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You pretty much don't want to run shims if possible. they seem to always want to kick out or break.
buy a couple of spring perches (from rough stuff), prep the assembly by loosensing all the ubolts, shackles, etc. Then bring it by and I will burn in the new perches along with watch you suffer while flipping the shackle/springs.
Blake wrote:You pretty much don't want to run shims if possible. they seem to always want to kick out or break.
buy a couple of spring perches (from rough stuff), prep the assembly by loosensing all the ubolts, shackles, etc. Then bring it by and I will burn in the new perches along with watch you suffer while flipping the shackle/springs.
You would have to move the springs under the frame, which would give him a lot more lift than he is wanting. The post mount springs don't have anything to weld a hanger to on the outside of the frame like box mounts do.
Also, with the thick side of the shim facing forward, the issue that typically causes them to kick out wont happen. As the force on the shim will be the opposite of normal.
Blake wrote:just go SOA and 35's and get it over with man.
Nope the 74 is staying stock height until it can get 4 linked or swapped to a modern FSJ frame.
The 91 is getting lifted, I have a 4 inch Skyjacker kit and if that doesn't feel tippy I'll go higher. I've also got a set of flat top knuckles for high steer. So really I could go to a ten inch lift and be Brutus height. Or I could do shackle reverse and be SPOA height with a smoother ride and more travel.
Nikkormat wrote:Could I just have a double cardan put at the transfer case end of the driveshaft?
Yes, provided you shorten the drive shaft as well.
EDIT: Hmm, you have a QT, so the drive shaft will still have an angle. It may still work. but really, two shims cost what, ten bucks? Just get ones with centering pins and you will be fine.
Nikkormat wrote:Could I just have a double cardan put at the transfer case end of the driveshaft?
Yes, provided you shorten the drive shaft as well.
EDIT: Hmm, you have a QT, so the drive shaft will still have an angle. It may still work. but really, two shims cost what, ten bucks? Just get ones with centering pins and you will be fine.
I just don't have time to mess with u bolts right now. If it's as simple as taking out two bolts and putting them back in a different position then great.
If it's an all weekend project I'll just deal with the tail dragger stance until the 74 isn't my only ride. And once it's semi-retired I'll get some new rear springs.
You can drive it without the shims, I did for some time. But I did get some vibes at around 55, and u-joints only lasted about 6 months (drove it that way for about 2 years actually).
Nikkormat wrote:I could go to a ten inch lift and be Brutus height.
This is my vote!
EDIT: I wouldn't do the shackle reversal if I were you anyways. Much more fun to deny Blake's "faulty wheeling science" and say that you just don't want to bend new springs like the Honcho does! LOL
The funniest thing to me about Blake's shackle reverse is that mere months before he talked me out of doing a shackle reverse. And then he talked himself into doing it. And he still bends leaf springs!
Tad has a spring over and a shackle flip kit for 74-75 Jeeps now that converts to later full-size springs on the rear. All I really want is more flex and a smoother ride so taking the stock leafs from the 91 and putting them on the Cherokee would be perfect. With an end result something like this: