My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

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sirrus
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Location: Hillsboro, OR

Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by sirrus » Sat May 08, 2021 8:26 pm

Got exhaust fixed today, took the guy 15 minutes to properly weld all the bad spots. Reset the self-learning and within few minutes of driving all issues I had were gone! Idle is rock steady at idle target rpm (I set it to 750, powermaster alternator is struggling below 700). It stalled after I put fresh gas in it (had 3/4 tank of gas sitting since early February), reset self-learning again and adjusted IAC - smooth sailing from there.

Overall it's amazing - feels like more power, great throttle response, no surging or bogging. I love ProFlo :)

Lube helped with speedo cable - it's quiet now with just a bit of bouncing, but it's barely noticeable and happens only at low speeds (below 20mph). I think it'll be gone after new cable settles.

Tranny is shifting better, did couple more fine adjustments with the cable stop and I'm happy with it now.

Oil pressure is reading normal now, I guess before I didn't let oil warm up all the way and that was the reason for higher pressure. New temp sender is going to show tomorrow and of course the old one decided to come back alive :)
Sometimes we reinvent the wheel not to have more wheels but to have more inventors

1988 Grand Wagoneer - AMC 360 with ProFlo4 MPFI, TF727, NP229 and lots of relays and other electric upgrades :)
Headlight harnesses and 3D printed parts for sale
How to clean electric switches (power windows, locks, seats)


Topic author
sirrus
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Posts: 688
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 11:13 pm
Location: Hillsboro, OR

Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by sirrus » Mon May 10, 2021 5:05 pm

I really dislike connector for stock coolant temp sender, why would you use bullet connector if there are perfect metric threads on it? That thing was getting loose all the time I have the Jeep, then I replaced the connector when it fell apart and in a short time started seeing the same behavior all over again :banghead:

Now my sender is on it's last leg and I just got a new one today, so I spent few minutes playing around with M5 hardware that I had laying around. Here's what I ended up with

Image

To avoid something touching exposed metal and screwing up gauge readings I wanted to insulate both nuts. A bit of heat shrink on lower nut and liquid electrical tape on top acorn nut and it looks better

Image

Here's how it looks assembled

Image
Sometimes we reinvent the wheel not to have more wheels but to have more inventors

1988 Grand Wagoneer - AMC 360 with ProFlo4 MPFI, TF727, NP229 and lots of relays and other electric upgrades :)
Headlight harnesses and 3D printed parts for sale
How to clean electric switches (power windows, locks, seats)


Johnzi10
Posts: 116
Joined: Wed Nov 25, 2020 9:43 pm

Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by Johnzi10 » Mon May 10, 2021 6:44 pm

You make Wagonmasters look like amateurs!
2020 Cherokee Limited v6. Wife’s Jeep
2002 Grand Cherokee Laredo Daughters Jeep
1998 XJ Cherokee “the Ghost”
1989 Grand Wagoneer my Covid mental health medicine


TimGee
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Apr 28, 2021 3:01 pm

Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by TimGee » Sat May 22, 2021 2:30 pm

sirrus wrote:
Tue Apr 28, 2020 9:55 am

Clarion M508 - same functionality, looks very good and it's $190 at crutchfield. Bought it and two pairs of Polk DB522 speakers. Cool thing about crutchfield - they included all wiring adapters (stereo and speakers) and mounting frame for free, so installation was easy

Image

And goal achieved - I can listen to music again and it does not stick out like a sore thumb.
Hi Sirrus,

I was wondering if you could tell me what wiring adapter (harness) You used for the Clarion M508. I purchased the same head unit from Crutchfield and it only came with connector for the back of the head unit that ends in bare wires. It looks like I need two 8 pin connectors. I found the connector for the antenna.

Here are some picts:
IMG_6227.JPG
IMG_6228.JPG
IMG_6229.JPG
Thanks in advance!

Tim
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1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer. 360ci V8. Holly Fuel Injection


Topic author
sirrus
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Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 11:13 pm
Location: Hillsboro, OR

Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by sirrus » Mon May 24, 2021 1:40 pm

Hi Tim,

I used Metra 70-1002 Receiver Wiring Harness that Crutchfield shipped with my stereo, it matched perfectly with factory connector on my 88.

Here's a pic with stereo guts out, you can kind of see the connector/adapter I have

Image

From your last picture it looks like you have a different connector (2 8pin instead of single 12-ish pin I have on my rig). I went through adapters Crutchfield sells and found this - Metra 70-1000 Receiver Wiring Harness, description says that it works for "select 1986-88 AMC, Eagle, Jeep, and Renault vehicles" and it looks correct for your connectors. Here's a pic:

Image

AMC was using whatever they had in a parts bin for last years :D

Just in case you or someone else needs it, I used Metra 72-1002 Speaker Wiring Harness for speakers (if you're keeping factory speaker wiring) and Scosche 010FJ1550B Dash Kit to mount new stereo in the dash
Sometimes we reinvent the wheel not to have more wheels but to have more inventors

1988 Grand Wagoneer - AMC 360 with ProFlo4 MPFI, TF727, NP229 and lots of relays and other electric upgrades :)
Headlight harnesses and 3D printed parts for sale
How to clean electric switches (power windows, locks, seats)


TimGee
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Apr 28, 2021 3:01 pm

Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by TimGee » Mon May 24, 2021 6:18 pm

sirrus wrote:
Mon May 24, 2021 1:40 pm
Hi Tim,

I used Metra 70-1002 Receiver Wiring Harness that Crutchfield shipped with my stereo, it matched perfectly with factory connector on my 88.
Thanks Sirrus. I was able to re-use the original dash mount and it seems to fit well.

I was unable to find a dedicated wiring harness that goes to the two 8-pin harnesses so I just re-used the wiring harnesses off the old stereo. The speaker harness was easy but any chance you can help me sort out some of the other wires for the “POWER” Harness. Here are the wiring diagrams for the new and the old stereo.
IMG_6232 copy.jpg
IMG_6233 copy.jpg
I can see that "BLACK" (B) (old Jeep diagram) goes to the black wire on the new stereo. “PINK” (D) goes to the yellow wire on the new stereo. “GRAY” (F) goes to the Blue wire but which connections should I make for (A), (C) and (E)?

Any idea?

Tim
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1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer. 360ci V8. Holly Fuel Injection


Topic author
sirrus
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Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by sirrus » Mon May 24, 2021 7:09 pm

I never rely on colors, especially if it's not brand new vehicle, it's better to go by function instead. You also want to start from new stereo side - what do I need for it to work and where do I get the required signal from old wiring. With rare exceptions there is no need to connect every lead of original harness to something on the new one.

So here are you "old" wires:
A (violet with tracer) is ACC/IGN - means it receives 12V when key in ACC or RUN position. That would go to power lead wire (red) on new stereo

C and E are used for auto dimming stereo backlight, so it doesn't blind you at night (when your headlights (or park lights in this case) are on) or interior lights dimmer can also control illumination of the radio. Keep in mind, even though I'm sure that's how it works, it is still just my guess since I don't know exactly how old radio used these inputs.

Clarion M508 unit is actually a marine head unit and thus doesn't have the option to automatically dim it's illumination depending on headlights being on or off. That sucks, but I got used to it - it actually has a manual setting for brightness (high or low), I left it on low and it's OK even at night. Some people are saying it's too bright, and I read a post somewhere where someone took the unit apart and put some sort of yellow film over the screen. That lowered the brightness and made it more consistent with the rest of dash illumination which is yellow. Haven't tried that as I'm fine with brightness on low setting.

I played around with connecting different wires to M508's illumination lead (orange/white) and I think I left it connected to a wire that has 12 volts when lights are on (that would be E (blue) in your case). I'd suggest checking when C or E get 12V (multimeter or test light) and how M508 behaves with and without 12V on illumination lead. Unfortunately, I don't remember, but it should only take few minutes to figure out with voltmeter. Once you have an idea how it works, make a permanent connection.

Hope that helps!
Sometimes we reinvent the wheel not to have more wheels but to have more inventors

1988 Grand Wagoneer - AMC 360 with ProFlo4 MPFI, TF727, NP229 and lots of relays and other electric upgrades :)
Headlight harnesses and 3D printed parts for sale
How to clean electric switches (power windows, locks, seats)


TimGee
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Apr 28, 2021 3:01 pm

Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by TimGee » Mon May 24, 2021 7:46 pm

sirrus wrote:
Mon May 24, 2021 7:09 pm
I never rely on colors, especially if it's not brand new vehicle, it's better to go by function instead. You also want to start from new stereo side - what do I need for it to work and where do I get the required signal from old wiring. With rare exceptions there is no need to connect every lead of original harness to something on the new one.

So here are you "old" wires:
A (violet with tracer) is ACC/IGN - means it receives 12V when key in ACC or RUN position. That would go to power lead wire (red) on new stereo

C and E are used for auto dimming stereo backlight, so it doesn't blind you at night (when your headlights (or park lights in this case) are on) or interior lights dimmer can also control illumination of the radio. Keep in mind, even though I'm sure that's how it works, it is still just my guess since I don't know exactly how old radio used these inputs.

Clarion M508 unit is actually a marine head unit and thus doesn't have the option to automatically dim it's illumination depending on headlights being on or off. That sucks, but I got used to it - it actually has a manual setting for brightness (high or low), I left it on low and it's OK even at night. Some people are saying it's too bright, and I read a post somewhere where someone took the unit apart and put some sort of yellow film over the screen. That lowered the brightness and made it more consistent with the rest of dash illumination which is yellow. Haven't tried that as I'm fine with brightness on low setting.

I played around with connecting different wires to M508's illumination lead (orange/white) and I think I left it connected to a wire that has 12 volts when lights are on (that would be E (blue) in your case). I'd suggest checking when C or E get 12V (multimeter or test light) and how M508 behaves with and without 12V on illumination lead. Unfortunately, I don't remember, but it should only take few minutes to figure out with voltmeter. Once you have an idea how it works, make a permanent connection.

Hope that helps!
Yes this helps tremendously. Thank you so much and have a great night. I'll post back when I'm finished with the install.
1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer. 360ci V8. Holly Fuel Injection


JeepNorris
Posts: 7
Joined: Wed Dec 02, 2020 7:22 am

Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by JeepNorris » Sun May 30, 2021 12:34 am

sirrus wrote:
Mon Feb 15, 2021 4:43 pm
Not a lot of progress since we got few days of real winter here in Oregon and it's too cold to work outside.

Valve covers are back on the engine, along with new distributor and cleaned up thermostat housing (hole for CTO is plugged now)

Image

Printed a mount for ECU and put it where Duraspark box used to be

Image

And my first time trying to fab something out of metal (aluminum flat bars in this case) - bracket for Edelbrock fuel sump . Sump will be mounted on driver side fender, under overflow tank. Bracket is a bit crooked as I was measuring it off the sump itself, only to find out exact dimensions on the last page of installation instruction when I cut and riveted everything together... :banghead:

Image

Two rivnut for bottom bolt because II initially put it "wrong" way (would have a loop of wiring around it) - now I can mount the sump facing either way

Image

Image

Bottom straps should've been a couple inches longer - originally I was planning to bolt them to fender as well, but after fitting the bracket it doesn't look like an option. Both bottom straps would be fixed to the frame, debating on exact way of mounting now (extend with aluminum or print plastic parts, drill frame and put a rivnut or use VHB tape).

Can you share some pics of installed sump tank under coolant reservoir? I'm struggling to find space for it with all existing components in the way. See attached pic of how crowded my engine bay is...
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Topic author
sirrus
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My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by sirrus » Sun May 30, 2021 12:42 am

Here’s the only pic that I’ve found on my phone

Image

That’s with overflow bottle off, you can see a bit of washer bottle on the right. I’ve removed air pump and factory cruise (replaced by DD cruise kit).

I’m out of town for the weekend, will get better pics when I get back
Sometimes we reinvent the wheel not to have more wheels but to have more inventors

1988 Grand Wagoneer - AMC 360 with ProFlo4 MPFI, TF727, NP229 and lots of relays and other electric upgrades :)
Headlight harnesses and 3D printed parts for sale
How to clean electric switches (power windows, locks, seats)


Topic author
sirrus
Vendor
Posts: 688
Joined: Fri Sep 13, 2019 11:13 pm
Location: Hillsboro, OR

Re: My 1988 Grand Wagoneer

Post by sirrus » Tue Jun 01, 2021 11:08 pm

Couple more pictures showing where I put surge tank

Image

Image

Image
Sometimes we reinvent the wheel not to have more wheels but to have more inventors

1988 Grand Wagoneer - AMC 360 with ProFlo4 MPFI, TF727, NP229 and lots of relays and other electric upgrades :)
Headlight harnesses and 3D printed parts for sale
How to clean electric switches (power windows, locks, seats)

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