily which sometimes causes the fuel relay to shut down.. added a delay relay, set it to 30 seconds, and it now is solved.
Yeah I've heard (literally) that Flowmaster 50s are super loud and irritating to listen to. Mine has a Flowmaster 70 (I think), and it's not super loud. I love the growl it makes--it's there but not too loud. Factory 2" t-pipe (I'd call it a Y-pipe but I just can't because of the way it's designed), into a short section of 2.25", into a 2.5" muffler, back into 2.25" for about 8" (I'd have gotten rid of that if I'd been thinking when I did the tailpipe), back to 2.5", and then the section I put in, which is 3". At least it shouldn't have any back pressure?wimsurf wrote: ↑Sat Feb 11, 2023 9:51 am Well, it fits
There is always room for a drone pipe, or an additional small muffler.
I installed a magnaflow to avoid drone. I don’t like the sound of flowmasters.
Sounds great!
https://youtube.com/shorts/6H4rEFTch_I?feature=share
We will see when I’ll start driving.
I took 3” because we had a lot of 3” pipe laying around.
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wimsurf wrote: ↑Sat Feb 11, 2023 9:51 am Well, it fits
There is always room for a drone pipe, or an additional small muffler.
I installed a magnaflow to avoid drone. I don’t like the sound of flowmasters.
Sounds great!
<video snip>
We will see when I’ll start driving.
I took 3” because we had a lot of 3” pipe laying around.
<images snip>
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