Re: 83 Cherokee resto-mod
Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2023 9:01 pm
Awesome, thanks!
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I thought about that too. my idea was passenger side rear quarter, and then move the interior panel more inside so the area behind it is deeper. might even clear room for an air compressor.Laredo Matt wrote: ↑Fri Oct 06, 2023 2:38 pm I've come to the conclusion I need to relocate my battery. I started a thread on the technical forum board.
If any of you have done it outside the engine bay and have suggestions or pictures, let me know. Appreciate any and all feedback and ideas
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I had the same matt. i first made a heat shield, but it still felt too close for comfort. Re did everything: I flanged the lines, extended them to the willwood master cylinder and used the adjustable proportioning valve that is high up. and out of the way from the exhaust.Laredo Matt wrote: ↑Fri Oct 06, 2023 1:26 pm Thanks AKG, I originally ordered a full set of brake lines from them but with all the changes I've made, and am now planning to make even more, their lines won't work.
Unfortunately, I thinking I'm going to have to relocate the proportioning valve. With the manifold and exhaust location off the engine there is less than 1" .......maybe closer to .5". .... of clearance separating the proportioning valve and the exhaust when mounted on the frame int he factory location. Not a whole lot more clearance between brake lines either and I think that is a little close and a lot of heat. Don't know for sure but would be more comfortable with more separation.
I do need an extended e-brake line so will check them out. Moved cross member 3" further back to accommodate the new drivetrain so factory won't work.
if you used the stock holes in the frame (the rear ones) then you can use the front and mid e-brake cables from the 6-cylinder version of the Cherokee. i did and thy snap into place without fabrication. rear cables to the brakes remain the same.Laredo Matt wrote: ↑Fri Oct 06, 2023 1:26 pm
I do need an extended e-brake line so will check them out. Moved cross member 3" further back to accommodate the new drivetrain so factory won't work.
I didn't do a heat shield but did use DEI heat wrap and still wasn't comfortable. Knowing the quality of your build, I'm in good company. Also planning to move the proportioning valve up on the inner fender or directly below the master cylinder.wimsurf wrote: ↑Mon Oct 09, 2023 11:24 am
I had the same matt. i first made a heat shield, but it still felt too close for comfort. Re did everything: I flanged the lines, extended them to the willwood master cylinder and used the adjustable proportioning valve that is high up. and out of the way from the exhaust.
I used the two stock rear holes for the front location of the cross member and drilled new ones for the rear. I'll have to go look later to be sure when I'm home. Where did you order the 6 cylinder cables you ended up using? Do you have part numbers by chance?
this one at the pedal:Laredo Matt wrote: ↑Mon Oct 09, 2023 11:42 amI used the two stock rear holes for the front location of the cross member and drilled new ones for the rear. I'll have to go look later to be sure when I'm home. Where did you order the 6 cylinder cables you ended up using? Do you have part numbers by chance?