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I'm trying to replace vac lines going to back of my emergency switch in glove box. I've burned up the internet with no luck looking for a way to access back of that switch panel. I realize I can remove the knob by accessing the scew on the bottom but I don't know if that black disc that the switch sits on will just pull out after removing plastic knob so I can get to the back to attach new vac lines. My glve box is in great shape so I would prefer not to have to mess that up to get it. Anybody been down this road?
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No personal experience; this picture shows the switch with a design like your typical radio volume control:
QT_Eswitch.png
This is from the Jubilee Jeeps Quadratrac page.
The knob is held on with a set screw, and the switch is secured with a nut and lock washer. The black bezel could be on top of the nut or behind it; shouldn't matter. I'd think you could remove the knob and nut and pull the switch out from behind. Then replace your hoses leaving some extra length, and put the switch back.
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Thanks for that. I saw this diagram in the FSM but didn't see the bezel so I wasn't sure. One way to find out for sure. I'll post after I give it a try for future inquirers.
I believe the bezel does not move which makes me think that the washer and nut are to the switch side of the bezel.
Yep, confirmed with Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hyMhVFJYROs
The older FSJ had the QT knob on the side as seen on the diagram above.
I believe that you can remove the set screw either on the side of the tang either with the line or the other side to face the hole on the black bezel as seen in the picture below
QTknobRM.png
the trick is that upon removal the switch unit behind may slip behind the glove box
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Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
The best thing is to remove the glovebox liner. Then the whole world opens up to you. Check other posts on here for the CORRECT way to route the vacuum lines, it's critical for this switch and your E-Drive to work correctly. I believe I have posted an in depth tutorial on this switch and the routing of vacuum lines to the T-case. Also very important to have the correct vacuum line from the manifold to the cannister on the firewall, then to the center nipple on this switch.
By now your rubber vacuum lines are probably sticky and leaking. This would be a great time to run all new vacuum lines from this switch to the T-case and the ball on the firewall.