Stuka wrote:Most Toyota owners know nothing about cars. Hence why their times are so stretched out.
I agree and disagree. Owners of new Toyotas buy them so they don't have to worry about how they work, but older cars and their owners vary. In the MR2 world, things are very different. Most mechanics take a lot of shortcuts, and the usual shortcuts will kill those cars, so if you don't learn to work on them yourself and do the job right, the car will die.
Stuka wrote:To change a headlight in a Prius you have to remove the fender and a bunch of stuff inside that area. Dealership charges like 6 hours of labor for it.
Well...I don't know about that. First-gen cars are no different to change than any other car. On a second-generation Prius, you normally remove the bumper, not the fender, and it only takes a few moments. The dealership I worked at charged about half an hour, IIRC. I do not know what is required on the latest version, but I can't imagine you have to remove the fender.
Dumpy wrote:Cool! I got all the struts changed and it drives like new. I do have an oil leak but no cue where it's coming from. Not bad. Looks like its been leaking super slowly for a while on the timing cover side. What could that be? I'm digging the oil filter on top.
Oil filter on top? So it's a 5S-FE (four-cylinder). There are a few seals on the front of the engine. The cam and crank seal are obvious, and should be changed whenever the timing belt is replaced, every 60K miles. The oil pump is driven by the timing belt and it also has a seal that should be changed and an o-ring between the oil pump cover and housing that also should be changed. These often get ignored or overlooked by people not especially familiar with that engine.
I am one of those hard-headed OEM nuts and
very strongly suggest that you use genuine Toyota parts on this car. Sometimes they cost more, but that is because it costs more to build a quality component than one that is built to sell at the lowest price, by which I mean most aftermarket parts. Cheap parts will not perform as well or last as long. Buying on price is a real false economy. In particular, I would insist on genuine Toyota parts for the thermostat, tune-up parts (plugs, wires, cap, rotor), and gaskets, especially the head gasket. Those are critical, and aftermarket will fail where OEM will not. OEM oil filters are not expensive and their anti-drainback valves are a lot better at preventing that death rattle at startup.
Also, check the spark plug wells for oil. The tube seals eventually leak and often get ignored. This can lead to a misfire as the spark energy grounds out through the oil rather than firing the spark plug. If you do replace the tube seals and valve cover gasket, again, use OEM parts. Do not forget to put a small fillet of sealant (Toyota FIPG 00295-00103, or Hondabond, Right Stuff, etc) at the corner where the cam bearing cap meets the cylinder head. The valve cover gasket cannot reach all the way into that corner and needs a little help from the sealant.
'85 J20 Old Man Truck, bought @ 65K miles. Not great, but better than nothing at all.
High quality dumb stuff in the
intro thread and the
slow build thread
Prospect, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
Bad Company, 360th Misfire Regiment, 161st Haiku Assault Division
Tech Tip: there is no apostrophe in Willys. The more you know...