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Rear tailgate
Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2022 5:47 am
by 69gladiator
I’m seriously considering bagging the electric tailgate window for a manual crank on my 82 Cherokee. I’ve read mixed reviews on the Crown aftermarket kit. Short of finding a good used oem setup, is there and alternative to the Crown product?
Re: Rear tailgate
Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2022 7:58 am
by Stuka
I have not seen any other kits. Its kind of a niche product, so I would be surprised if there is another aftermarket solution that we are unaware of.
For $170 bucks, the crown version seems almost too cheap. But its possible they use the same kit for Blazers and Broncos.
Re: Rear tailgate
Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2022 8:21 am
by tgreese
What's the usual complaint about the electric windows? Previous discussion here and on IFSJA points to either home-made upgrade with aftermarket relays and upgraded wire and connectors, or a kit of such parts that does the same thing.
Does anything mechanical fail? I'd expect most of that to be the same, whether crank-operated or motor-operated. I recall the main complaint about the replacement kit was the splines in the aftermarket crank handle.
Very often motors like window and wiper motors can be revived if they are properly cleaned. There are not many service parts in a DC motor, maybe bearings and brushes. The armature and field windings can go open after long service; this comes from metal fatigue in the copper wire by repeated on-off stress from the magnetic fields. If a winding is open, I'd say it's not worth fixing.
Re: Rear tailgate
Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2022 9:37 am
by JWestfall
I have a 71 Wagoneer and initially gave up on the electric and went with the crown manual. It's junk. It wouldn't lock and it would roll down by itself on bumpy roads. I converted back to the electric with the relay system (lots of posts about that and I think BJ's sells one) and added a dakota digital remote system and I love it. Just my two cents.
Re: Rear tailgate
Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2022 10:00 am
by dodgerammit
tgreese wrote: ↑Mon Nov 28, 2022 8:21 am
What's the usual complaint about the electric windows? Previous discussion here and on IFSJA points to either home-made upgrade with aftermarket relays and upgraded wire and connectors, or a kit of such parts that does the same thing.
Does anything mechanical fail? I'd expect most of that to be the same, whether crank-operated or motor-operated. I recall the main complaint about the replacement kit was the splines in the aftermarket crank handle.
Very often motors like window and wiper motors can be revived if they are properly cleaned. There are not many service parts in a DC motor, maybe bearings and brushes. The armature and field windings can go open after long service; this comes from metal fatigue in the copper wire by repeated on-off stress from the magnetic fields. If a winding is open, I'd say it's not worth fixing.
Second this. Splurge once and do it right. Fix the electrics properly with relays and be done. Avoid the cheapie manual setup that's junk. There has only been a couple of times my current system of 6 years glitched out. Once was when the safety switch started acting up. Once was just an intermittent connection that was remedied by banging on the tailgate. Plans are to move the circuitry from inside the tailgate to the quarter panel. Water intrusion is causing some copper corrosion that is leading to the intermittent issue.
Build or buy a relay system, locate it in the driver's quarter panel, and heat shrink everything that can get moisture. If the safety switch is functioning, tuck the harness out of the way of the window travel. The window will operate for years without issue.
Re: Rear tailgate
Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2022 10:24 am
by tgreese
3M adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing.
https://www.parts-express.com/wire-cabl ... s/brand/3M
Waterproof relays
https://www.parts-express.com/12-VDC-Wa ... quantity=1
Weather Pack connectors
https://www.delcity.net/store/Weather-P ... s/p_797633
If it was for me, I would simply eliminate all the connectors. You can solder to the relay tabs, and cover the connection with the 3M heat shrink. Connectors are a liability. The OEM connectors are there to make assembly at the factory fast and easy. You don't need them, and the original connectors are not weatherproof, much less waterproof. If you need to make a repair in the field, cut the wires and temporarily splice them back with butt connectors. Use grommets where you pass through sheet metal, and sheath the wire with vacuum hose anywhere there is a danger of wear or pinching. You can also glue the wire to the body steel - along its whole length - to further prevent chafing (old Baja racer trick).
Re: Rear tailgate
Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2022 4:05 pm
by 69gladiator
If I can find a good used pen set up, can it be done?
Re: Rear tailgate
Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2022 8:05 am
by tgreese
Pen set up? What do you mean?
If you mean the OEM crank-operated parts, yes. However, nearly all of these Jeeps came with the electric tailgate window. I would guess that the crank-operated unit became even more scarce as time went by, and completely disappeared as the GW went upscale and the FS Cherokee ended. Plus the news has been out about the manual setup for decades, and the Crown product would not exist if the OEM parts were available.
Re: Rear tailgate
Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2022 9:36 am
by supergeess
I was fortunate to find a good OEM manual unit locally and did the switch. Has worked great since.