Question for EVERYONE here

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dodgerammit
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Re: Question for EVERYONE here

Post by dodgerammit »

sierrablue wrote: Sat Jan 21, 2023 4:11 pm
That's awesome!

Won't the Trutrac in the front cause steering issues?
Nope. I had a truetrac in the front of my 85 Dodge W350. They are torque biasing, helical geared units. The wheel outside the turn can turn the extra rotation required without any chattering or harshness. If the a wheel should slip, it essentially seamlessly transfers power to the opposite side. I never had any feedback of even having a traction aid in the front axle other than the dang truck would just freaking go through anything I wanted.

The only time steering was even affected was in my sister's muddy horse lot when I delivered a round bale of hay. I could cut the wheels, but the soupy mud wouldn't allow the front to really steer effectively, so I blipped the throttle to make the front kinda lunge in the direction I needed. Didn't get stuck, even with being sunk up to the bottom of the axle tubes.

As far as street driving, you'll never know they are in the axle. They really shine in inclement weather, especially snow.

They are ideal for front axle applications.
84 Grand Waggy-Radio Flyer (Garnet Red/3M Ebony Metallic woodgrain, with honey interior) AMC 360 :cry: 2004 4.8LS/Advance Adapter/727/242 D44/AMC20 Serehill tailgate and headlight harnesses :fsj: Ongoing thread-viewtopic.php?t=11897

92 Wrangler Islander 4.0/32RH/231 D30/D35 RHD

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sierrablue
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Re: Question for EVERYONE here

Post by sierrablue »

dodgerammit wrote: Sat Jan 21, 2023 7:59 pm
sierrablue wrote: Sat Jan 21, 2023 4:11 pm
That's awesome!

Won't the Trutrac in the front cause steering issues?
Nope. I had a truetrac in the front of my 85 Dodge W350. They are torque biasing, helical geared units. The wheel outside the turn can turn the extra rotation required without any chattering or harshness. If the a wheel should slip, it essentially seamlessly transfers power to the opposite side. I never had any feedback of even having a traction aid in the front axle other than the dang truck would just freaking go through anything I wanted.

The only time steering was even affected was in my sister's muddy horse lot when I delivered a round bale of hay. I could cut the wheels, but the soupy mud wouldn't allow the front to really steer effectively, so I blipped the throttle to make the front kinda lunge in the direction I needed. Didn't get stuck, even with being sunk up to the bottom of the axle tubes.

As far as street driving, you'll never know they are in the axle. They really shine in inclement weather, especially snow.

They are ideal for front axle applications.
Cool! I wanted to put it in the back, but didn't think I could put it in the front w/o causing some binding issues.
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
-B350 (HEI, iron 4-barrel, Edelbrock 1406), TH400, D20
-'74 D44 front (nonpower discs)
-custom headliner
-Front shoulder belts (rears eventually)

viewtopic.php?t=23070

There are 2 major differences between new Wranglers and FSJs. FSJs are meant to be both utilitarian and capable, not just capable. FSJs are also rarely initially recognized as Jeeps by the average American.
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dodgerammit
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Re: Question for EVERYONE here

Post by dodgerammit »

sierrablue wrote: Sat Jan 21, 2023 8:11 pm
dodgerammit wrote: Sat Jan 21, 2023 7:59 pm
sierrablue wrote: Sat Jan 21, 2023 4:11 pm
That's awesome!

Won't the Trutrac in the front cause steering issues?
Nope. I had a truetrac in the front of my 85 Dodge W350. They are torque biasing, helical geared units. The wheel outside the turn can turn the extra rotation required without any chattering or harshness. If the a wheel should slip, it essentially seamlessly transfers power to the opposite side. I never had any feedback of even having a traction aid in the front axle other than the dang truck would just freaking go through anything I wanted.

The only time steering was even affected was in my sister's muddy horse lot when I delivered a round bale of hay. I could cut the wheels, but the soupy mud wouldn't allow the front to really steer effectively, so I blipped the throttle to make the front kinda lunge in the direction I needed. Didn't get stuck, even with being sunk up to the bottom of the axle tubes.

As far as street driving, you'll never know they are in the axle. They really shine in inclement weather, especially snow.

They are ideal for front axle applications.
Cool! I wanted to put it in the back, but didn't think I could put it in the front w/o causing some binding issues.
If you do only one axle, then the back is the best one to do, but if doing both, then the truetrac is great for the front if you're not doing hardcore wheeling where you're lifting a tire off the ground. Even if I was moderate wheeling, I'd run a truetrac in the front and a selectable in the rear. IMO, they are better for most anything you'll encounter in daily driving situations than selectable lockers. No needing to run air lines or cables, or electrical feed. They don't need limited slip additive. They don't engage/disengage like a mechanical locker. Just stick them in and forget about them.
84 Grand Waggy-Radio Flyer (Garnet Red/3M Ebony Metallic woodgrain, with honey interior) AMC 360 :cry: 2004 4.8LS/Advance Adapter/727/242 D44/AMC20 Serehill tailgate and headlight harnesses :fsj: Ongoing thread-viewtopic.php?t=11897

92 Wrangler Islander 4.0/32RH/231 D30/D35 RHD

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sierrablue
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Re: Question for EVERYONE here

Post by sierrablue »

dodgerammit wrote: Sat Jan 21, 2023 8:37 pm
sierrablue wrote: Sat Jan 21, 2023 8:11 pm
dodgerammit wrote: Sat Jan 21, 2023 7:59 pm

Nope. I had a truetrac in the front of my 85 Dodge W350. They are torque biasing, helical geared units. The wheel outside the turn can turn the extra rotation required without any chattering or harshness. If the a wheel should slip, it essentially seamlessly transfers power to the opposite side. I never had any feedback of even having a traction aid in the front axle other than the dang truck would just freaking go through anything I wanted.

The only time steering was even affected was in my sister's muddy horse lot when I delivered a round bale of hay. I could cut the wheels, but the soupy mud wouldn't allow the front to really steer effectively, so I blipped the throttle to make the front kinda lunge in the direction I needed. Didn't get stuck, even with being sunk up to the bottom of the axle tubes.

As far as street driving, you'll never know they are in the axle. They really shine in inclement weather, especially snow.

They are ideal for front axle applications.
Cool! I wanted to put it in the back, but didn't think I could put it in the front w/o causing some binding issues.
If you do only one axle, then the back is the best one to do, but if doing both, then the truetrac is great for the front if you're not doing hardcore wheeling where you're lifting a tire off the ground. Even if I was moderate wheeling, I'd run a truetrac in the front and a selectable in the rear. IMO, they are better for most anything you'll encounter in daily driving situations than selectable lockers. No needing to run air lines or cables, or electrical feed. They don't need limited slip additive. They don't engage/disengage like a mechanical locker. Just stick them in and forget about them.
Yeah I would never mess with air lockers at this point. It would be E locker or open in the front. The airs are too much work to keep sealed and get right.

And since I have a DD, I don't want lockers even in the back 'cause I like turning cleanly;) The Truetrac is absolutely the limited slip I want.
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
-B350 (HEI, iron 4-barrel, Edelbrock 1406), TH400, D20
-'74 D44 front (nonpower discs)
-custom headliner
-Front shoulder belts (rears eventually)

viewtopic.php?t=23070

There are 2 major differences between new Wranglers and FSJs. FSJs are meant to be both utilitarian and capable, not just capable. FSJs are also rarely initially recognized as Jeeps by the average American.

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sierrablue
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Re: Question for EVERYONE here

Post by sierrablue »

The rig that I forgot to mention: if I ever find one of the X-Rally FSJs, sitting back in a field someday, that would be incredible. It would be awesome to see all of the tricks and hacks they put in those things.

If I found a Kaiser one, I'd put the open knuckle front end in, forged aluminum slots (no center caps), Truetrac front and rear. Keep the TH400/Qtrac there, drop in one of these 401s:

https://www.enginelabs.com/news/vintage ... 97-pounds/

Probably put some adjustable Fox Shocks on each corner, rather than the 2-3 old school ones. 30x9.5" BFGs all the way on that!

As I think about it more: braided stainless brake hoses, rear discs (no parking brake), headers with a 2.25" y-pipe going into 3" single exhaust, with a nice big aluminum racing radiator with an electric cooling fan. Tow hooks on all 4 corners, stock looking lights that are actually LEDs, a rear brake lever, ZJ steering box w/electric boost (to eliminate the need for the hydraulic pump, thus more power going to the wheels) and a cast iron (vs. stamped steel) mounting bracket. CV joints in the front axle, maybe for the driveshafts too.

Obviously I'd use high-heat brake fluid, and full synthetic fluids. I might tune it for E-85, definitely a nice big cam, with a high output ignition system, cold air intake, etc. I'd for sure put in a modern fire extinguisher, modern racing seats, and modern 4-or 5-point racing belts.
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
-B350 (HEI, iron 4-barrel, Edelbrock 1406), TH400, D20
-'74 D44 front (nonpower discs)
-custom headliner
-Front shoulder belts (rears eventually)

viewtopic.php?t=23070

There are 2 major differences between new Wranglers and FSJs. FSJs are meant to be both utilitarian and capable, not just capable. FSJs are also rarely initially recognized as Jeeps by the average American.
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Kowpie
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Re: Question for EVERYONE here

Post by Kowpie »

Earliest Wagoneer there was, '63? 6 cylinder and manual transmission on the tree! I will own one someday! Love the simplicity.
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'65 Wagoneer, 230 OHC, IFS, Column Shift T90/D20
'73 J4000, 6000#, 258, T18/D20, 33", full disc.
'79 CJ7, 304, T18/D20, 35", 4.56, SOA, shackle reversal.

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sierrablue
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Re: Question for EVERYONE here

Post by sierrablue »

Kowpie wrote: Mon Jan 23, 2023 5:07 pm Earliest Wagoneer there was, '63? 6 cylinder and manual transmission on the tree! I will own one someday! Love the simplicity.
Technically a '63 model year but some call them '62s because they were released in '62 and have the '62 part numbers on all of
their parts. Those are sweet trucks!

2-door delivery or 4-door?
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
-B350 (HEI, iron 4-barrel, Edelbrock 1406), TH400, D20
-'74 D44 front (nonpower discs)
-custom headliner
-Front shoulder belts (rears eventually)

viewtopic.php?t=23070

There are 2 major differences between new Wranglers and FSJs. FSJs are meant to be both utilitarian and capable, not just capable. FSJs are also rarely initially recognized as Jeeps by the average American.

Mopar_guy
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Re: Question for EVERYONE here

Post by Mopar_guy »

Well I bought my "close to dream" Cherokee last summer. I had been looking at one for quite some time and when this one came up on BAT, I knew it was the right one. I really didn't want a black one but EVERYTHING else about it was perfect so I bought it. Finding one that's not a rust bucket is hard, but you all know that already. I have to confess that I got the the idea from Greg H and I plan on something similar but yet different. He set his up for racing and autocross where mine is going to more a pro touring Cherokee. It's going on a new 2wd chassis and I already have a 2020 6.4 Hemi with the 8 speed auto for it. The body is going to stay the way it is because that's what I love about it. It's original paint with real patina. The interior will only get a front seat upgrade, a custom console and probably Dakota Digital gauges along with sound deadening. We do a lot of road tours and this will carry more luggage and stuff than my AMC Javelin which is also Hemi swapped. It will get a lot of miles on it for sure. Here's a picture of it.
Cherokee 1 sm.jpg
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sierrablue
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Re: Question for EVERYONE here

Post by sierrablue »

That's awesome!
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
-B350 (HEI, iron 4-barrel, Edelbrock 1406), TH400, D20
-'74 D44 front (nonpower discs)
-custom headliner
-Front shoulder belts (rears eventually)

viewtopic.php?t=23070

There are 2 major differences between new Wranglers and FSJs. FSJs are meant to be both utilitarian and capable, not just capable. FSJs are also rarely initially recognized as Jeeps by the average American.
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Kowpie
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Re: Question for EVERYONE here

Post by Kowpie »

Sierra, Delivery or 4-door would work, although the delivery would be cool. Thanks for the info on the '62 build year stuff. I didn't know that.

Mopar, are those wheels different or is it just the way the photo is coming through? I just watched Derek on Vise Grip Garage do a hemi swap in a Chevrolet truck... Gosh, that looked involved! But seeing that you have done it before I'm sure you are well versed in the details. Nice Cherokee! I'm with you on black.
'65 Wagoneer, 230 OHC, IFS, Column Shift T90/D20
'73 J4000, 6000#, 258, T18/D20, 33", full disc.
'79 CJ7, 304, T18/D20, 35", 4.56, SOA, shackle reversal.

Mopar_guy
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Re: Question for EVERYONE here

Post by Mopar_guy »

Thanks for the compliments. It's one of the nicest, non-restored Cherokee's I've ever seen, body wise. It's just the reflection in the wheel. Here's another angle.
Cherokee3.JPG
It's not as bad as people think it is. It's a wide motor for sure but the aftermarket has a lot more to offer now than when I did mine 5 years ago. I feel that a Hemi is much better suited for an AMC or Jeep than an LS. I respect the platform but they're as common as small block swaps were 20 years ago so having something as unique as a Cherokee or Javelin only to put an LS into doesn't do it justice IMO. I'm one that believes in the motto "To each their own" though. If they did the swap to be able to drive it a lot, then I'm all for it! You just don't buy old car parts at big box auto parts stores so it's much more practical to swap in something more modern. I get the AMC purists rag on me about my Javelin but not one of them drive their car more than a tow truck distance from home. I put over 8,600 miles on it last summer alone. :D Here's an article that Summit did on it. https://www.onallcylinders.com/2022/12/ ... d-javelin/
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83 Cherokee Laredo
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Kowpie
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Re: Question for EVERYONE here

Post by Kowpie »

Thanks for sharing. I love all of the background stories that we all have. I guess I'm one of those purist guys you spoke of, but saying that, I also agree everyone has uses that dictate their personal preferences. As you stated, someone that drives these vehicles as much as you do makes me understand the modernization. Awesome write up! You have every reason to be proud of that. Have always wanted a Javelin, yours is incredible. I'm sure you've seen the one the Ring Bros did?
'65 Wagoneer, 230 OHC, IFS, Column Shift T90/D20
'73 J4000, 6000#, 258, T18/D20, 33", full disc.
'79 CJ7, 304, T18/D20, 35", 4.56, SOA, shackle reversal.
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Yeller
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Re: Question for EVERYONE here

Post by Yeller »

Mopar_guy wrote: Wed Jan 25, 2023 11:03 am Thanks for the compliments. It's one of the nicest, non-restored Cherokee's I've ever seen, body wise. It's just the reflection in the wheel. Here's another angle.
Cherokee3.JPG

It's not as bad as people think it is. It's a wide motor for sure but the aftermarket has a lot more to offer now than when I did mine 5 years ago. I feel that a Hemi is much better suited for an AMC or Jeep than an LS. I respect the platform but they're as common as small block swaps were 20 years ago so having something as unique as a Cherokee or Javelin only to put an LS into doesn't do it justice IMO. I'm one that believes in the motto "To each their own" though. If they did the swap to be able to drive it a lot, then I'm all for it! You just don't buy old car parts at big box auto parts stores so it's much more practical to swap in something more modern. I get the AMC purists rag on me about my Javelin but not one of them drive their car more than a tow truck distance from home. I put over 8,600 miles on it last summer alone. :D Here's an article that Summit did on it. https://www.onallcylinders.com/2022/12/ ... d-javelin/
Nice write up! Nice Javlin too :shock: :D

I've gotten a lot of flak over putting an LS into everything, but I was doing SBC's before that. I couldn't agree more about driving them. Go to the corner combination parts/groceries/hardware/diner/gas station place in Nowhere Rural America and get a fuel pump at 6pm on Friday, after you called the number on the door for them to come open up for an AMC 360, not happening, but they probably have one for a 2005 chevy pickup. I have put 16,000 miles on my J truck since last February..... Gotta be reliable and gotta have parts available anywhere any time.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.

1970 J2500 Resto Mod
https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewt ... 12&t=21395

1974 Bronco “Broncno”
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threa ... st-3411909

Mopar_guy
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Re: Question for EVERYONE here

Post by Mopar_guy »

Kowpie wrote: Wed Jan 25, 2023 12:38 pm Thanks for sharing. I love all of the background stories that we all have. I guess I'm one of those purist guys you spoke of, but saying that, I also agree everyone has uses that dictate their personal preferences. As you stated, someone that drives these vehicles as much as you do makes me understand the modernization. Awesome write up! You have every reason to be proud of that. Have always wanted a Javelin, yours is incredible. I'm sure you've seen the one the Ring Bros did?
Thank you for the kind words. Some of them, like yourself, listens to what I do with it, usually is understanding. Yeah I get it that it's not your cup of tea but you understand it and stop there. Others just don't get it because they either don't have a drive-able car or never drive theirs enough to really enjoy it. We did the Barrett Jackson Road Tour last year and it was 6 states in 8 days for about 2,400 miles and then home another 700 miles so if something happens, I don't want to be sitting in a hotel for 2 days waiting on parts and missing the tour. With this I can get most parts anywhere as I tend to avoid special aftermarket parts. I keep a starter because it's special, fuel filter, cam and crank sensors. That's it because anything else I can get quickly.
Yes I've been to their shop twice and got to see that car being built. Mike thinks highly of my car. Here's a video of the tour we went on and you'll see it in there. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4D_zlrDszU
83 Cherokee Laredo

Mopar_guy
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Re: Question for EVERYONE here

Post by Mopar_guy »

Yeller wrote: Wed Jan 25, 2023 1:21 pm Nice write up! Nice Javlin too :shock: :D

I've gotten a lot of flak over putting an LS into everything, but I was doing SBC's before that. I couldn't agree more about driving them. Go to the corner combination parts/groceries/hardware/diner/gas station place in Nowhere Rural America and get a fuel pump at 6pm on Friday, after you called the number on the door for them to come open up for an AMC 360, not happening, but they probably have one for a 2005 chevy pickup. I have put 16,000 miles on my J truck since last February..... Gotta be reliable and gotta have parts available anywhere any time.
Thanks! I have a feeling that you and I are on the same page about swaps from reading your posts. You swapped it to drive it and that's super cool with me. I get it that they have huge aftermarket support which makes it much easier which is a big draw for a lot of guys. You hit the nail on the head about getting parts. I said something similar in my reply to Kowpie. I'm hoping to get started on my Jeep this year. I have another Javelin that I'm putting back together now so I can sell it this spring. That's my budget for the Jeep my wife says. :lol: :twisted: I'll do a build thread here for it here when I get on it. There's also going to be a complete chassis and driveline for sale if you want to go back stock........... Yeah I thought so! ;) :lol:
83 Cherokee Laredo

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sierrablue
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Re: Question for EVERYONE here

Post by sierrablue »

That is an awesome write up!

I agree on the LS swaps--if you need something cheap and easy to find parts for, to drive it, I can understand it. Flip side, the only advantage the LS really has over a fuel injected AMC (or Buick, in my case ;)) V-8 with an overdrive transmission is the parts availibility. Even then, in my experience, sometimes the stuff that's "easier to find parts for" really isn't. Like with my HEI, I was thinking that it was a much newer system than points, so everyone would have the parts (there are other obvious advantages to the swap), and yet I can get a new cap/rotor/condenser/ballast resistor off the shelf, while I had to order a cap/rotor/module for the HEI.

Anyway, my big issue with the LS swap is that you're doing an entire drivetrain swap and doing all that wiring, yet you're blatantly ignoring OHCs among other major improvements you could get over a SBC with special heads/intake and no distributor.
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
-B350 (HEI, iron 4-barrel, Edelbrock 1406), TH400, D20
-'74 D44 front (nonpower discs)
-custom headliner
-Front shoulder belts (rears eventually)

viewtopic.php?t=23070

There are 2 major differences between new Wranglers and FSJs. FSJs are meant to be both utilitarian and capable, not just capable. FSJs are also rarely initially recognized as Jeeps by the average American.

Mopar_guy
Posts: 73
Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2022 9:13 am

Re: Question for EVERYONE here

Post by Mopar_guy »

sierrablue wrote: Wed Jan 25, 2023 2:53 pm That is an awesome write up!

I agree on the LS swaps--if you need something cheap and easy to find parts for, to drive it, I can understand it. Flip side, the only advantage the LS really has over a fuel injected AMC (or Buick, in my case ;)) V-8 with an overdrive transmission is the parts availibility. Even then, in my experience, sometimes the stuff that's "easier to find parts for" really isn't. Like with my HEI, I was thinking that it was a much newer system than points, so everyone would have the parts (there are other obvious advantages to the swap), and yet I can get a new cap/rotor/condenser/ballast resistor off the shelf, while I had to order a cap/rotor/module for the HEI.

Anyway, my big issue with the LS swap is that you're doing an entire drivetrain swap and doing all that wiring, yet you're blatantly ignoring OHCs among other major improvements you could get over a SBC with special heads/intake and no distributor.
Thank you!
You have to stop and think about this, HEI went out of production in the mid 80's. That's almost 40 years ago!! (God I'm getting old :o ) Yes it's better than points but so much of the aftermarket and replacements parts out there are crap. It's all made as cheap as possible to no standards so any of it's a crap shoot. That's why I stay away from aftermarket parts as much as I can. The OEM's spend MILLIONS in R&D and the aftermarket spends zero most of the time. I have a saying from long ago when I was a dealer tech, "just because it's new doesn't mean it's good". I've proven that many people over the years.

As for your paragraph, I'll respectfully disagree. What the modern, computer designed engines can make for hp and torque while getting decent mileage is way better than the old small blocks. Every generation just keeps getting even better. I have a 5.7 Hemi in my Javelin which is 348 ci and it makes around 425 - 450 hp with a stock 6.4 cam and intake on it. I'm using Jeep SRT shorty factory headers and a canned tune. Oh and I average 20 MPG with it. :) No way could a 360 Magnum or AMC get that with the same trans and gears I have now. Let alone what it takes/costs to make that much power. I think you're selling the modern engines short. There's really no need for OHC for most of this stuff and just adds more cost and complexity. That's my take on it. ;)
83 Cherokee Laredo

Topic author
sierrablue
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Re: Question for EVERYONE here

Post by sierrablue »

I can see that stuff too, but why limit yourself by using pushrods if you're going to do all of the work to eliminate them anyway?

I was thinking the Hemi was an OHC, sorry. I think the Hemi is ok, and my grandpa really loves his in his WK2. Personally I'd prefer a Coyote or a 4.6L Ford, just for the improved flow of the OHC. I do respect the pushrods don't get me wrong (I mean, my Buick 350 is pushing 400 lb-ft of torque, at 3200 rpm, and is really stock except for the HEI and 4-barrel), but really, even in the '80s, Rousch had the Trans Am foxbodies putting out 700+ horsepower at the wheels on a 2.3 turbo 4-cylinder (and unlike the 2jz, those do NOT have torque problems).

I just feel like the technology is there and nobody's using it is all. But really my opinion is that the combustion engine is so inefficient that there's no point in messing with it, unless you're using it for a generator for an EV. No joke, you can get 50+ mpg out of a 1-ton dually that weighs 9,000 lbs on its own if you do it that way. And trains have been doing it since the '30s so...

Also I would argue that these 401s could probably keep up with your 5.7 for mileage and power ;)
https://www.enginelabs.com/news/vintage ... 97-pounds/

Not dissing anyone here it's just how I see these engines.
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
-B350 (HEI, iron 4-barrel, Edelbrock 1406), TH400, D20
-'74 D44 front (nonpower discs)
-custom headliner
-Front shoulder belts (rears eventually)

viewtopic.php?t=23070

There are 2 major differences between new Wranglers and FSJs. FSJs are meant to be both utilitarian and capable, not just capable. FSJs are also rarely initially recognized as Jeeps by the average American.

Mopar_guy
Posts: 73
Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2022 9:13 am

Re: Question for EVERYONE here

Post by Mopar_guy »

sierrablue wrote: Wed Jan 25, 2023 4:29 pm
Also I would argue that these 401s could probably keep up with your 5.7 for mileage and power ;)
https://www.enginelabs.com/news/vintage ... 97-pounds/
Power yes but not mileage. But what that costs compared to what I have in mine, there's no contest. And you still can't get parts for it most anywhere. :D
83 Cherokee Laredo

Srdayflyer
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Re: Question for EVERYONE here

Post by Srdayflyer »

sierrablue, a bit of information, the 69 buick 350 has a big short coming, its the upper valve train is a weak link at high rpm it pumps the lifter dry, you need to block 2 oil gallery ports,install lifters,push rods, and rocker arms from a 1970 as buick found this out and changed the oiling system, this is from my experience with buick muscle cars, my dream is my current 83 cherokee with a buick 455 , stock stats 390 hp at 3500 rpm but a wapping torque monster 525 ft lb at 2500 rpm torque baby its all about the torque. with holly sniper/hyperspark the numbers really jumpup
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