Ttb swap?

[Tonyt2293]

So I recently picked up a 69 j2000 fairly complete I need to swap the axles has a closed knuckle 44 and a d53 in the rear . So been thinking of swapping in the axles from my 91 f250 has the sterling 10.25 rear and ttb dana 50 front been trying to find some builds but no luck should I just scrap the idea and just leave it as a crazy idea and swap in some solid axles ?

[tgreese]

Have you measured the track of the Ford and compared with the Jeep? Overall the Jeep is small for a pickup. My understanding is full-size pickup axles are too wide for a J-truck, Ttb or not.

[sierrablue]

Width isn't an issue--the '67-pre'97 Fords are all right in that 65" WMS range.

I wouldn't take the ifs from the Ford tho. Those are not a great design with all the negative camber they induce when the front end unloads. I mean it works but it's not great.

Must be a light duty f250 if it has the IFS???

[Stuka]

Width isn't an issue--the '67-pre'97 Fords are all right in that 65" WMS range.

I wouldn't take the ifs from the Ford tho. Those are not a great design with all the negative camber they induce when the front end unloads. I mean it works but it's not great.

Must be a light duty f250 if it has the IFS???

All 80-96 F250's had TTB.

So I recently picked up a 69 j2000 fairly complete I need to swap the axles has a closed knuckle 44 and a d53 in the rear . So been thinking of swapping in the axles from my 91 f250 has the sterling 10.25 rear and ttb dana 50 front been trying to find some builds but no luck should I just scrap the idea and just leave it as a crazy idea and swap in some solid axles ?

It would be a lot of fab work to make a TTB work in a J-Truck. The frame is not near what it needs to be for the TTB brackets. You would be time and money ahead to just swap in a stronger solid axle. And move to the 74+ front spring setup at the same time, which were under the frame.

[Yeller]

In my opinion the only reason to intentionally swap to ttb is chasing wheel travel. That is the only place it really shines, but is terrible bunch of work. Personally I’d put in a solid axle of your choice. You are correct, 65” is the perfect width.

[ntsqd]

As the owner/operator of a TTB I'll second Yeller's comments and add some.

The D50 TTB is the worst possible option. The beams on it are short, so the camber change vs. suspension movement is increased over the D44 TTB. There is no gain in strength with the D50 over the D44 because they both use the same U-Joints in the steering and mid-axle locations and these already are the weakest parts in the whole axle.

If you go with longer than stock radius arms you can get the caster change into a reasonable range.

Excepting the whole U-Joints strength issue, the rest of the system can be built to be extremely stout and it can cycle 12+ inches fairly easily. Some COTS TTB Systems are strapped down to 16"! There are good reasons to limit the droop of this system, if 16" of wheel travel isn't enough....
Two of those COTS options: Option 1 Option 2 Then there is the orinator of TTB suspension tech: https://autofab.com/category/suspension ... uspension/ No, they're not inexpensive, and yes some probably can build their own for a lot less. However there are a lot of nuances to building a strong TTB, what to do about that middle U-J is just one of them.

I have been outright abusive on a couple occasions chasing broken desert racers and once just trying to find a speed on Saline Valley Rd. that wasn't rattling my teeth out (nowhere between 1mph and 60mph was smooth!). No problems beyond normal wear and tear.

[Yeller]

As the owner/operator of a TTB I'll second Yeller's comments and add some.

The D50 TTB is the worst possible option. The beams on it are short, so the camber change vs. suspension movement is increased over the D44 TTB. There is no gain in strength with the D50 over the D44 because they both use the same U-Joints in the steering and mid-axle locations and these already are the weakest parts in the whole axle.

If you go with longer than stock radius arms you can get the caster change into a reasonable range.

Excepting the whole U-Joints strength issue, the rest of the system can be built to be extremely stout and it can cycle 12+ inches fairly easily. Some COTS TTB Systems are strapped down to 16"! There are good reasons to limit the droop of this system, if 16" of wheel travel isn't enough....
Two of those COTS options: Option 1 Option 2 Then there is the orinator of TTB suspension tech: https://autofab.com/category/suspension ... uspension/ No, they're not inexpensive, and yes some probably can build their own for a lot less. However there are a lot of nuances to building a strong TTB, what to do about that middle U-J is just one of them.

I have been outright abusive on a couple occasions chasing broken desert racers and once just trying to find a speed on Saline Valley Rd. that wasn't rattling my teeth out (nowhere between 1mph and 60mph was smooth!). No problems beyond normal wear and tear.

Lot of first have truth there! Ntsqd knows his stuff.

Welcome aboard TS! Glad to see you over here too. Now start a thread post some pics of that fine waggy you acquired

[ntsqd]

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