Low cost roof rack renew

[dodgerammit]

So, the cross bars on Radio Flyer's roof rack were showing their age. Badly.
The chrome was peeling. The exposed metal had rusted.
After 2 minutes with an orbital sander, I decided my endeavors would be better suited pursuing another method.


First, the old cross bars needed to come apart so I could source something to replace them.


I took a screw and used it as a punch to drive the dowel pin out of the threaded insert.


Using, some pliers, I pulled the pin the rest of the way out and securely stored it for later.


Then, the threaded inserts did not want to budge at all.
I didn't want to destroy them, since they are critical to holing the cross bars to the main rails.
I threaded the lock nut onto the insert completely for the best grip.
Then, I used some vice grips set to where they loosely fit around the diameter of the cross bar, but not over the lock nut.
Holding, the cross bar vertical with the insert end a couple inches off of the floor and the vice grips resting on the lock nut (and my steel toed boots), I used a hammer to drive out the insert.


Success!

[dodgerammit]

I placed the pin back with each insert.


Whatever replaced these bars needed to be rust proof. So, I was realistically limited to stainless or aluminum. I struck out in a quick search for stainless, but quickly sourced some aluminum.

The local Tractor Supply Company (TSC) Has mill stock available in it's hardware aisles. Some is mild steel. Some is aluminum.

The original cross bars are a smidge (I'm southern) above 3/4" outer diameter and the ID is just above 5/8". They are about 43 3/8" - 43 1/2" long.

The TSC had round mill aluminum tube that was 3/4" OD with 1/16" wall thickness. They came in 36" and 48" lengths.

I purchased two 48" long tubes for just under $15

Here they are compared to rusty originals


Next, I placed the aluminum stock parallel to the original bars and flushed one end, marking the other end to cut.


Made the cuts

[dodgerammit]

Marked and drilled the holes. A 1/8" bit works great. Drill through both sides.

Make sure each hole is the same direction as the hole on the opposite side. It is very easy for the bar to rotate while handling it.


Now, here comes a fun part. Getting those threaded plastic inserts into a slightly undersized bar.
First, I used a sander to bevel the edge of the side that went into the bar.
Then, I carefully lined up the inserts so the holes would line up with the holes I drilled in the aluminum.
Next, take a hammer and slowly tap the insert to start it. Make sure it is lined up, then finish driving it home.
Yes, it will shave a bit of plastic as you do this.

Start the dowel pin


Drive it into position


Install the other 3 inserts the same way.

[dodgerammit]

Reassemble the rack


Now, at this point you may note that there are a couple of differences.

First, the original cross bars changed from a round shape to an elliptical a couple of inches from the main rail.

I don't care about this difference. It doesn't bother me in the least. I'm not entering this Waggy in a concourse show. Most will never notice. If it bothers a purist, they can buy me a NOS rack. The rack is purely cosmetic to me. This is better than rusty cross bars.

Second, the original cross bars had a slight curvature to them.
I should have caught this sooner, knowing it would pose an issue with mounting.
You may want to go ahead and bow the new bars a bit to help with fitment.

I didn't, but still got the rack to line up, and the supports to sit flush against the roof.

Mounted pics:







Enjoy!

[ToolShed]

That's some great work! Looks great to me!

[ToolShed]

Now if I just had a roof rack to try it on.....

[66stepside]

Nice! How's the strength of the new compared to the old?


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[Tatsadasayago]

Nicely done! I would have to be looking for it to notice those aren't original. I suppose polishing the bars with some Mothers before installing would make them even more stealthy.
Great work and thanks for sharing.

[Skerrvydog]

I like it, I'll have to tag this for later. One of my cross bars is all bent out of shape.



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[dodgerammit]

Nice! How's the strength of the new compared to the old?


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I'd say the new bars are a bit weaker than original. You are going from steel to aluminum of about the same thickness, so aluminum naturally will be weaker. The rack is much lighter due to this, however.

That being said, my parents have a 96 Grand Cherokee, and those cross bars are flimsy as ****.
Have hauled a board or two and some pvc on them before.

I see these factory roof racks as merely cosmetic, and other than an occasional piece of lumber, I'd be hesitant to carry anything on them.

[dodgerammit]

Nicely done! I would have to be looking for it to notice those aren't original. I suppose polishing the bars with some Mothers before installing would make them even more stealthy.
Great work and thanks for sharing.

I plan on polishing all of the aluminum bits soon Now if there was only a source for aluminum rack posts....