ntsqd's '71 Wagon

[devildog80]

Let those tubes hang out like that, as you will get a tic of cooling with them too. Unless you wanted to run them back & forth across in the open area to the right, directly in front of the radiator? Personally would have a larger cooling coil, that would mount across on each side of the core support, instead of just one side......but just my $.02.

[ntsqd]

I don't like them hanging out in space so much. They don't look very tidy and I know what vibration will do to them in the long run. That's a disaster I want to avoid. It's too danged much work to get the grill off to get to them. If I can map out how, I'd like to run them a little tighter to the cooler and support structure so that I can use Adel clamps or something to snub any vibration. I am using dead soft AL tubing for these systems exactly for the added cooling benefit. Because of the planned re-power I've decided to run the trans cooler tubes on the frame rail rather than along the engine and trans so that I only need to make new hoses that jump from the trans to the frame. I'll be making those tubes from the same tubing for the added cooling benefit.

Can't really see it in the pic, but I rolled a bead, like race car AL interior panel beads, in the lower leg of the inboard mount and I am amazed at how much stiffer it made that part. First time that I've done something like that, but it won't be the last time.

[Yeller]

I keep saying I’m going to build lighter brackets and bead roll them and flare the edges, it’s not like I don’t have the equipment….. but time usually gets me….

[ntsqd]

That is the fundamental problem. It is easy and fast to build heavy brackets. Lightweight brackets take 4X the time to design and make. If you don't get stuck in Analysis Paralysis..... If you do, then factor that by at least 3!

[Yeller]

Yep, use a lot of 1” 11ga strap, drill and tap screws, and 1/4-20’s. When a nice piece of .063 aluminum with some bends, rolled beads and flares would look better, be lighter. Bout the only sheet metal forming tool not in the shop is a planishing hammer, and always on the look out for one of those at the right price.

[ntsqd]

I've managed to find one Dana D44 4.27 ring & pinion and have another one that is supposed to be also Dana made on the way. Still a month or more out on getting them installed.

[ntsqd]

Minor updates:

Trans cooling plumbing: It is complete. Not finished as I've yet to decide on exactly how I'm going to satisfy my CDO angst about those tubes mentioned above, as far as the trans cooler is concerned it's driveable again. I placed two sheet metal brackets on the inside face of the PS frame rail. Those have two each -6AN bulkhead unions in them, with Ø3/8" AL tubing running between them. I used trans cooler rubber hose with Push-Lock/Barb-tite type hose ends for a hose-clamp free install. 4 hoses, two that jump from the core support to the frame, and two that jump from the frame to the trans itself. My self-imposed rule is hose to jump from two structures connected by rubber (Engine Mounts, Body Mounts), but metal tubing can be used while only attached to one piece of structure.

4.27 gears: I have one set of Dana mfg'd gears and found a second set on ebay. Bought them the first of this month. Today I realized that they should have shown up by now, so I made contact with the seller. He's claiming an error on Fed Ex's part got them sent to the wrong place, but that they had been sent back and they should be properly labeled to be sent Overnight out no later than tomorrow. I hope so.

Battery Tray: As the Wagon came to me it had a plastic battery tray bolted in the stock location, at the weird angle of the stock location. I'm in favor of something that can't rust being used for the tray, but the hold-down J bolts also attached to it and I'm not good with that! I designed a generic replacement tray and had it made from 304 SS. In looking things over I can not see why Jeep placed the battery at that angle. It would take a pretty extreme articulation for the RF tire to get into that part of the fender liner, and another ~1.5" really wouldn't change things. So I've started to notch the fender liner to 'Square up' the battery. In the process I'll gain some room next to /near the radiator for the coolant reservoir.

I'll see about getting some pics of all of this.....