BJ's 2" Lift Springs from Deaver

[devildog80]

Last you had in May was truck back on the road. Have the springs all settled where you want them, or still not sitting right?

[dodgerammit]

Speaking for myself, I don't notice it if it is still unlevel or not. Sitting out in the elements, it looks correct, given ground imperfections wherever I happen to take a second, admiring glance.

I've also been too busy to notice much anything else as I've been currently fighting these ****ing aluminum flare fittings on the evaporator for a couple of weeks trying to get them to seal without stripping the soft threads.
I WANT MY A/C, DANG IT!

Notes from the last couple of months:

The bump steer has either slightly reduced, or I've grown accustomed to it.

With TDOT having finally gotten off their rear ends and apparently received some infrastructure funding, the worst highway for ride quality in the area has been addressed. That is the biggest offender, IMO, of having a poor ride quality on a vintage ride. The road condition. Most old vehicles ride smooth enough providing the surface underneath isn't absolute trash. The favorite method of repair of pot holes locally is repeated applications of hot or cold patch layered on top of one another, over and over to the point that the pothole would be smoother. The rare time they actually cut a square out of the surface and do a proper repair, it lasts the rest of the life of the road. What a concept!

Okay, rant over. Deep breath. Exhale...

So, yeah. The ride is very nice with a decent surface underneath. Of course, the newer the surface, the nicer, but even on old surfaces absent of poor patch repairs and potholes, you'll really like it. Off road, or on corn cob hack job of a highway, you're gonna get bounced and jostled.

I did find the source of my squeak. The right rear body mount was a bit loose. That may have been part of the height difference as well.

If I remember it once I get the A/C working, I'll get more current measurements on all corners again.

[devildog80]

Good to hear, and hope you get the AC fittings figured

[MysticRob]

I measured the height at the rocker panel at each wheel opening before and after. If going from tired, stockers to these 2.5" springs, you'll gain exactly 4" in height from before.

...I figured I'd come back with an actual measurement reference for those wanting to know how high your Wag would be with these springs and factory sized 235/75/15s. Mine are Falken Rubitrek A/Ts, FWIW.

The measurement after the spring install at this ridge on the top edge of the rocker panel is 21" from the ground

I mixed and matched a couple of your posts to highlight the great info you provided here.
I have bad wag-sag on the driver side rear on my 88 that has an indicated 247k miles (I put about 1500 on myself after I bought it). Judging by how flat all 4 leaf springs are, and the amount of squeaking, groaning, and whale-handling, I'm pretty sure these are the original springs.

The following measurements on mine include just over 1/4 tank of guzzoline in the stock coffin-tank location with a 235-series spare underneath.
I measured ground-to-rockers like you did above, got the following:
17.5" driver side rocker to ground
18.25" passenger side rocker to ground
Driver side is 0.75" lower. Yikes.

I then measured ground to bottom of the rear quarter panel wheel-well openings, using the hubs as my centerline, and got the following:
28" driver side rear quarter panel to ground
28.75" passenger side rear quarter panel to ground
That same 0.75" lower on the left rear, like the rocker measurement difference.

I measured ground to bottom of the front fender openings, again using the hubs as my centerline, and got the following:
29.25" driver side front fender to ground
29.5" passenger side front fender to ground
Only 0.25" difference between those two, so not bad between them, but obviously the fronts are 1.25" higher than the rears. That's just nuts.

Anyway, I'm trying to get some info from BJ's on both their stock height and 2.5" lift kits, and will make a decision shortly once I figure some things out. BJ's site says the 2.5" lift kit is still made by Deaver, but I just want to verify with BJ's support. Same question about the stock-height kit since the site doesn't say who makes it. If it's Crown, which I've read, then I'll likely pass on those Chinesium springs.

I'm leaning toward the 2.5" lift kit just because I'm already running BFG T/A KO2s in a 30x9.50x15 size on the stock rims and I like that slightly lifted look and added ground clearance.

[devildog80]

Note....the original springs were in with other spare parts, when I brought my '84 GW home, and looked a bit flat. Sold the full set for $100, to a kid rigging up a Toyota off roader, so do not scrap them. They can have an after life

[dodgerammit]

I measured ground to bottom of the front fender openings, again using the hubs as my centerline, and got the following:
29.25" driver side front fender to ground
29.5" passenger side front fender to ground
Only 0.25" difference between those two, so not bad between them, but obviously the fronts are 1.25" higher than the rears. That's just nuts.

Look at your wheel openings, The rear opening is not cut into the body as high as the front (think old school Cadillac with smaller rear wheel openings), giving the illusion that the rear sits lower.

Measure the rocker panel at the rear of the front openings and the front of the rear openings (ie: the 4 rocker corners). This will tell you the height at each opening.

[MysticRob]

Look at your wheel openings, The rear opening is not cut into the body as high as the front (think old school Cadillac with smaller rear wheel openings), giving the illusion that the rear sits lower.

Measure the rocker panel at the rear of the front openings and the front of the rear openings (ie: the 4 rocker corners). This will tell you the height at each opening.

Oh yeah, you know I had forgotten that when calculating and writing everything out in case anyone found it interesting. My driver-rear has some obvious gangster lean to it no matter what, with an inch of difference measuring like you'd said above. I'm hoping at some point to figure out which springs and/or kit I want to go with to resolve the problem. Thought maybe the Dayton 97-485s to keep it stock and easy, but read some not-so-flattering things about those too, so still not any closer to buying anything.

The driver's side sits 1/4"-1/2" lower for some reason. I can't imagine the steering and brake stuff is that much more. I'd think the battery would offset it. Perhaps the transfer case adds enough driver's side ballast to cause it. My fuel tank is centered where the factory spare tire went, so that's not the issue.

BTW, now that it's been a few months, have you noticed any more settling? Curious if you could take front-to-rear and left to right rear rocker measurements again (especially in the rears) to see if that driver-side has sagged any more than you mentioned above.

Sorry to go round and round on the topic all, but I don't have PM privileges yet.

[MysticRob]

dupe post...

[MysticRob]

Well, after reading around elsewhere, I'm convinced installing the BJ's/Deaver 2.5"-lift kit is the way to go at this point. Expensive, but worth the price from what I can figure.

BJ's emailed me the spring rates for the 2.5" Deaver-made spring kit:
Fronts: spring rate ~334 lbs/inch, ~1,300-1,400lb capacity rating per spring
Rears: spring rate ~265 lbs/inch, ~1,200-1,300lb capacity rating per spring

The OEM-replacement Daytons (97-485/rear and 970400/front) have spring rates of ~1330lbs for the fronts and ~1150lbs for the rears from what I've found online, sometimes with iffy build quality.

So the BJ's are a bit stiffer in the rear, which should help with sag (mostly because they're new, and a bit because of the higher spring rate), and are likely why the kit rides so well from what everyone says. If that left rear still sags a bit after break-in, I'll put a lift-block back there.

[dodgerammit]

BTW, now that it's been a few months, have you noticed any more settling? Curious if you could take front-to-rear and left to right rear rocker measurements again (especially in the rears) to see if that driver-side has sagged any more than you mentioned above.

Sorry to go round and round on the topic all, but I don't have PM privileges yet.

Apologies on the delay. I've been laying on concrete for several days, fabbing up the 'new' winch on mine.

Got the measurements just now in the shop on level concrete. Drove it to work today.
Approx 2/3 tank of fuel (rear mount s10 Blazer setup, so 12ish gallons)
Freshly installed Warn 9.0 and the 1/4" plate to support it (approx 75-80lbs just behind front bumper)
Spare tire mounted inside cargo area on driver side
Tool bag of similar weight as spare tire on passenger side of cargo area.

Measurements taken at body line ridge on rocker as shown above
Driver side at rear of front wheel well 20 3/4"
Passenger side at rear of front wheel well 20 5/8"
Front of rear wheel opening 21" (both sides)

[MysticRob]

Measurements taken at body line ridge on rocker as shown above
Driver side at rear of front wheel well 20 3/4"
Passenger side at rear of front wheel well 20 5/8"
Front of rear wheel opening 21" (both sides)

Wow, yeah, that rear measurement is 3.5" higher at the back than my lowest (driver) side measurement. I'm convinced, just need to save up to get the kit with all the bushings and bolts. Thanks!!

[dodgerammit]

Measurements taken at body line ridge on rocker as shown above
Driver side at rear of front wheel well 20 3/4"
Passenger side at rear of front wheel well 20 5/8"
Front of rear wheel opening 21" (both sides)

Wow, yeah, that rear measurement is 3.5" higher at the back than my lowest (driver) side measurement. I'm convinced, just need to save up to get the kit with all the bushings and bolts. Thanks!!

I waffled back and forth on the spring choice of stock vs 2.5", but the stance looked better, plus having the needed extra room for the aluminum LS oil pan was the criteria that sold me. It took longer than I wanted to save for them, but it was worth it.

[MysticRob]

I waffled back and forth on the spring choice of stock vs 2.5", but the stance looked better, plus having the needed extra room for the aluminum LS oil pan was the criteria that sold me. It took longer than I wanted to save for them, but it was worth it.

Better stance and extra room underneath are 2 of the big things for me too, so the fact they have an increased spring rate and come from Deaver, a well-respected manufacturer, has me sold too. Thanks again for all the help!

[MysticRob]

Just to update everyone here, I ended up buying 2.5" Deaver spring kit from BJ's last friday, arriving today.
I used the "BJ100" $100 off coupon code with free shipping for a grand total of $1500 so I could use the paypal credit option to push the payments out over 4 months with 0% interest. Never hurts to spread out the charges just in case.
Also bought the BJ's leaf spring bolt kits, track bar relocation brackets, and poly shackle bushings kit in a separate transaction.
Will update once I get everything installed over the next couple weeks or so.

[dodgerammit]

Just to update everyone here, I ended up buying 2.5" Deaver spring kit from BJ's last friday, arriving today.
I used the "BJ100" $100 off coupon code with free shipping for a grand total of $1500 so I could use the paypal credit option to push the payments out over 4 months with 0% interest. Never hurts to spread out the charges just in case.
Also bought the BJ's leaf spring bolt kits, track bar relocation brackets, and poly shackle bushings kit in a separate transaction.
Will update once I get everything installed over the next couple weeks or so.

Make sure to use a synthetic grease for those poly bushings. Regular petroleum grease will cause deterioration. I use UMI suspension grease called super lube. https://www.walmart.com/ip/SYNTHETIC-GR ... 1/21074842

Also, when installing your new spring bolts, coat those puppies fully in antiseize. The shaft length inside the bushings, not the threads. Should you need to get back in there in a decade, future you will thank current you.

Also, my thread has some tips and tricks for the install when you get to the job.

[MysticRob]

Make sure to use a synthetic grease for those poly bushings. Regular petroleum grease will cause deterioration. I use UMI suspension grease called super lube. https://www.walmart.com/ip/SYNTHETIC-GR ... 1/21074842

Also, when installing your new spring bolts, coat those puppies fully in antiseize. The shaft length inside the bushings, not the threads. Should you need to get back in there in a decade, future you will thank current you.

Also, my thread has some tips and tricks for the install when you get to the job.

Excellent advice, shall do!