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Installed new oem style door weatherstripping from BJs Off-road. Adjusted door hinges to get doors realigned. Now back of doors stick out 1/4”. Ran strikers all the way in and it doesn’t help much. Anyone else have this problem? If I remove weatherstripping doors close fine. It’s a 1982 Wagoneer.
When I replaced mine I was able to get them aligned ok they’re just really tight. A year later and not much better, just have to close the doors pretty hard. I think maybe the ones are made from a harder one more dense rubber.
When you close the doors do you get two clicks? Sounds like maybe only the first "notch" is engaging in the latch because the seals are too thick. Maybe they'll compress over time.
Might get it to close better by moving the strikes out rather than in. Then adjust them in as they take a set over time.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
I have had the same experience, and it's frustrating. I don't have anything bad to say about the supplier as a whole, but these door seals just are not right.
Fleet Fox
I do things my way, and I pay a high price.... JCM
I have reported on this exact door issue in a post sometime ago . BJs door seals and Team Wagoneer all use a seal that DOES NOT FIT any truck or Wagoneer pre 80s , such as a 77 Wagoneer or J truck and including ALL early rigs . The doors are different in the width of the
SEAL INDENTATIONS on the door by 3/8 the doors are wider on pre 80s trucks " . You cannot fix it or align your door to make it work. Ryan at BJs will claim you need to move door out and all of this nonsense , but the seals are incorrect . The proper seals are thinner and not available anywhere . I put one Bus new seal on My 72 J4000 and no way it can work , so I started checking doors for dimensions as I have early and the late doors . I then knew just what the problem is.
I will say that the old worn seals 9ff the late trucks can work as a replacement because they are pretty flattened out after 30 plus years of use. I got 2 used seals off an 80 Wagoneer and they work good . You do still have to shut your door firmly however even on these old seals but you can successfully make them work fine and the door does not get moved around or stick out .
No way you need to be unbolting the door and So trying to adjust it . Doors should never stick out and remember they did not before you pulled off your old weatherstrips. I'd like to see BJs actually get the correct seals made if possible, not use the wrong ones on early trucks and claim they are correct .
BTW ,My original seals had the colored windlace as part of the door seal and are different seals
Altogether .
Not related to bjs door seals... but i fixed my original door seals by just adding rope. You can stuff a thin rope where th3 door seal flap is and when the door closes on the foam flap the roap keeps it pushed out more. This solved all my door leaking issues for the seals as least.
I can show a picture of what im talking about if anyone wants. Th3 rope hasnt poped out fir the last 5 years..
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)
To create more space for tight fitting seals try moving the pinch flange the seals are mounted on. This can be done with a fairly heavy hammer and a block of wood.
I used to name my FSJ’s after their previous owners, I realized I had too many with five named Rick.
Threepiece, I am debating doing this. it just kills me to have to do it now that I'm almost done. I'm doubly frustrated because I mocked up before paint (with old seals) and marked all the mounting positions with a punch or a small drill bit. I also agree with the other comments about moving the door mounts and such. I have also been through these machinations and it changed nothing. If you have nothing, these are OK, if you are going for something approaching restoration, these are the wrong part. Not a dig against BJ's, but guys, please, make it right.
Fleet Fox
I do things my way, and I pay a high price.... JCM
The pinchwelds were adjusted at the factory so the doors would close...Its usually the pinchweld at the front of the door that keeps it from closing. Beat that pinchweld toward the interior of the truck to loosen up the seal fit...not saying this will fix all the fitment problems after all the seals available today are not the seals Jeep installed on the trucks. Need to be thankful any seals are available at all. We should keep in mind that the OEM seal was a superior seal, to recreate the same seal for the limited aftermarket would be cost prohibited. So adjust your doors guys or bend your pinchwelds and be happy..
After reading about these door seals from BJs as I’m planing on ordering a whole seal kit from them or Team Grand Wagoneer has anyone out there found another vendor that supplies something closer to OEM?
Also is BJs aware that their seals don’t fit properly? I may email them to see if they’ve updated or plan to.
The BJ's Kits are very good, and they are nice because everything is in there. Honestly, their customer service is awesome, light years ahead of option #2.
Think of this thread more as like a comparing notes thread, a venting thread, a I have spent 3 hours trying to get this right and a "am I going crazy? am I the only one on the planet having this issue? " thread.
In the big picture it basically boils down to this. There is no Year One, or LMC Truck for FSJs. BJ's and TGW are great to have, but a lot of times you have to make new parts fit. It's just a fact of FSJ life. There are very few bolt on and go solutions. Most things need to be massaged to work.
I would recommend the BJ's kit, I used one on my build. The caveat is simply that I would plan on spending some time with a towel wrapped block and a dead blow hammer to get the door seals to fit better, (as others have mentioned above) before you go to paint if that's the plan.
Fleet Fox
I do things my way, and I pay a high price.... JCM
Not that awesome , Ryan tried to tell me to move my DOORS OUT and realign etc . Then was trying to play a game on returning them. like oh if they are installed we won't take them back . I sold them on EBAY to a happy buyer . They are WRONG for pre 80s vehicals with the early doors / latch design . Seals do not fit as they are too thick for the door . The seals ARE super nice and well made for the right years they fit so recommended for 1980s up that use this seal . Again early 70s trucks use a DIFFERENT door seal. Early trucks use a door mount seal . I realize not much else out there, but try STEELE RUBBER PRODUCTS for another possible solution for seals . I'd suggest BJs just try to offer the correct seals , your doors should not have to be unbolt ed and all of that . That's not the answer .
What you say about pre 80's may be true but the OP has an '82.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
sansabarJ wrote:Not that awesome , Ryan tried to tell me to move my DOORS OUT and realign etc . Then was trying to play a game on returning them. like oh if they are installed we won't take them back . I sold them on EBAY to a happy buyer . They are WRONG for pre 80s vehicals with the early doors / latch design . Seals do not fit as they are too thick for the door . The seals ARE super nice and well made for the right years they fit so recommended for 1980s up that use this seal . Again early 70s trucks use a DIFFERENT door seal. Early trucks use a door mount seal . I realize not much else out there, but try STEELE RUBBER PRODUCTS for another possible solution for seals . I'd suggest BJs just try to offer the correct seals , your doors should not have to be unbolt ed and all of that . That's not the answer .
Check out this and other options on Amazon...Having the same issues with TGW weather-strips. This may be an option??? The bulb is 3/8" not 5/8" like the ones that wont work.
Ive been of the forum for quite awhile and finally getting back . Sorry about not responding to your questions.
Yes the TGW molded seals are same as BJs. They will not work on 70s rigs . Too thick and not correct. . The generic non molded seal is just as thick and is the same issues . I'd look I to STEELE RUBBER PRODUCTS and see wht their catalog of seals might turn up .but scrou going the junkyard is a good idea to locate a reasonable substitute . I use USED late door seals from 80s up wags and J trucks
As they are compressed down enough to seal very well . You STILL shutdoor with a firm push but they "do not require" any rough slamming . Think of them as a well broken in seal that works . My only caution is the used ones can have rust at bottom sealing area at bottom front or at bottom rear from donor trucks .
But a good choice for me so far .
my cherokee is also and '82. these are the BJs seals. I can not adjust the doors for good fit. I just had a paint job. NO WAY in hell- that i beating the pinch welds around to fix this.
1982 Cherokee, base (Bumppo)
AMC 258 / A727 - AMC 20 / NP208
Holley Sniper with Hyperspark
3" Rough County Lift
I see that BJs now sells a molded door weatherstripping in addition to the universal. Does anyone know if this solves the fitment issues? (i re-read, seems like maybe NO)
1982 Cherokee, base (Bumppo)
AMC 258 / A727 - AMC 20 / NP208
Holley Sniper with Hyperspark
3" Rough County Lift