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Anybody running a Holley Sniper EFI on the AMC 360 Wagoneers? I'm looking for the best 12v wire to splice into for the ignition. Right now I have it spliced in to the air conditioning connection but I would like to add A/C this year. New to the forum and new to vehicle restoration. Any help would be much appreciated!
Usually you take the power feed for the OEM control unit. It comes from the ignition switch and is in parallel with the coil wire. Holley uses a separate power wire, and the small red wire turns the unit on and off, as I recall.
You could buffer it with a relay (as the GM Rochester system does) though I'd think Holley would suggest that if needed.
Note that you will need a diode in the ignition feed to the Holley unit.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
I ran the sniper control wire to the chime module that I pulled since I was missing all the door switches so it always buzzed. Simple blade connector and plug into correct chime location. You will need a diode off the alternator or you will get backfeed and the truck won't turn off. If that happens just grab and pull the blade connector from the chime module. Personal experience on this one. If you want it wired into the old harness I believe the yellow and green connector at drivers side firewall that has a plug on it you can use the yellow wire. I did that originally but then moved it because of the alternator backfeed and needing to yank the wire from the chime to turn it off. After figuring out about the backfeed I never tried moving it back to the yellow wire.