I’m willing to just buy new hubs given the driver side is also a bit finicky. They are, to my understanding, not Mile Marker hubs however; they are a cousin or variants of these, as you can see how Lock and Free are both positioned, and the font used. I haven’t been able to find any Mile Marker branded hubs, old or new, that have short-action free and lock, or use this font. So I’ll get the ones linked, unless anyone might suggest better.tgreese wrote: ↑Tue Feb 13, 2024 10:36 am Mmm. If you want try and revive the right locking hub, suggest you remove the parts, get a pan and a gallon of paint thinner and clean the grease. Then put it back together with a light coating of grease (ie white lithium in a spray can) and see if it works. Dunno, seems more likely to me the hub is broken not stuck, and the packing with grease was a repair attempt or to keep it quiet.
If it were mine, I would buy some Warns and replace both. I've had to buy new locking hubs for my CJ-6 and my J20. Both came to me with one of the hubs broken. No parts are available today.
If you have a working Quadratrac, any locking hubs could ruin the transfer case, if not from you from others via mischief or ignorance.
Assuming these are Mile Marker hubs, they still sell them, The installation instructions are online. You might gain some insight on how they are installed etc.
Took a video of the process - came back with 1.75” from chain to tc surface - but I may have read the measurements wrong. Is less than 2.21” from the tc surface good or bad? I’m using this guy’s method here since the TSM doesn’t have a method without the specialty tool, and as stated in my video, I thought my measurement meant it was bad, but based on his recap, it sounds like it’s good, if not unusually tight.OldFarmTruck22 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 13, 2024 1:41 pm Here's a question for ya: Have you checked how much play you have in the transfer case inner drive chain? It's not a belt, it's a chain. If there is more than 1/2" upper deflection, you may as well replace that chain, it's too much play. Once you are in there you can confirm whether you have a part-time kit installed.
10-4. I’ve got a screwdriver long enough to do so that I can use later this evening or tomorrow. Not sure if I have the strength or not, we’ll see and I’ll report backOldFarmTruck22 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 14, 2024 1:08 pm That is not the way I measure 'play' in that chain. I use a small flashlight and a screwdriver or punch small enough to fit up through the access hole. I put the screwdriver up to the chain 90 degrees to the access hole as best I can, JUST until it touches the chain at rest, make a mark on the screwdriver blade flush with the outside of the case. Then press up on the screwdriver HARD until I have pushed all the play out of the chain in an upward direction, again as 90 degrees to the access hole as possible. When it will move no further UP, make another mark on the screwdriver blade flush with the outside of the case. The difference between those two marks is the amount of 'play' roughly in your chain.
Already removed last year, looked okay at the time. The good news is, the driveshaft and axle do in fact lock using the drivers-side hub, so the current assumption is that - bare minimum - the passenger-side hub is broken. New Warn hubs are delivering today; I'll try tackling it this weekend. Going to use this video as a point of reference, unless there's a better one someone knows of.Srdayflyer wrote: ↑Mon Feb 19, 2024 9:18 pm i have never seen the front drive shaft from the t.c. spin so freely, with the hubs locked so should the drive shaft be unable to turn unless the wheels are off the ground then the wheels would turn with the drive shaft rotation have you pulled the front pumpkin cover and taken a look see to maake sure the pinion and ring gears are ok, i had a cj7 i boufht second party original owner never locked the hubs or engaged the t.c. , within a month the front end went out, the ring gear sat so long that the oil drained off and the gear teeth un lubricated were so rusted that when i started using 4x4 mode the gears ate themselves up, i would take a look, the most it will cost is a tube of rtv and 80-90 wt gear oil and then you can cross that off the list , imo
You weren’t kidding, that was 15 mins max for one, and most of that was cleaning out the old grease.tgreese wrote: ↑Tue Feb 20, 2024 10:25 am Well, installing Warn hubs is a super-easy job. Waiting through an instructional video is a waste of time IMO. Just follow the instructions included and bolt them on. Reuse the snap ring on the end of the axle if it's present, item C above. Stick a bolt into the axle end and pull out to expose the snap ring groove, as needed.
Got it. Someone’s lending some aid over on IFSJA, so I’ll follow along there for now. In the meantime, turns out I wasn’t a complete idiot, just a partial one: Had saved this after all, was just tucked away in the shed:tgreese wrote: ↑Thu Feb 22, 2024 2:35 pm If you have an indicator light, it should change with the setting. Regardless of the click.
The vacuum diaphragms are known to fail. If your MityVac is not leaking, the diaphragm should hold air, I'd think. Looks like BJ's has a replacement available ($$) - expensive enough that I'd try to fit a cable control.
Same caveat - no personal experience. I've worked around these cases but never owned one.