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I replaced the door weather strips on my J-20 now the doors do not close. There is a large gap to the rear of the cab panel. I don't understand since they were fine with the old ones. Are the aftermarket pieces too thick?
1st question are your "new" seals the molded style or after market bulk style seals
if they are the latter they dont always fit good in the corner radius areas as the molded ones do
2nd the old seals have decades of compression and harding ,when i replace my seals the doors were hard to close but as
they took set 2-3 weeks in the sun they closed much better and now after several months the close tight no wind noise and no rattles, thats what i ran into, but i went CHEAP and bought the bulk seal 1st and had huge problems, and then bought the molded seals albeit they were tight at 1st, im glad i went with the 2nd choice which should have been the 1st choice, again thats what i ran into, hope this helps answer your question
no help here unfortunately....I've tried both types of seals (molded and not) on my 76 Chief and Its been 2 years and they still are a pain to close the doors. My plan this year is to custom something up with a different style of seal
watch my video i made on how to fix this, its pretty easy mid way through the video i explain how.. You take a mallet or hammer and smack those lips the seal sits on back, the further back you push those lips the further back the seal goes. the more room you have to close the door. Just make sure its even so you dont have leaks in certain spots you push too far back. Later on as the door seals squish you can always hammer them foward if you want to get a "better" seal but mind you it will cause the door to be harder to close again. Mine after i did this i still had to slam the door but only needed 1 hand to do it, then a week later it closes normally once they compressed.
You dont need to buy thee 150$ overpriced door seals
Adjust the door latch pin, as its probably only catching on the first notch, with the added bulk of the new seals. As the door holds pressure against the new seals and the two pieces form together, you can adjust the pin again to snug it up when/if needed.
'81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
'84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), Edelbrock clone 1406, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified
You can make the aftermarket generic weatherstrip work. BTDT. You'll need to adjust the door striker, and use more force when you close the doors. Works ok though. I'm ok trading off a harder door closure for not leaking.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.