Build Questions

[Willy D]

Hey Guys, I'm new to the "Build a Wagoneer" thing, lol, and I have a few questions I'm hoping someone or several someones can answer for me. I have an '88 Grand Wagoneer that is my project. I'm working on installing a mild lift (3") and am told that I have to drop the gas tank and skid plate to get to the front eye bolt on the driver's side rear spring. I have also read that this bolt is sometimes tack welded in place so removal of tank is not necessary. Does anyone know which way this might be on my particular beast? Also, I've been reading that the skid plate is what holds the tank in place, yet I've seen straps for sale for this truck. Again any ideas? And while on the subject of skid plates, can I run the truck without it (at least for a bit) if I have the straps on it or is this not a good idea? My skid plate is shot along with a good chunk of frame. I have a friend that is a heavy welder (train cars) that is going to help me with the frame replacement parts and installation. Not real thrilled with the idea of $400+ for a new skid plate, so may fabricate my own instead. Any help with these questions would be greatly appreciated. I'm gonna start working on it this weekend. Thanks in advanced and happy Jeepin'!

[Renodemona]

The tank should not be help up by the skid plate, it should have retaining straps. You can absolutely run without the skid plate, but I wouldn't go off road. It's not just rock protection but helps gravel and such not get tossed into fuel lines, vents, etc. I believe the eye bolt you are talking about should be welded, but on a 25-30 year old jeep who knows if it still is. Add in the mentioned frame rot and, well, I'd bet dropping the tank is in your future. If you are using the rough country springs, go for a nicer shock (at least on the rear). The cheapy ones that come with the kit don't help the bounce from the stiffer springs. What other plans do you have? Where are you located?

PICS PICS PICS!!!!

[Tatsadasayago]

You'll be wanting to drop the tank anyway and will likely get a downpour of junk when you do.

The 88 has a plastic fuel tank that lays on a bed of bagged insulation that is often thrashed and you'll need to replace it with some sort of rubber matting to prevent abrasion and holes.

[Willy D]

Thanks guys. Yeah the tank will be coming down just not at the same shop or time that I'm doing the lift in. I think I'm gonna fab something for a new skid plate. Don't want to shell out that much money when there's other things that need to be done. It's only a small lift for now. Will probably gain some more when I redo the body mounts. Hey, any ideas for carb replacement? I have the 2 barrel Motorcraft (i think). Float is toast so either rebuild or replace and I'd rather have a better carb than that one. Trying to keep it simple though.

[Tatsadasayago]

Your simplest, cheapest and least hassle choice on the carb is to rebuild it or replace with another. The Weber is a popular replacement but like the Holley 2bbl new ones aren't cheap and used ones are often trash. Changing over to a 4bbl involves more parts, work and cost which doesn't sound like you are ready for that.

The 2150 is very simple, reliable and off-road worthy if rebuilt and tuned properly.

[j20brett]

I wheel, what I would call some good stuff. Lots of rocks, off camber, steep inclines and declines. There are a few simple mods to make a 2150 nearly unstoppable.

[AwesomeJ10]

I wheel, what I would call some good stuff. Lots of rocks, off camber, steep inclines and declines. There are a few simple mods to make a 2150 nearly unstoppable.

What have you taken a grinder to it and made it into a wheel chock?

LOL

[Lumpskie]

FWIW, my 89 had a clip that held that bolt in place. I dropped my tank and saw it, realizing that I had wasted my time. You might try removing the bolt first. If it doesn't loosen, then you can always lower the tank while supporting it on a floor jack to get to that nut.

My two cents.

[will e]

Like Lumpskie said, there is a blind nut that holds it in place. Sometimes you get lucky. Try spraying PB blaster on the currently exposed part.

If it breaks loose you don't have to 'remove' the tank, you have to get it out of the way so that you can get a wrench up and on the nut. This still requires you to unbolt it all but don't feel like you have to completely remove the tank to get the job done.

I went with a holley truck avenger and like it.

[carnuck]

When I rolled my '73 J4000 on my driveway at the waterfall by my cabin I had to crawl back in to shut it off because it was still running. That's why 2100s are awesome down here!

[Willy D]

Ok, so Bolt did have a clip (it didn't matter). Still ended up dropping the tank. My skid plate is junk, so will be looking to deal with that soon. Not sure what I'm gonna do about it yet. For those of you playing along, an '88 can NOT be run without the skid plate unless you fabricate straps to hold it in place (which is what I did so that I could get it home). The straps go over the tank and hold it in place inside the skid plate. Then there is the frame rot. Have to replace a sizeable chunk, unfortunately, larger than the repair kit I have. Thanks for the ideas on carbs. That will be another thing I have to deal with soon. Oh well, it's keeping me out of trouble right? LOL