will e wrote:Ah, the old locker question and which axle to put it in.
There is an ongoing debate on which axle is 'better' to have a locker.
There is also an agreement that if you can have a locker on both axles that is better than just one locker on either axle.
In the rear axle you can put any kind of locker you want. An 'always' locked rear axle will cause some weirdness around corners and snow but many people have done it and say it is very manageable. I have not. An automatic locker (aussie, detriot, etc) will also work well in a rear axle. They will try to let the rear tires turn corners at different speeds. Some people like the 'always' locked over the 'automatic' locker because it is more predictable. Others like the 'automatic' locker because if the ability to differentiate the rear wheel speeds. There are several types of automatic lockers to choose from, especially for a d44. There is also a 'limited slip' which is almost a locker. They typically use clutch plates to try to keep the rear wheels at the same speed but allow the differentiation around corners. But unlike the other types of lockers they can also let the wheel with the most traction slip. Also, the clutches wear out. And finally the selectable locker allows you to select if it is open and operating like a normal rear axle or 'locked' where the two axles will spin at the same speed. In my opinion the selectable lockers are the best choice but they come at a premium price. They require some kind of operation (cable, electric, air) and these systems add to the complexity and can break. (When they do break it is almost always in the 'open' position). You also have to remember to turn them on/off.
The front axle can also be fitted with any of the types mentioned above. The complicating factor is what kind of transfer case you have and how you use it. As mentioned earlier in this thread different transfer cases can have any combination of 2wd, part time 4wd or full time 4wd. When in 'low' range most transfer cases will be in 'full time 4wd low'. So the first consideration is how do you want your front locker to act when in full time 4wd? A 'always locked' or 'automatic' will tend to pull the wheel straight and lessen your turning radius. I run an Aussie in my d44 up front and can totally tell when I am in full time 4wd. On the trails it's not too bad but it does take a little getting used to. The NEXT consideration is how do you want the your front locker to act when you are in 'part time 4wd'. The difference between how it acts on the trail between full time and part time won't be noticeable. But 'part time' 4wd can be used on the street since the transfer case will allow the front/rear axles to spin at slightly different speeds which is useful around corners. A 'part time' transfer case in 'part time' operation will have some very unusual driving characteristics when turning with an 'always locked' front axle. This will also be true with a 'automatic' locker up front. The 'always locked' is going to try really hard to make the front tires turn at the same speed. There are some folks who say this isn't that bad. An 'automatic' locker will also try to make the front tires turn at the same while turning and may tend to act weird as it tries to allow some slippage. It's basically a fight between the traction your tires have, the difference in speed, the kind of automatic locker and if you are accelerating, coasting or slowing down as you turn. In low traction street situations this can get really tricky (rain, ice, snow). The axle is trying to spin the tires at the same speed and it can overcome the traction the tires have. results will be unpredictable. It is generally not recommended to have a 'always locked' or 'automatic ' locker on the front axle if you plan on being in 4wd on the street. There are some folks who will say it is okay. I have never tried it so I don't speak from personal experience.
My jeep had a np208. My options were 2wd, full time 4wd high, full time 4wd low. There was no option to drive in 4wd on the pavement. I live in AZ so trail driving on ice/snow was very limited. I put the aussie up front and it was fine. In 2wd, even with the hubs locked, you did not know it was up there.
If I was you I would get the aussie and put it in the rear axle. You have an np229 case right? (2wd, 4pt, 4 full time). You will get the added benefits of a locker and your drivability will not be compromised.
I know that this is a long post to quote, but it will help put my response in perspective. From my signature line, you can see how my truck is modified, specifically the Eaton E-lockers in both diffs. Yes, they are more expensive, but the benefit of driving normally on dry street and having the ability to lock all four together in mud/rocks/deep snow is worth it to me. Notice I didn't mention ice--any locker on ice is tricky.
If you should log onto
www.cfsjc.com forums as a guest, open "Land Use Issues," scroll down and click on " Workday May 18," select pg 2, scroll to post #17 and find a video with "Rod making Sawmill look easy," you can see the lockers in action. At the start, I attack in 2 wheel HI and get nowhere--you can hear the rear tire(s) spinning and my buddies hollering instructions. During the pause, I'm finding 4LO and pushing locker buttons on the dash. Then I simply DRIVE up the muddy, rocky trail without even spinning a wheel. Think about it--going from being dead on the trail to not even spinning a wheel. At the end of the ride, I drive home--unlocked of course--without a click, a grind, nor a bind. That's why I spent the big bucks.
Selectable lockers are well worth the money from my standpoint.
'73 J4000 'WOOD GO' 360, 2100 MC, T-18, D-20, 60-2 rear, D-44 closed knuckle front with Warn lock-o-Matics, Eaton E-lockers both, Pertronix module, AC, PS, Hydro-boost, AirLift bags front and rear, 33x15 Goodyear MTR's, Pacer 15x8 aluminum Bullet Holes, Summit line lock, 3rd brake light, tilt column from '77 Firebird, 12000 MileMarker on cradle, hitch receiver on both ends
HOLY OLD THREADS BATMAN! 