Hmm… something ain’t right

[thej10guy]

So I figured I would start a thread for pics/things that are messed up on our fsj’s that PO’s did or just happened over time, etc.

This was my most recent “that don’t look right moment”

This is my left rear rear shackle hanger on my 83 J10. For those that are wondering, this is not supposed to look like that, the metal around the head of the bolt and the other boxed area of metal is supposed to be one piece The bolt is still holding it on the other side of the shackle so it’s not going to fly off, but it ain’t right

Don’t worry though, I bought the ranger shackles so I can replace them, that is the next on my to-do list, and this truck will not see the road until it’s done.


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[Yeller]

Good catch to get that fixed. I’d be looking at doing some 63 Chevy springs band all 4 ranger spring brackets. It will ride soooooo much better.

[candymancan]

That entire frame looks questionable. I though mine was bad.. but yours is 10x worse

[sierrablue]

Looks ready for another 100k to me

[thej10guy]

Good catch to get that fixed. I’d be looking at doing some 63 Chevy springs band all 4 ranger spring brackets. It will ride soooooo much better.

Ok I have heard of people doing this but what all does this entail? I would like to keep my ~4” lift so would I need the 4” lift 63 springs? And would I need to change spring perches at all?


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[thej10guy]

That entire frame looks questionable. I though mine was bad.. but yours is 10x worse

Yeah the frame has some rough spots. In spots it has paint still and then look over 4 inches and there’s holes. We are going to fix the frame at the same time that we fix the shackles.


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[Stuka]

You can see where the whole hangar is ready to come off the frame. I am not sure I would be driving that around even if that outer bolt location was fixed. And actually, not sure it can be fixed as there is nothing to weld to of substance. The whole hangar should be replaced, assuming there is enough frame to weld to.

[sierrablue]

Looking at the design of it though, you can see why it rusted out, being in a salt-using state. Much like the inside of the rear quarter on the Wagoneers/Cherokees, it's basically a shelf, right behind the rear wheel, so if they didn't keep it clean, it just had salt there, sitting, for months. And when it was slushy, esp. if there aren't any drains on it, it would have salt water there, which would be even worse.

I realize it's not as strong, but for a 1/2 ton, this is why I like the post-mount style from the Kaiser rigs. It's not big and bulky, and it doesn't hold whatever crap comes off the tires.

So what're you thinking for rebuilding it/building a new one? Same design, new design..?

[thej10guy]

I have bought the ford ranger shackle hangers to replace them. They are bolt on, so I will cut off these shackle hangers, then I will fix the frame and then drill holes and bolt on the ranger hangers.


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[thej10guy]

And in regards to the 63” leaf springs, if anyone has a link to specific ones that they use that would be appreciated. I have done some reading on it but haven’t seen any info on specific ones that they used, I will keep looking though.


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[Yeller]

I used 98-08 4x4 springs. It’s just a matter of relocating the front hanger, which as rusty as the frame is probably needs attention as well.

As for mods, due to lift the springs have about 3” of arch with the weight of the truck on them. Mount your hangers as needed to attain the right height. I’d also mount the rear shackle in compression instead of tension. Keep the hanger higher and not hanging down under the truck. Makes adjusting height later easy with different length shackles.

[Kowpie]

Wow! I feel so sorry for you mid-west salt road folks. That frame rust is incredible! Thanks for sharing. See if you can tell what ain't right on my D20 when it came out?

Jeep Restore 115.jpg

[sierrablue]

Wow! I feel so sorry for you mid-west salt road folks. That frame rust is incredible! Thanks for sharing. See if you can tell what ain't right on my D20 when it came out?
Jeep Restore 115.jpg

Looks like you had a LITTLE too much grip and torque going through that...

I dunno if mine is an issue, but I've read that the factory TH400 to D20 adapter is actually pretty weak

[Yeller]

Wow! I feel so sorry for you mid-west salt road folks. That frame rust is incredible! Thanks for sharing. See if you can tell what ain't right on my D20 when it came out?
Jeep Restore 115.jpg

Sierra is right those are known for breaking, enough so that Novak developed a replacement eons ago.

I have one, with a D20 and output shaft that I’ve had posted for sale for over a year, not looking for the golden egg $100+ shipping for everything.

[sierrablue]

I have bought the ford ranger shackle hangers to replace them. They are bolt on, so I will cut off these shackle hangers, then I will fix the frame and then drill holes and bolt on the ranger hangers.


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That's what I thought--I guess I misread Stuka's post about them and got confused, sorry.

BTW how's the frame on the '79? Is it worth swapping the frames out, or is it rusted in different places so you can morph them together to make one somewhat acceptable frame?

The frame being rusted was the last straw on the '88 for me. In retrospect, I know how to weld now, I should have kept it and just restored it (left the 401 in, installed overdrive like I wanted to, and all that stuff), and then turned around and sold it. The '71 fits me a lot better than the '88 did, but a lot of people would pay some good money for a GW like that. Oh, well, that ship sailed awhile ago.

[thej10guy]

Yeah with the ‘79, the frame is rusted in pretty much the same spot and is in about the same condition. For those curious, I have a ‘79 j10 LWB parts truck as well. The problem with swapping the frames would also be my motor mounts that I would have to cut out or buy new ones for the ls.

@yeller, where abouts in your build thread do you talk about the spring swap, because I want to get some ideas to see what you did.


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[thej10guy]

And what exactly is tension vs. comprehension. I understand it has to do with the shackle pointed up towards the leaf spring vs. down to the leaf spring, but which is which?


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[Yeller]

Tension is factory in the rear, compression is factory in the front.

Yes axle wrap is an issue with spinning tires or hard off-roading. In reality is it with any leaf spring but long supple, soft, ones especially. I’ve not done anything about it as of yet, but should it hopps violently if the tires spin on pavement. If I decide to address it I’ll do a torque arm on the rear.

This does a good job of describing function with pictures.

https://dufftuff.com/product/torque-tam ... -rear-axle

I’ve built a bunch of similar design over the years. They work, one just must not under estimate the extreme loads that bar and bracketry must endure.

[thej10guy]

Thank you Yeller that is good information. Our plan originally was to do the shackle flip using the rear ranger shackles, and then pull a leaf out of the rear to help ride quality. I like the idea of the chevy springs though.

One problem, per the usual, is price. But I feel like long term ride quality will matter to me and the chevy springs are said to help significantly.

My other problem that I run into is making the front match. I realize I can adjust ride height a bit by moving the shackle mounts closer together with the chevy springs but I also don’t want to compromise the shackle angle. I do plan on someday in the long term 4 linking the front of my truck, but that will not be for a quite some time and I don’t want it to be too low in the back until then. If I were to do the spring change, are there suggestions as to what I could do to make the front match?


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[sierrablue]

Tension is factory in the rear, compression is factory in the front.

Yes axle wrap is an issue with spinning tires or hard off-roading. In reality is it with any leaf spring but long supple, soft, ones especially. I’ve not done anything about it as of yet, but should it hopps violently if the tires spin on pavement. If I decide to address it I’ll do a torque arm on the rear.

This does a good job of describing function with pictures.

https://dufftuff.com/product/torque-tam ... -rear-axle

I’ve built a bunch of similar design over the years. They work, one just must not under estimate the extreme loads that bar and bracketry must endure.

Well there IS always the option of making it spring-under; that makes axle-wrap pretty much impossible