89 GW - odd starting issue, and question on oil pump/t-cover

[AtlantaDan]

1989 Grand Wagoneer/360 v8. New engine, fuel pump, wires, plugs, etc.

When the engine is cold, turn the key and it immediately seems to start, but instantly dies. No chugging, no cough - just "off". Another turn of the key for a few seconds and it catches and fires up just fine. Does not do this when warm, so I am wondering if it is a fuel problem?

When replacing the water pump yesterday (damn those AC bracket engineers...) I noticed an oil leak on the top of the pump housing, timing cover side. It looks like it may have cracked. Can this be ground down a bit for bite and JB welded or am I looking at a new/replacement timing cover?

Thanks

[dodgerammit]

Still rocking the carburetor? If so, are you setting the choke and giving fuel prime by applying a full pump of the accelerator before starting?

[will e]

Welcome to the board!
dodgerammit already asked if you had a carb and are you using the 'recommended' starting procedure.

The timing cover leak is most likely leaking from where the plug for the oil pump shaft is.
See this thread viewtopic.php?p=212932

[AtlantaDan]

Yes, still have the carb. Thank you for the starting tip - I had no idea. Someday, I'll buy a FSM and the original owner's manual.

The plug on the oil pump drive makes sense. I'll be digging in to that one soon, but it's good to know there are repair options that don't involve replacing the timing cover.

Thanks!

[dodgerammit]

Yes, still have the carb. Thank you for the starting tip - I had no idea. Someday, I'll buy a FSM and the original owner's manual.

The plug on the oil pump drive makes sense. I'll be digging in to that one soon, but it's good to know there are repair options that don't involve replacing the timing cover.

Thanks!

EFI spoils us. Some of us are so spoiled we have Hemis or LS motors in them now.

After setting the choke and starting, the engine should be at fast idle. Let it run there for a bit. The colder it is, the longer it needs to run. On mine (when it had the 360), this was usually a minute or 2 around freezing temps. Only about 30 seconds or so if temps are 60 or above. If the idle doesn't begin to slow any, you can quickly and lightly 'blip' the throttle and it should drop the idle speed some. I always gave it a minute or so beyond this during warm weather and up to 10 minutes if really cold to fully come off fast idle before I started driving. Otherwise, it would try to die at the end of the driveway, first couple of stop signs, etc until the engine (choke system) had warmed. You may need to blip the throttle again, but a properly functioning choke should idle down on its own. Once at normal idle, you're ready to drive.

[letank]

May be a bit lean? What is the outside temperature when you encounter the issue.

Still running the carb... and it starts well even in 25F...

As for the crack on the timing cover... are we talking about the corresponding idler shaft of the oil pump on top of the oil pump housing on the timing cover. The question was asked some time ago... you can clean up with brake cleaner and add a dollip of RTV, grey is fine

Here is mine,not leaking

OilPumpIdlerShaftCover.jpg

and the other with some RTV

OilPumpIdlerFSJ.jpg

[will e]

I believe the correct starting procedure is to turn the ignition to the ON/Run position. Depress the fuel pedal to the floor and then release. Then crank.

[AtlantaDan]

Using the correct start procedure has the car starting in about 1/4 rev of the starter now. Thanks! I'll also be trying the RTV issue on the oil pump cover.