Money Badger is DONE! No, not really. You know better.

[scorge30]

What size is the Holley?

[REDONE]

Standard 600cfm 4160 from Pepboys, model number 80457S.

Got it all buttoned up and started it up to dink with the timing and idle speed, burp the coolant, check for leaks and heat up the oil for an oil change. Shut it down and....bummer.


What you can't see in this crummy pic that you can see in real life is the wisps of steam coming from my heater core! So I'm off the Vatozone to place my special order and to get a 3/4" double-dildo barb to bypass it while I swap it out.

All in all I think the new aspiration set up looks pretty darn good. I'm still working on my functional hood scoop with built in tach pod, still thinking about what to do for the air cleaner.

[Jagged]

Hey... The J20 w/ a 360 in my garage has the same Holley in it. We should compare notes some time. Your carb looks much shinier than mine though.

[REDONE]

haha! If you haven't noticed, I kinda got a thing for turd polishing.

Not saying the carb is a turd, I'm pretty happy with it, but I do make a lot of things that nobody will ever see look pretty, just look at my intake manifolds.

[jamesdart]

there was some article in fourwheeler mag with low tech old school vs hitech camping gadjets and the pic of your truck with the rack, generator and gas cans has me thinking of it. ill have to see if i can find it.

[jamesdart]

here http://www.fourwheeler.com/featuredvehi ... _red_neck/

[REDONE]

here http://www.fourwheeler.com/featuredvehi ... _red_neck/

Freekin Cappa ripped off my schtick!!! Next time I see him I'm gonna make him drink TWO bottles of mustard!

And he BETTER come to Ouray next year. Freekin JEEP came to Ouray, brought the mighty FC and the J12 and ate bacon wrapped jalapino poppers with us, why can't Johnny boy stop by instead of rippin' of my brilliance from the interwebs.



You can clearly see my hammock in this one

[Jagged]

He doesn't edit for or do much of anything for JP anymore, does he? Maybe he's too good for us dirty Jeep guys now.

[bigun]

He doesn't edit for or do much of anything for JP anymore, does he? Maybe he's too good for us dirty Jeep guys now.

He is now the editor of FourWheeler. Besides I get the feeling that Cappa is a internet wheeler only!

[Stuka]

Nah, Capps wheels. And he does care about jeeps. He just got a bad wrap among FSJ'ers because if the panel debacle.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[REDONE]

Maybe now that he's senior editor for Four Wheeler he can finally make it to Ouray. He can just claim to be going for the FJLuiser croud, since they crash our party every year.

[REDONE]

Just a quick, well, not so quick status update for the fellow membership and friends.

We are pretty resolute about moving to Kentucky this summer. The original target was early June, but as I suspected this proved to be too much of a challenge in the time/money ratio aspect. To be honest, that would put my chances of making it to Ouray much less favorable as well. Currently the target is July. Tentatively (don't go telling my boss!) I will finish work on July 5th, take off for Kentucky (targeting the Warsaw area, but anywhere between Cinci and L'ville works fine) with a u-haul behind the Suburban and hope to arrive by the 11th or 12th. We dump out the u-haul, get a good nights sleep and then Cristy can take me to the airport so I fly back to WA for the Money Badger! The morning of the 14th I start all over again with a week long pitstop in Ouray! If this board had a dancing banana smilie, you'd see it here.

So 2500 miles is a long way for 25 year old truck, and I'm talking about my trusty Captain Ameritruck (the burb) so most of my effort has been directed towards that the last few months. I've serviced everything I can possibly service; including new rear wheel bearings and seals, and all that's left before I put it back on the road is the headliner.But laying underneath it, every time I look out the garage I see this staring back in my face.


He's saying "HEY YOU GUY!!! MY SINCRO'S ARE WORN AND YOU PROMISED A FULL FLOATER BEFORE OURAY!!"

My trip last year was a blast, but I held back a lot worrying about the return trip. I couldn't afford a major breakdown in Ouray and I couldn't be late returning to WA due to Army obligations. This year I intend to have a little bit of time buffer, but more importantly I intend to be a little better equipped. I've taken care of my engine issues and have boned up on Holley tuning for altitude. My primary concern is the rear end. I know full well that a D44 can handle my 31s (and even 33s if the right deal comes along in time) just fine considering my driving style. What scares me about the stock rear axle is how often they fail at the wheel bearing ON THE HIGHWAY. With no warning either the axle slips the bearing and flies off still attached to the wheel, or the axle sheers right at the bearing. I saw it happen to Carnucks truck (before he owned it), and remember a thread on the motherboard where 10-15 people posted pics of the same. Flint knows what's up.

I saw three options for this, all are valid for certain circumstances, but I made my choice and I'll explain why even though I know many will dissagree.

The obvious choice is a D60 from a J20, BUT they don't exist when you want one, and if the stars align and one becomes available, it's too far or too expensive. On top of that, it would require swapping the front over to 8-lug and new tires/wheels which just adds to the cost of the axle and reworking the axle (bearings and possible gear change). All in all, when I crunched the numbers for this, using the J-20 D60s for sale that are way out of my area as a general price guide I was still looking at over $2k (remember the rule of "whatever you think it will cost, double it", this is before that rule takes effect). On top of that the only tangible strength I gain is in the full float aspect, while I double the weight and reduce the ground clearance, decrease the availability of replacement parts and increase said parts replacement costs. I think I wrote this option off pretty quick due to the price, but even then when I looked at the pluses and minuses it seemed like giving too much to gain what little I wanted.

For the last year, my preferred option was custom building my own 14FF. I had the plan to pick one up from a van, the really wide one. Then I'd pop the tubes out of the pumpkin, cut down the passenger side tube and weld it back in to take the drivers side shaft. Then I'd get a longer tube for the drivers side to take the passenger side shaft, giving me roughly 7" offset to the passenger side similar to the stock axle to clear the gas tank without stupid tall lift. All in all, this was a pipe dream. I wanted to do it to inspire q-trac guys to realize a 1-ton option for their trucks. As it came down to it, while shopping for 14FFs (and I found plenty, but they don't just fall out of the sky) I realized I don't have room for one. I get away with murder considering I live in an apt complex, but I can't have a garage AND a reserved spot and then park a car in the open parking so I can use my garage to build an axle for a month, especially when I share that garage with a guy who has nice cars. This got me to look at the drawbacks a little harder. I don't want to go bigger than 33"s because I love driving my truck everywhere all the time. Bigger tires cost more to replace and burn more gas. This would make the ground clearance loss due to the huge pumpkin a big deal. Also, the 14FF is stupid heavy and I have a 304. Add this to the same downsides as the D60 and the D60 starts to look a lot more appealing.

So I thought really long and really hard about what exactly I wanted from an axle upgrade.
1) I want to eliminate the D44 wheel bearing failure point.
2) I want a cheap, non-critical, easy to replace fuse in the driveline.
3) I want a locker.

My problem solving process is pretty simple. I come up with a possible solution, then I ask "Has this been done before?", if no I ask "why not?", and if so I ask "will the results meet my goal?". I came up with my possible solution to Want No.1, full floating the D44. I looked to see if it had been done before and it has, several different ways even! None of the ways was a direct instruction book for what I wanted though. They all revolve around putting front spindles on the rear axle but none of the ways it's been done that I found works for me. One way is to bolt the spindles (after turning down the pilot to fit where the wheel bearing used to be) right where the bearing retainers go. That's too flimsy for me. Another is an aluminum adapter a guy at pirate made that fits the bearing bore in the axle and has a pilot bore for the spindle, but my axle is wide enough, and I'd like it to be a little more sturdy and fewer pieces. I'm going to machine some new flanges, cut off the old ones and weld the new ones on. Surprisingly there are some definite pluses that go with this. First, disc brakes are pretty much automatic, but more importantly, Want No.2 came forth right quickly, in that I will have cheap lockout hubs as an easily accessed driveline fuse. In fact, I can carry one rotor/hub + spindle assembly from any 1/2ton straight axle Chevy as a spare and ALL FOUR corners are covered for spare parts! This also covers Want No.3, since lockers, even full carrier lockers for a D44 are about half the cost of a D60 or 14FF.

I've crunched the numbers that I can and I'm <$300 for everything EXCEPT...axle shafts.

That even includes an adjustable proportioning valve from Summit since I'll have disks in the back.

Now, back to the shafts, remember I live and work in the shadow of Boeing. There are machine shops all over the place. I talked with a shop with some rough measurements that will cut me shafts for $200-$250 a shaft in 4140 ChroMo. Once I do some math and get some better measurements, I'll call Dutchman and Moser to see if they can make what I want and get an estimate. But check this out , if I can get a hold of a lathe using my own cutters bars and bits, I can cut and join front axle stub shafts to rear axle shafts and weld them up to make shafts splined on both ends for the carrier and then the hub for about $75 a pop! I figure I'll buy one set and make one set. I'll test fit them both, but I'll run the homebrew ones until (if) they break and then swap in the custom ones. If the homebrews last a year then I'll swap in the custom shafts and keep the homebrews as spares.

At some point I need to cough up $240 for a T18 rebuild kit too though. If you caught it above, my synchros are just about shot.

[Jagged]

You know, I have a big redneck '75 J-20 sitting here doing nothing that I'm only interested in taking the 401 out of. We could talk if you still might be interested in those axles. Although, your full floater idea sounds intriguing.

[husker77]

Sounds like a good idea, especially when you figure in your wants and goals. I thought I seen a kit one time, but maybe that was for a 9"

[scorge30]

I have heard of D60/D44 hybrids before. Most I have seen are a D44 axle with D60 outers. Might be a lot of work, and could make things a little more complicated when you break something.

I think you would be better off doing like I intend to do and weld on a good stiff axle truss. There are some full float conversions around from Superior and Herm the Overdrive Guy but most of those are for CJ rear D44s. Most of the kits like the one from Superior give you the equivalent of a D44/D60 hybrid with D60 outers and 35 spline axles. This has been discussed some on the mother board.

Another option is to pull a D50 out of a wrecked late model Ford F350 or a Dodge 3500. I have seen someone take a Corp 14, chop off the outers and take a D50, chop its outers off and weld them to the Corp 14 making a steering front axle Corp 14. Stupidly heavy, but hella strong.

I have been looking for a HP D60 from the front of a mid 70s Ford F350 to swap into my the front of my Chero. I would like a little stiffer axles under my Chero, but I might just weld on trusses to my stock axles and call it good. I am not interested in running huge tires and my driving style does not cause a lot of breakage, so I could probably survive with the axles I have.

I mostly want to be able to run around on the old Forest Service roads here in Western WA, so I could probably survive with the stock axles. I would like to remove the vacuum disconnect in my front D44, and stiffen the axle some. I have a stupidly heavy custom front bumper soon to carry a Warn winch, which has accentuated my Saggy Waggy's nose droop. With the big heavy AMC 360 hanging over it and the heavy front bumper, I would like to reinforce the front D44 some.

[REDONE]

Sounds like a good idea, especially when you figure in your wants and goals. I thought I seen a kit one time, but maybe that was for a 9"

Thanks! I looked up the kits and they did make them for the D44, Warn and one other company made them but they are discontinued, 5 lug for baby jeeps and use proprietary spindles and hubs. I think I'm on the right track using front axle spindles and hubs just for parts availability and cost effectiveness.

I have heard of D60/D44 hybrids before. Most I have seen are a D44 axle with D60 outers. Might be a lot of work, and could make things a little more complicated when you break something.

I've factored that in. D60 stuff is more expensive and with my plan to use D44/10bolt front axle spindles, I'll have cheap ($30 a pop at picknpull, can be found cheaper I'm sure) lockout hubs as my driveline fuse to break before an axleshaft and hopefully u-joints. We'll see.

I trussed a 9.25" Chryco axle in a truck I used to race, but my concern with the stock D44 axle in my J10 is that they break shafts at the wheel bearing. They don't do it when you beat on them either, they do it on the road when you least expect it! I'm a pretty mild wheeler in my J-10. I go slow and look for easy lines, but if ever I start thinking of jumping it like I used to do in my race trucks, I'll definitely be trussing the axles!

I also picked up a locker today!

[REDONE]

You know, I have a big redneck '75 J-20 sitting here doing nothing that I'm only interested in taking the 401 out of. We could talk if you still might be interested in those axles. Although, your full floater idea sounds intriguing.

Haha! At this point I've pretty much talked myself out of a 3/4 or 1 ton axle. Too much peripheral stuff like swapping the front to 8 lug, getting new wheels and tires, possibly new driveshafts, etc. All way too much for 33"s and that's all the bigger I want to go at this point.

Not this saturday but next I intent to hit up Pick n' Pull for outers and experiment shafts. If you want to swing by THIS saturday, you might can help me yank my transmission.

[Clean Racing]

Hey, I dont want to throw a wrench in your plans... But.. I have a 82 J20, that I am building, and well have no urgent need for the original D60, D44 or 8 lug wheels.. Im up in Bellingham, so kinda close.. I have a 10.5 sterling and Dana 60 front to replace them..

[Jagged]

Haha! At this point I've pretty much talked myself out of a 3/4 or 1 ton axle. Too much peripheral stuff like swapping the front to 8 lug, getting new wheels and tires, possibly new driveshafts, etc. All way too much for 33"s and that's all the bigger I want to go at this point.

Not this saturday but next I intent to hit up Pick n' Pull for outers and experiment shafts. If you want to swing by THIS saturday, you might can help me yank my transmission.

Sorry, I can't this weekend. I actually just went and picked up my replacement transmission for my '05 Grand Cherokee. So I have to do that. Stupid modern things.

[Jerry Blair]

I made my own full floater rear using D60 outers on a Ford 9 inch in my yj. Badlands offroad made my custom shafts back when they had their machine shop. It held up great with my 37s and 5.0v8. I had a friend who built a ff D44 using stock CJ front spindles and hubs. The studded 5 bolt hubs were not up to the stresses of a locked rear application. I think the FSJ or GM hub would work fine, especially if you used a drive slug.

I also narrowed the long side of my front D60 in the YJ. I cut the axle shaft with a chop saw, ground a taper with a handheld grinder and then mig welded it back together using c-clamps and angle iron to keep it straight, It was supposed to be temporary but after a year and a half of wheeling it was still working great when I sold the axle.

Sounds to me like your plan will work fine. I only question if you might get equal reliability results for the same money and less work by installing aftermarket axle shafts?