drier/filter pressure switch question

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Topic author
letank
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drier/filter pressure switch question

Post by letank »

Some drier/filters have a provision for installing the pressure switch on the drier/filter housing, unfortunately it seems hard to find the exact infos either on the VA site of their ebay vendors

The various hose kits such as VA 31700-VBD has the Parker drier #085809-00
Parker.png
or the VA 547004 has their own branded VA drier.
VA.png
Any hints would be welcome, or may be add another connector to install the pressure switch online as the OE installation, I was trying to avoid another potential leakage!

Thank you

Post Edit: then you have male and female pressure switch, the one on the drier body is a male pressure switch
VAbinary.png
and the one on the hose fitting is a female pressure switch
VATrinary.png
, this one is a trinary, but these are examples
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Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)

sonoraed
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Re: drier/filter pressure switch question

Post by sonoraed »

if you have a factory air system the drier has no port for a binary/trinary, you could fabricate brackets for an aftermarket drier (both are about the same size 8"x2.5") w/switch port and mount it in the oem location, as you pointed could cut the #6 liquid line and crimp an inline fitting w/ switch port.
I rarely ever use a binary and install a trinary switch even if there is no electric fan at the time so in the future fan could be added otherwise you have to recover the refrigerant and reinstall.
the Binary is wired between the ac thermostat and compressor clutch and shut clutch off if high side pressure drops below 28 lbs psi or if high side gets to 400 lbs psi, hopefully saving the compressor
The trinary functions the same as the binary and adds a third circuit that controls an electric fan relay, turns on fan at 250 lbs psi and off at 175 lbs.
Hope this helps if you want to go deeper let me know.

Theodore
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Re: drier/filter pressure switch question

Post by Theodore »

Hey, letank, I got my stuff from jeepAir.com/coldhose.com - they’re sister companies; tech support is great. Re: the binary switch: I went with the factory type installation & placed it on the passenger fender to catch the factory electrical connection.

For the condenser lines, I got a couple VintageAir u-bend-em hardlines from Summit Racing & a tubing bender to plumb it in.

Pix of my under hood:
Image
Image
1990 Grand Wagoneer - "Theodore" - AMC 360, fuel-injected, TF727, NP229 - Sand Metallic - restoring to stock - Build Thread

Topic author
letank
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Location: SF bay area

Re: drier/filter pressure switch question

Post by letank »

Ed and Theodore, thank you.

Yes, I was thinking of installing the trinary, I have some old stock fans from previous projects.

Thank you for the pictures.

Ha, ha, it never stops, I need to pull the alternator bracket to install the compressor bracket bolts... which means potential water pump seapage... trying to avoid pulling the radiator... which I suspect might need to be swayed to install the condenser retaining hardware
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)

Theodore
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Re: drier/filter pressure switch question

Post by Theodore »

Not sure on having to pull the radiator; I did a mega project last summer, where I swapped the water pump & a/c all at once, so I had the accessories, radiator, condenser, & grill out when I did the condenser.
1990 Grand Wagoneer - "Theodore" - AMC 360, fuel-injected, TF727, NP229 - Sand Metallic - restoring to stock - Build Thread
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HeavyMetalThunder_81
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Re: drier/filter pressure switch question

Post by HeavyMetalThunder_81 »

Unfortunately I think the condenser brackets are bolted to the core support, sandwiched in-between the radiator and core support. I don't remember if you can unbolt the factory condenser from it's brackets or not.
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Theodore
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Re: drier/filter pressure switch question

Post by Theodore »

HeavyMetalThunder_81 wrote: Wed Jun 21, 2023 12:31 am Unfortunately I think the condenser brackets are bolted to the core support, sandwiched in-between the radiator and core support. I don't remember if you can unbolt the factory condenser from it's brackets or not.
You're correct re: having to remove the radiator; i went back thru pictures & saw where the condenser mounting bolts are on the inside of the core support. Brackets were welded on both the original & the replacement.

HAve been on vacation this week & finally was able to catch up my Build Thread, including A/C installation with a parts list.

Build Thread - A/C refresh post: viewtopic.php?p=222866#p222866

Here's a pic of how the condenser mounts:
Image

And a pic of the A/C connections for receiver/drier & condenser up-front: I mounted my receiver/drier as close to factory position as i could get it, which provided decent space for making the connections. Not sure there's room for a binary switch as i have it; sliding it to the left would give room for the switch, but would be tight for making the connections, plus you'd have to extend the binary switch wiring.
Image

Looking at Jeepair.com, i did see that they carry receiver/driers like what you're talking about:
https://jeepair.com/collections/accumulator-driers
1990 Grand Wagoneer - "Theodore" - AMC 360, fuel-injected, TF727, NP229 - Sand Metallic - restoring to stock - Build Thread

Topic author
letank
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Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2012 9:16 pm
Location: SF bay area

Re: drier/filter pressure switch question

Post by letank »

thank you for posting the picts.

I removed the condenser brackets, but it is not possible because we are using the largest possible size... when the condenser is laid, there is no room to slide the brackets... unless using zip ties...

Still collecting bits and pieces... at least I had some good time wheeling before the 4th rush! Back to base.

Cheers
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
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