Ad blocker detected: Our website is made possible by displaying online advertisements to our visitors. Please consider supporting us by disabling your ad blocker on our website.
So I rolled it on March 16th. By some miracle it was like the best case scenario, and I was 100% uninjured, and could drive it home. Windshield was busted and it has some dents/scratches it didn't used to, but otherwise it's fine. Cleaned up really well.
Initial pics here.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Got the dents worked out pretty well; needs a new driver's fender and some paint, and they're not perfect, but it looks pretty good. Having the windshield out also gave me the chance to put the dash pad in.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Got it all back together Monday night after the glass guys came and installed a new windshield. Drove it again Tuesday, no class Wednesday, Thursday there was too much snow and I didn't go in, and then on Friday I drove it in, to drop it off for them to install the windshield trim.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Here's the plugged up fuel filter. At the glass shop on Friday, the fuel pump failed on me. Dollied it home behind dad's truck, and put an electric Mr. Gasket fuel pump on yesterday. Anyway, mechanical fuel pump guts right there.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
The speedometer was correct with the 225/75r15s; checked with a digital speedometer and 60 indicated is now 62. According to my math, that means that 62x=6000, so the percent it's off is ~4.3%. (x=96.7; 100-x=4.3). So it's not off by a ton; just a little bit. I'll probably just keep it at the limit on the gauge like I did before, but hey now I know I can add 4.3% when I'm calculating my mileage!
Seriously though, probably the best money we've put into this thing so far, or at least in awhile. It actually offers some feel in the steering, doesn't bounce around at all, and you can feel the suspension doing its job. Like, it's not rough, but you can feel that the suspension is doing the work rather than the tires. It's incredibly sure footed now, and there's less roll in turns. Additionally, I had to slam on the brakes for a deer last night, in the cold rain on the way home, and I could not lock up the tires. On dry pavement, if I'd given the Hankooks that much brake, they'd have locked up, let alone on the wet. There's a lot more control and feel, and Imo it looks better with these blackwalls and the slots than it did with the whitewalls and hubcaps.
New headlights installed; Octane Lighting crystal clear 7". Less than $60 shipped; I opted for the white lights because I HATE blue ones, with a passion. They are incredibly painful to see.
I'm happy with the look, and they look like they're gonna be really clean and bright (depending on the bulb obv).
Only thing is that I had to bore out the hole in the middle/back of the bucket (the part that gets adjusted, not the bracket that holds the bucket) a little bit to get the new light to clear. Mine has the early style buckets/brackets, with Chrysler stamps and part numbers. I checked on a set of the later (74-78 I think) brackets, and those already have a bigger hole, so it won't be a problem there. Issue there is they have the plastic tabs for the adjusters, which tend to break, which is why I didn't just swap to the later ones. And the later ones are clocked differently than the earlier ones, so they can't just be swapped over (I tried that shortcut ). Well you can bolt it up but the top of the light won't be at the top...
Anyway just thought I'd throw the info out there so anybody else looking for some headlights that don't stand out as aftermarket but are a huge upgrade (and don't have to have the entire thing replaced when it burns out). Also they're <$55 shipped I think, so they don't break the bank either.
What's your approach on the brake switch? My hydraulic switch just died, and I'd rather switch to mechanical than replace this thing knowing it will fail again in the future.
it is very easy to make a tab that screws to the steering column to hold it over the brake pedal. Nice part is, if you add cruise control it has the normally closed contacts too. I couldn't find any pics of my install.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.
W300 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 12, 2023 9:50 pm
Nice, those look nice and bright!
What's your approach on the brake switch? My hydraulic switch just died, and I'd rather switch to mechanical than replace this thing knowing it will fail again in the future.
This is the setup I got (haven't installed it yet). IMO the bracket for it is way overkill, but it's built for the Jeepsters and FSJs, and uses a standard, easy-to-find GM switch. I figure it's less likely to fail, and even if it does, you're more likely to be able to get it in a pinch.
I bought it when my first pressure switch failed but obv I needed brake lights on my DD so I bought another pressure switch, and just haven't fixed it yet because this switch hasn't given up the ghost yet.
I also really like JeepsterMan because he has A LOT of very nice, quality parts for the Kaiser Jeeps, not for FSJs, but most of the time if it also fits a FSJ, it is listed in the "fits" list. It's where I got my battery hold down, to continue using the original base (vs. the plastic one that the PO screwed directly into the stock steel one), and they have some Kaiser era mirrors and stuff too. Good people to work with.