It's been slow progress, but better slow than none. I got the truck moved up to a buddy's warehouse where it will spend the winter. This will be great, because I can work on it inside and it's out of sight and out of mind for my wife (who will be much more impressed with my purchase when I can drive it around)
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I've continued the investigation into what needs done, and picked up a service manual on eBay as well as some additional ignition and charging circuit parts.
I have decided to add a ford style starter solenoid, both for ease of turning the engine over while I'm under the hood and because the high torque starter I was given doesn't have a third post to connect to the ballast resistor. I'm new to automotive electrical (especially points and condenser) but from what I understand, when the key is turned all the way to the right you energize the ignition circuit. This kicks the starter solenoid that is internal to the starter motor shut and allows the starter motor to energize, kick the drive gear out, and try to turn the motor over. The key being set to ignition also needs to bypass the ballast resister (who's purpose is to limit voltage to the ignition coil during normal operation) so that the ignition coil gets the full 12v to pass on to the distributor that sends it on to the plugs, which arc to make a return path through the block to eventually to get to the battery negative.
Anyway, I got a good deal on an overkill starter solenoid--I understand that Littlefuse bought Cole Hersee. It's rated for 200a continuous use and has an IP66 rating for moisture and dust. The solenoid is around $215 from Mouser or if you look for the 24213-03, but it shows up on eBay for around $50 if you look for part #3867771C91. I may pick up a second one to switch the main power for my relay/fuse box.
https://www.littelfuse.com/products/dc- ... 13-03.aspx1280_cCSknOrrmi0562c2.jpg
I also tracked down a new ballast resistor, I don't know that mine is bad yet but for $8 or so it was cheap insurance. Ignition Voltage Resistor Part #: BK S43243 from the local Napa should be a good fit--it is raited for .5-.6 Ohms, and the factory specs call out .495-.605 Ohms.
ballast resistor specs.JPG
@tgreese I've done some more thought about the ammeter and not lighting it on fire. I got a good deal on a shiny Powermaster 67293 Alternator. It's supposed to be 150A at full load and 100A at idle, that should be more than adequate to recharge the battery and run accessories. I think I will wire it up like a 3 wire GM with a charge light rather than trying to make the wire run for an ammeter in the dash.
J-3000 Dash.jpg
I will have to see what kind of shape the temp gauge, fuel gauge, and speedometer are but hopefully we can get them all working and leave the instrument cluster pretty much as is. Since I am replacing all my wiring anyway, I think it makes sense to modernize the flasher and lights relays as well as convert to LEDs.
Another electronic load that I want to run on a relay is the fuel pump (since the old mechanical one was bypassed). Any recommendations on fuel pump options? I guess that there's the horn, heater blower, etc. that could be cleaned up by running them on relays and take the distribution and electrical load out of the instrument cluster/other mechanical switches.
I was thinking about replacing the heater controls that are left of the instrument cluster with a tach and voltmeter.
hacked together charging + ignition circuit 1.0.JPG
Anyway, does anyone see anything super heinous about this planned circuit?
I might have a bead on a set of axles from a '96ish F350 with wheels and tires and maybe a donor master cylinder and booster. Depending on what my buddy wants for them, it might end up being a more cost effective route than servicing/swapping the drums on the OEM Dana 44s, buying new tires, building up the 44s, etc. If I get lucky, I'll get the full F350 carcass to pull parts from.
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