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Looking at a used light setup and wondering if its worth the cash. He says its led and comes with the lights (square) and boxes (assuming they are relays?) What is this worth or is it even worth installing? I will try and post pics.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 2
Last edited by hutcho on Thu Oct 03, 2013 2:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
hutcho wrote:Looking at a used light setup and wondering if its worth the cash. He says its led and comes with the lights (square) and boxes (assuming they are relays?) What is this worth or is it even worth installing? I will try and post pics.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 2
LED is NOT HID.
That looks like a pretty cheesy HID setup, indeed. As the others have mentioned I would skip to the next one.
I've been looking for quite a while and have yet to find a good HID setup. Like Pyro said, you REALLY want projectors to do HIDs correctly. Sure, a lot of people have done without them, but they are in no way even comparable to a good projector setup.
I'm still running the stock stuff for now, as I've yet to find anything worth the expense to replace is. The newer LED headlights look pretty promising, but they're still really big money at this point.
aa
1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank
Cecil14 is right, LED is NOT HID, and that does look like a low dollar setup, maybe a Chinese, or Korean knockoff. You asked for opinions, not advice, but here's my advice anyway...if you want to greatly improve your lighting then spend your $$$ on a set of the Sylvania "Silver Star" headlamps, then install a pair of 30 Amp relays to route power directly to the headlamps from the battery. You'll be amazed at the difference AND it'll all be legal (as long as they're aimed correctly).
haminawag wrote:Cecil14 is right, LED is NOT HID, and that does look like a low dollar setup, maybe a Chinese, or Korean knockoff. You asked for opinions, not advice, but here's my advice anyway...if you want to greatly improve your lighting then spend your $$$ on a set of the Sylvania "Silver Star" headlamps, then install a pair of 30 Amp relays to route power directly to the headlamps from the battery. You'll be amazed at the difference AND it'll all be legal (as long as they're aimed correctly).
Agreed. For your lowest cost, surest results this is the best setup available. Guaranteed results and not a huge $$ investment up front.
aa
1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank
I've been considering doing some lighting upgrades on my Wag. On my samurai, I converted to Hella E-Codes, which are think MOT approved for europe, but not actually road legal for US.. They're what most of the motorcycle guys run here.. They are great. The cut off is sharp, the lighting is excellent. It wasn't quite enough for me, so I added 35w 5000k HIDs to them, and bam.. awesome. I've actually been thinking of robbing this setup and putting it on my JK, because I've not done anything more than start the samurai to see if the battery was still good in about 6 months now.
There's still a little bit of glare thrown, but the cut off is still very sharp. I'm thinking of doing something similar on the Wag, but I keep thinking I want a razor grill, so I'd hate to buy square housings and then have to buy round lights later.
Thanks for all the advice guys. Thought there was a chance at a deal and obviously I was wrong, im very glad I came here. Not even ready for lights yet honestly, just saw them on one of the bst facebook pages and like I said thought I could pick them up cheap. I will look into those Sylvania ones when the time comes, being able to see at night is one area I dont mind spemding good money on
Yeah this is not a good deal & not LED. HIDs on black housings work & they can be fine if set up right most that reject them have never ran them or did the cheap deal. I've been running HIDs for 4 years with no trouble but did go through several sets to do it right. Projection surely is not the answer. I get blinded more from projection bulbs coming up behind me than any other HIDS. Projection after market are mostly not DOT either.I wouldn't waste my time with this set up because they are halogen low beams & HID High beams they are trash. That's why they are for sale. Also the wiring is hacked & you do not have the male plugs to put them in. Without relays these will be trouble. I would definitely pass.
1980 Cherokee wrangled & mangled
MSD complete system
Eddy intake
Holley 650
Comp cam 270H
4" Rusty's
Ramsey 12K winch
208
Built to drive not sit in the garage.
No longer strangled. I didn't build it for anyone else.
If you can't improve it why waste your time?
I was hoping to hear from you serehill! I looked at the sylvanias early. Do you guys buy a different housing to make them work best? If so where? Im not gonna cheap out and have to do this twice lol
For my wag I ordered the "silver stars" on auto zone.com and they were sent to my local store where I picked them up. They are a direct replacement for the stock lights, just plug them in and reattach the trim rings.
Haminawag has the cheapest up front solution. They are old school glass. The housings are more expensive than this answer. Sylvania halogens or silver stars do really well. so do the GE Halogens.
Silver stars are pricey & you can get the same performance from halogens for less.
Would you give 20 bucks for 2 GE halogens shipped? They are 65 watts Halogens. The cost on the link does not include shipping. you can find them cheaper but than the shipping is higher but your choice I bought 25 of them so I have a few. Nothing else to buy these are the complete set up 2 for 20 shipped.
1980 Cherokee wrangled & mangled
MSD complete system
Eddy intake
Holley 650
Comp cam 270H
4" Rusty's
Ramsey 12K winch
208
Built to drive not sit in the garage.
No longer strangled. I didn't build it for anyone else.
If you can't improve it why waste your time?
Do you still need to do the relays for these? Regardless wouldnt hurt to upgrade the wiring on it im sure. Also is there a special plug for those or am I not understanding how they work right? That replaces the whole enclosure right?
No if you have square light these are a direct replacement. The relays can help make your lights brighter but their primary objective is to remove the load from the headlight switch & dimmer to keep them from burning out a by product of that is better voltage at the bulb. You do what you want. standard bulbs are 55 watt. These are a little more load. I am biased but I would run a relay.
Correct there are no housings to buy for these.
Before you ask 2 bulbs & a relay set up to your door 70 bucks.
1980 Cherokee wrangled & mangled
MSD complete system
Eddy intake
Holley 650
Comp cam 270H
4" Rusty's
Ramsey 12K winch
208
Built to drive not sit in the garage.
No longer strangled. I didn't build it for anyone else.
If you can't improve it why waste your time?
The relay is going to give you much more consistent power at the headlights. If you have any kind of load running through the inside wiring you won't see it at the headlights with a relay in place, whereas you will with the stock wiring. It WILL give you brighter headlights. You will never get battery voltage at the lights going through the factory wiring, there is just too many points of voltage drop along the way.
You can run without adding a relay, lots of people do. I haven't done it to mine yet, but it WILL make a noticeable difference.
aa
1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank
Well the truck is still a project so I dont see any reason not to add the relays at this point. I understand all the reasons about voltage drop and whatnot, I'm an electrician lol. I think for now I will just do the lights from you serehill. I'm kinda straped for cash so the whole thing is outta my range, plus sounds fun to build myself
If you dont me asking where do you get your relays?
You can get relays just about anywhere...any standard automotive relay will work. Typical parts store should carry them. Ideally you want ones with two switched outputs (87 and 87a I think). Run each light from it's own terminal on the relay.
aa
1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank