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hello i need to know if the 360 spacer between engine and trans has a top and a bottom for alignement?because i can't find my problem:new clutch kit,new synchro rings,pedal free play at 5/8 inch,and i can't shift into gear when engine is on,but if it's off the shift is smooth with all the gears,i understand nothing,thank you

Looking at the parts book, there's a listing but no picture. Only Wagoneers and Cherokees with the T-17x and V8 used this part, thus there are not many examples to look at.

Upside down seems unlikely to me. The V8 does use a different bell housing from the six.

Did you actually check the clutch to see how much distance the plate has from the flywheel.

no,but it's a new clutch kit,and it's difficult to check now,it's installed,there is a hard point just before pedal touch the floor,the clutch can't disengaged fully,i change the full kit because before with the old clutch it was the same problem

tgreese wrote: ↑Wed Jan 31, 2024 9:03 am Upside down seems unlikely to me. The V8 does use a different bell housing from the six.

What part of the bell is different? The engine side bolt pattern is identical. The transmission housing itself is the same, only the input shaft length is different.

nico wrote: ↑Wed Jan 31, 2024 8:34 am hello i need to know if the 360 spacer between engine and trans has a top and a bottom for alignement?because i can't find my problem:new clutch kit,new synchro rings,pedal free play at 5/8 inch,and i can't shift into gear when engine is on,but if it's off the shift is smooth with all the gears,i understand nothing,thank you

I don't think the spacer can be installed upside down as the input shaft is not centered in the spacer, its offset to the top.

However, I don't think that's the issue.

To me, it sounds like the clutch is not disengaging. With it being mechanical linkage, its going to need to be adjusted for the new clutch, which is likely much thicker than the old one it replaced. I know you said there is 5/8" of pedal play, but there are two adjustments. The pedal side rod, and the rod from the bellcrank to the clutch arm.

It is also possible that the input shaft cannot freespin in the pilot bushing. Was the pilot bushing replaced? And was it test fit onto the tip of the input shaft to be sure it would allow it to spin freely?

hello and thank you,the same problem was here before i change the clutch kit because i think the clutch was old and used,and in first the through out bearing,when i pull off the old clutch kit i saw it was a 10,5 instead of 11" for 1982 360,and the tob don't match well with the fork,so i change every parts,and the problem is still here,i think the adapter spacer is not in his place correctly,because i pull off and install another time,and before i can drive the car with hard shifting,but now it's impossible to shift a gear when engine turn,but very easy when engine off!!!

Sounds like the throw distance of the throw out bearing is too far away from the pressure plate. As suggested above, need to measure your input shaft to be sure it is engaged in the pilot bushing correctly, and your clutch fork is engaging correctly. Do you have an inspection plate you can take off to see the clutch function? If not you might poke an inspection camera through next to the rubber boot of the fork, and see what is going on in there.

the input shaft is in place or i can't bolt the spacer and trans together with bell,i don't understand the hard point of the pedal just before the floor

That might be the point your throw out bearing engages the pressure plate, which should be engaging at the 5/8" of free play on your pedal. You need to get something in there to get eyes on it, while someone else engages the clutch, and you can see it function.

i don't think so,because the pedal has a smooth travel for to engage the pressure plate until this hard point begin who is impossible to go far,very pressure like i force against something!maybe the spacer is not aligne between the bell and gearbox?

Did you take any pictures of your work? I'd guess it's something like - the wrong parts - or it was assembled wrong.

As mentioned above, the clutch pedal should travel with little resistance for a few cm, then the release bearing contacts the fingers of the clutch cover. Then another ca 15-20 cm of travel with strong resistance as the springs in the clutch cover are compressed and the clutch disk is released. At no place should the clutch pedal stop solidly and completely, until the pedal contacts the floor.

i understand that you say but before my work i had the same problem when i bought the jeep,so without my new parts and my work,i have 5/8 freeplay,then 15-20 cm with resistance,then 3cm very hard resistance,impossible before touch the floor

Sorry if I missed your response regarding one of my questions, but did you replace the pilot bushing? And did you verify the pilot bushing was able to spin freely over the tip of the input shaft? If the input shaft doesn't spin inside the pilot bushing, it will always be spinning with the engine. Pushing in the clutch will have no impact.

it'ok sir don't worry,no i keep the same pilot,it is in good shape and i think it's spin freely like before(i repeat the problem was before my work)but when i bought the car the bell was bolted JUST with 2 bolts instead of 6,i think it s for the bell runout!next step try to check the mialignement of the spacer adapter(this is the only part i put maybe in not perfect place and need an adjustment?

Stuka wrote: ↑Thu Feb 01, 2024 7:49 am

tgreese wrote: ↑Wed Jan 31, 2024 9:03 am Upside down seems unlikely to me. The V8 does use a different bell housing from the six.

What part of the bell is different? The engine side bolt pattern is identical. The transmission housing itself is the same, only the input shaft length is different.

...

Just a different part number. There is some detail (unknown to me) that is different. I expect the new aftermarket T-150/T-176 bell sold for the CJ would work.

i think differents parts are just clutch link from pedal to fork(upper push rod,bellcrank,adjusting nut)other are the same

maybe i find the problem,i saw the fork hit the bell where the boot is installed and this is the hard point and the clutch can't disengaged!but i don't understand why?

Hmm, if the clutch arm is moving that far, as the clutch acts like it is still engaged, I can only think of three things.

1: Wrong release bearing. If the depth is wrong, it may not allow the clutch to fully be disengaged.
2: As I noted above, the snout of the input shaft is too large for the pilot pushing, and is not able to freely spin.
3: The clutch is defective.

thank you for answer,the old and new release bearing are different and my problem is the same,the snout is ok because this is the old one and i can put the T176 into the bell,and the clutch is new,i think maybe a bad fork(damage)!

Or the pilot ball under the fork is too low