Its got the 4l60e trans, and as for the transfer case I would have no idea what to get since this is the first time ive messed with a 4wd car. Thats why I got you knowledgeable guys and the forum lolderf wrote:What are you doing for a transmission and/or transfer case? Are you going to stick with what you have or swap in something that comes with the 5.3?
The 5.3 came from a 2005 chevy Avalanche, when me and my dad got the engine there was no transfer case that came with it so ill assume its a from a 2wd truck. We already have as funny as it is, a 2005 avalanche and it works like a charm and gets done any off roading i've ever wanted to do just fine so i have no interest in taking the Waggy offroad and frankly I would just want to take out the 4wd to eliminate any problems, and I feel like that would maybe be cost effective. Could the danna 44 in the front just be left disconnected?derf wrote:Did the drivetrain come out of a 4wd or 2wd donor?
Thank for the good response its a 4wd trans, could I use it just for 2wd or does it need to be hooked up to a transfer case to work? sorry if that seems like a dumb question im just out of my element with these Jeeps. But god I love them nowderf wrote:Don't assume. The Avalanche came from the factory with both 2 and 4 wheel drive configurations.
A 2wd will have a cone shaped cover on the back where the rear driveshaft slip yoke slides in.
A 4wd will have an adapter with a round 6 bolt pattern bolted to the back of the transmission (which has a hex shaped 6 bolt layout).
If you have nothing bolted to the back of the transmission and just an output shaft sticking out, you need to measure how far the shaft sticks out to tell which one it was set up for. I think the long 2wd shaft sticks out 5" where the shorter 4wd shaft sticks out only a couple of inches.
Novak has a good page on the transmission: https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/t ... tic/4l60e/
This is a 4L60E with no 2wd or 4wd adapter bolted to the back:
This one is a 2wd with the cone shaped cover on the back:
Im going to swap the engine in first, but I plan on doing a 4 inch lift with 32 or 33 inch tires. With that in mind is there anything else I should get for the swap now? Also do you happen to know who made your motor motor mounts?Eastudio wrote:I did a ls swap 5.3 4l60e with a np241c last year this is my experience with my intention been daily driver and overlanding
I will say, the dana 44s with the original 3.31 will be fine if you stay on 29”s 30”s tires mine has 32”s and it is a little struggle Im looking to do 4.10 wear ratio
Cooling system is important need a new radiator, ether electric or original fan, If your wallet allows I recommend go with aluminum combo with electric dual speed
exhaust system recommend
start with 2.5” for each side to a 3” single
For fuel system
tank I went with a suburban 44 gallon, if you are not lifting the jeep I will say go with the bjs ls swap fuel pump for the original tank or the blazer tank and invest in new lines
This are the general considerations
Within those general systems there are many choices depending on what is your intended use for the jeep. I will say ls swap is worth it
There is good library of swaps in this forum with specific recommendations
Is always nice to see another wagoner on the street
Good luck
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The output shaft is different between the two. The swap is straightforward but involves a full rebuild of the transmission.The Wagg wrote:Thank for the good response its a 4wd trans, could I use it just for 2wd or does it need to be hooked up to a transfer case to work? sorry if that seems like a dumb question im just out of my element with these Jeeps. But god I love them now
Yikes, why does the transmission need to be rebuilt? If the car weren't to have 4wd at all would the transmission still need to be rebuilt?derf wrote:The output shaft is different between the two. The swap is straightforward but involves a full rebuild of the transmission.The Wagg wrote:Thank for the good response its a 4wd trans, could I use it just for 2wd or does it need to be hooked up to a transfer case to work? sorry if that seems like a dumb question im just out of my element with these Jeeps. But god I love them now
The Wagg wrote:Yikes, why does the transmission need to be rebuilt? If the car weren't to have 4wd at all would the transmission still need to be rebuilt?
This. Everything has to come apart to get the tail shaft out. Well, one bearing can stay in I think. But you have it basically 100% apart. Why not do a rebuild with fresh parts?babywag wrote:The output shaft is the last piece to come out of the trans. meaning it has to be 100% disassembled to swap a 2wd output shaft in there.
Doesn't HAVE to be rebuilt, but might as well since the labor is already being done.
Ok, if that's the case then I'm going to stick with 4wd, thanks for the help. How would the linkage between the gear selector and the 4l60 work? IS there a kit for it?derf wrote:The Wagg wrote:Yikes, why does the transmission need to be rebuilt? If the car weren't to have 4wd at all would the transmission still need to be rebuilt?This. Everything has to come apart to get the tail shaft out. Well, one bearing can stay in I think. But you have it basically 100% apart. Why not do a rebuild with fresh parts?babywag wrote:The output shaft is the last piece to come out of the trans. meaning it has to be 100% disassembled to swap a 2wd output shaft in there.
Doesn't HAVE to be rebuilt, but might as well since the labor is already being done.
If it's a 4x4 transmission in good working order, the easiest transfer case to bolt up to it would be a Chevy transfer case.
If you have a 70's wagoneer, you'd want to find a passenger side drop NP208 from an 80's truck/Blazer/Suburban. The last couple of years of the K5 Blazer changed over to the NP241 (a new generation derived from the 208) with a passenger side drop. As an alternative, you can probably find an NP203 on a 70's donor. Or even an NP205. But you have to make sure you get the 205 with the right input shaft.
If you have an 80's wagoneer, you'll want to find a drivers side drop NP241 from a truck/K5 Blazer/Suburban. As an alternative, there are a few all-wheel-drive and electric shift transfer cases depending on which donor you go with. But the easiest to get working is the manual shift NP241.
The change over from passenger side to driver side output happened in the late 80's/early 90's and was staggered in over 2-3 years.
You can get aftermarket parts to hook up the column shifter to the transmission. Lokar makes several kits that you can choose from. Though going from a 3 speed to a 4 speed means you're not able to shift all the way down to 1st gear as there aren't enough stops built into the column to select all gears.The Wagg wrote:Ok, if that's the case then I'm going to stick with 4wd, thanks for the help. How would the linkage between the gear selector and the 4l60 work? IS there a kit for it?