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I have a 90 Grand Wagoneer that cranks and runs great for about 10 miles then all the sudden dies and won't crank until it sits a while then the same thing all over.
Items I've recently replaced: Plugs, wires, fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition box and coil.
Anybody have any ideas as to the culprit?
When it dies, you are missing spark, fuel or air or a combination of those three.
Have you replaced the sock filter INSIDE the fuel tank? (You don't have to drop the tank, there is an access cover under the rear seat on the driver's side)
Have you verified spark when it dies?
How long does it need to sit before it starts up again?
You say you changed the ignition box, what brand was it. Have found that if its not Napa or Motorcraft, they just dont last. If its been resent enough, and you got a warranty, might try exchanging it.
I had a mechanic change the ignition box and check the things I put on last week. I don't know what brand it was but I can call him tomorrow. When it still wouldn't run long without dying I decided to replace the coil because it was relatively inexpensive and was something I could do.
The Wagon has been sitting for about 3 years and did have about 1/2 tank of old gas in it.
I will see if I can get access to the sock filter and if it's something I can do.
I'm trying to do as much for myself as I can but it may be time to bite the bullet and get a good mechanic on it.
I'm sure there are some women on here that could rebuild an engine in nothing flat but I'm at the end of my abilities
on this.
I really appreciate all the tips.
Last edited by doubled1 on Sun Feb 09, 2014 6:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I can't imagine vapor lock with temps in the 50s and 60s. But I suppose it COULD happen.
RE sitting, I was asking how long you have to let the truck sit until it starts up again! LOL!
X2 on checking the ignition brand. You can go out and pop the hood and look at the ignition box. It will have a name brand on it. And if it doesn't, that tells us something, too. ;- )
If you fold the back seat up against the front seats(the rubber strap on the pasanger side holds the seat in the up position) and pull the carpet up on the drivers side, there might be an access hole with rivets holding the cover on. Drill them out and replace them with screws, the top of the fuel tank is right under the panel. You can also check the rubber lines that connect the tank to the frame.
No name on the ignition box.
The mechanic that put it on was not the guy I have taken my rides to in the past. My regular guy was
slammed and I was anxious to get her on the road again so I took to someone I've never used before.
She cranks on the first try and idles great for a while but will eventually die and have to sit 10-15 min before she'll crank again. I drove her to work last week. It was 24° and she cranked right up and ran fine the 5 miles there but at lunch I drove about 2 miles ate lunch and on the way back to work she died.. After about 10 min I cranked her up and drove the rest of the way to work.
Today it was about 65°. So I replaced the coil drove it around the block, let it idle a bit after I got back. I was feeling very pleased with myself thinking I'd fixed the problem and she died on me. When I went out just now to look at the ignition box I wanted to see if she'd crank and sure enough first try she fired right up.
I will try to check the sock filter tomorrow.
I really appreciate the help. I love Jeeps but they can be frustrating. I also have a CJ5.
When it dies you or your mechanic need to test the pickup coil in the distributor, within your ten minute cool down window. Ohm meter on the purple and orange wires coming out of the distributor, must be between 400-600ohms. If it's outside of this, replace the pickup coil.
Have you adjusted the carburetor at all since you've had it? If the idle mixture is out of adjustment (too lean of a ratio, maybe?) when the choke opens up fully the engine could be getting too much air and not enough gas in the mixture. 10 minutes doesn't seem to me like enough time for the choke to cool off completely, but carbs can get pretty fussy sometimes, might be worth looking in to.
chevelleguy wrote:When it dies you or your mechanic need to test the pickup coil in the distributor, within your ten minute cool down window. Ohm meter on the purple and orange wires coming out of the distributor, must be between 400-600ohms. If it's outside of this, replace the pickup coil.
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OOOOOH!!!! That's right. I forgot about the pickup coil. I had one go out on me, too. Dead in the water. Called a rollback. Next day it fired right up. I replaced it and the problem was solved.
HINT: You can buy an ENTIRE distributor for about the same price as an individual pickup coil. Do it and pull the new pickup coil out and just replace that part. Saves you the headache of having to pull the distributor, worry about mis-matched distributor gears and retiming the engine.
hi I am bill just purchased 1990 grand wagoner ..I had same problem .the jeep had new control box fuel pump .distributor .alt. battery .fuel filter .air cleaner all installed by po. they gave up on project .I did not now this person .and new nothing about this jeep.i offer 2250.00 SOLD I PUCHASED FOR WINTER BEATER IN SNOW .left with jeep dies wait 5 min. go dies made it to my garge .I now these jeeps like the back of my hand .it took me 5 days to run down problem .it had a new fuel pump in the jeep po installed.front fuel line clamp loose .... rear tank fuel line NO CLAMP ON LINE .PROBLEM FIXED
If you're stalling out because of air/fuel leaks in the fuel line, you shouldn't have fuel in the carb bowl when it dies. You can take the six screws off the bowl cover plate and check to see if fuel is in the bowl when it dies. If you have fuel in the bowl, it seems unlikely that is your problem.
It sounds as if you may have a carb problem/leak causing it to run rich and "load up." A hint would be whether it completely cuts out, or slowly idles down before it stalls. If it slowly idles down, you have a carb that is loading up. Rather than spend hours/days/$$ trying to dial it back in, I'd declare it a total loss and buy a rebuilt unit (with a warranty) for $300.
1990 GW with HD towing package -- everything works! (today, anyway)
hi how are you doing with that 1990 grand wagoneer..i would look at coil mine started acting up again .i bought new coil clip harness that clips on coil . those new coil clips suck..put spade connectors on coil all fixed ..i think when engine gets hot coil clip expand and loose connection let cool down for 5 to 10 minutes and they contract and make connection .please get rid of that coil clip connector and put push on spade connectors .you will not be sorry