Wiring issue on Power Window Relay

[MilesTexas]

I've went through about 10 youtube videos and countless threads on more complex set ups of a relayed door window. I know this should be super simple but I feel like I am one crossed wire from it working.

This is the set up where I have just added two weather packs - allowing it to function while testing the other set up (This works completely as original)



This set up is the two 5 pin relay. One relay working on the up function and one on the down function. What has me confused is I can hear the relays clicking when its in action but no movement.



Black = ground on both
Red = power source on both
Yellow = 87A = No use
Blue = Connect to device (one relay staying with the hot side of up then reverse on the other relay)
White = Connect to device (one relay staying with the hot side of up then reverse on the other relay)

Like I said, I can hear them click when they should be operating. And I know the wiring works when I reset it to original. What obvious thing am I missing here?

[tgreese]

I suggest you draw out your circuit, and use your multimeter to test what happens when you activate it.

The relays have two output connections, normally open (NO) and normally closed (NC). There is also an input, and the two connections for the relay coil that cause the action.

relay (600 x 280).jpg

You can hear the relay action, so 85 and 86 are likely connected correctly. Normally you connect 30 to your source of power (other than the relay coil power), ie back to the car's battery. Then you choose 87 or 87a, depending on whether you want the relay coil to turn the power on or off.

I don't understand why you have two connections to the "device?" 30 to battery power and 87 to the device. If you need polarity switching, a single one of these relays won't do it.

[tgreese]

Thinking about this some, it seems likely that you are replacing the switch action with the relay. If you remove 30 and 87, and touch them together, The window should move. Then if you connect your multimeter to terminals 30 and 87, and move the switch, the resistance should go to zero.

If the circuit passes these tests, and does not work when plugged together, there is a connector that's not plugging together right. If the tests fail, move back up the wiring until you find the fault.

[MilesTexas]

Thank you. I am running through these. Still having issues and decided to draw it out.

Forgive my terrible writing. Tried to keep the colors accurate to the image. When the switch is operated - the voltage goes to the wires labeled up or down. Based on the way the switch is pushed

[tgreese]

Looks like it should work. Do you have a multimeter? Can you unplug the relays?

Are you sure the switch is not grounding the motor, instead of sending power to it? Seems unlikely if the relays are clicking, but still a possibility. Or perhaps the switch is both connecting and reversing the polarity of the motor? In that case, one of the relays would click but the motor would get power and no ground. Might be worthwhile to characterize what the switch is doing, without the relays.

Failing that, first I would follow each wire and check it off on my diagram (maybe that's too obvious). Then I would unplug the relays and test each terminal to see if it does what I expect.

[dodgerammit]

First try disconnecting your factory ground wire(s) from the driver door master switch. There will be 4. Two for the door locks, the other 2 for the power windows. You can read up here where I mention them in passing: https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewto ... death+star

See what happens


Also, see the images near the bottom of this page here: https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewto ... trike+back

There is an internal copper connector that tie the switches together for the reverse polarity bit that may need removed to allow the other (all passenger) windows to work.

[tgreese]

Look here - https://oljeep.com/gw/elec/84_85/84_85_ ... Page15.jpg

Look at the motors. They go up or down depending on how they are connected. That is, up or down depends on polarity.

pwrwinddpdt (534 x 600).jpg

This is a momentary DPDT switch with center off. You can duplicate this action with your two SPDT relays.

pwrwind2relays (537 x 600).jpg

Note that both connections 87a will be connected to ground all the time, and you'll select up or down based on which relay you energize. You also MUST connect the motor leads to the usual INPUT side of the relays at connection 30.

[Thomas792]

I'm not the greatest at electrical wiring but I have made my own window controller much like what you are doing if not the same. I seem to remember that all 5 wires need to be connected. I don't have my info in front of me but this is how I remember wiring it - can confirm when I get home.

85 (+) coil feed (from switch wire 1)
86 (-) coil ground
87a (-) from battery (normally closed)
87 (+) from battery (normally open)
30 output to motor (to motor wire 1)

switch wire 1 and motor wire 1 would normally be connected if the relay device were not in the circuit. Repeat for relay 2 connected to wire 2.

When the window switch is in the "up" position one of the relays is energized and the little arm switches from normally closed to normally open and provides (+) to that side of the motor. The other side stays connected to ground and allows the power to flow.

When the window switch is in the "down" position the other relay is energized providing (+) with the first relay connected to ground and the power flows in the opposite direction.

I spent a long while designing and building my system and nearly a whole day testing it. Be fore warned that relays with diodes do not like to be connected backwards on the 85/86 terminals.

[MilesTexas]

You guys helped a ton. Main issue was 87A needed to be grounded and 30pin (red) should have been to device - not grabbing main power supply.

Everything else was pretty easy. Anyone who comes next, this set up was super easy. Couple 5pin relays from amazon, bag of weatherpack 2 pin connectors, and then some different electrical connectors.

I am adding the final set up for someone to copy. Very basic but that is the functional concept. As always, thanks for all of the help everyone!

[Thomas792]

Glad you got it working. I couldn't remember his name but now have "Serehill". He passed a few years ago but was making a reported very nice kit for the windows, door locks, windows.

https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19124