05 Wrangler trans rattle

[DC78FSJ]

I've got an 05 wrangler sport with the 4.0 engine and nsg370 6 speed manual. It's got 4 inches of lift and an Sye set up. Today on my may home the jeep started to rattle from the trans/transfer case area underneath.

It rattles with the clutch both in and out and the rattle matches the speed of the jeep. The clutch works fine and shifts with no problem. I checked the transfer case and its full of fluid. I jacked the rear up so and spun the tires. When in neutral there is no rattle, when I put it in first and had the clutch In and spun the tires the rattle sounds like its coming from the bell housing area of the trans.

I'm not sure if I should replace the clutch or not and this is my only running vehicle at the moment so I am trying to limit its down time with investigative diagnosing. And questions are welcome and ideas are much appreciated. Thanks

[Stuka]

It's most likely your rear output bearing on the t-case. Especially if you have that much lift without an SYE kit.


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[Stuka]

Skip my first post, didn't see the part on it not doing it when it's in neutral. NSG's do have some clutch issues. Do a search for NSG370 clutch rattle.


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[DC78FSJ]

I've been searching and can't seem to find anything that describes what's going on with my transmission. It's only making the rattle when the trans is in gear and the wheels are turning.

[lindel]

If the clutch isn't slipping, it's probably ok. The only caveat to that would be a bad spring or finger on the clutch/pressure plate. I'm guessing you've checked all the bushings, the track bars, etc?

[Stuka]

If it ONLY does it while moving, and only if the trans is in gear, it sounds like an intermediate shaft bearing or something. That only turns if the vehicle is in gear and moving.

Have you kept up on changing its fluid? They really are picky transmissions. Just had mine changed at 35k (Chrysler says to change it every 30k) and it made a noticeable difference in how smooth it is. They take a special fluid from mopar, so do not put gear lube or oil in them, it will burn them up.

[DC78FSJ]

I haven't changed the fluid in it. I'm thinking that I probably should change the fluid then and at least the bearings. Still debating on the clutch but if I have it all apart I should. Should I let it sit until I fix it or can I drive it?

[Stuka]

I haven't changed the fluid in it. I'm thinking that I probably should change the fluid then and at least the bearings. Still debating on the clutch but if I have it all apart I should. Should I let it sit until I fix it or can I drive it?

Guess it depends how bad the rattle is. If its only noticeable if you really listen close, then you may be able to drive it for the time being. If its really loud then I would probably avoid it.

And its always possible its something else besides bearings. But if you are going to open it up, take a close look and the synchros. They are bronze and have a tendency to wear faster than some others.

[DC78FSJ]

I'm probably going to have to open it up, it is loud so I'm not going to drive it. I'll try to pick up a new clutch and bearings today and try to take it apart tomorrow and see what's going on with it and swap in a new clutch and bearings

[DC78FSJ]

I got underneath it and started playing around. Figured out that its only the u joints in the front drive shaft. Swapped the, out and it's all better

[Stuka]

I got underneath it and started playing around. Figured out that its only the u joints in the front drive shaft. Swapped the, out and it's all better

Interesting that pushing the clutch in or out would effect that. Especially since the front shaft doesnt have any power being sent to it unless you are in 4wd.

But that is certainly a much cheaper fix!

[lindel]

Glad you got it fixed, and for so cheap, relatively speaking...

[DC78FSJ]

Me too. Everyone I talked to was saying that my throw out bearing went, I'm glad it didn't... Now back to working on my 79'... Hopefully