Full Size Jeep Network

tgreese wrote: ↑Sat Oct 09, 2021 8:53 am It's a symbol for a stud. There is a legend on page W-6. On the diagram, they are positioned "schematically" near the device picture or lable.

Thanks. I wasn’t able to find the legend.

Swbtwo wrote: ↑Sat Sep 25, 2021 1:59 pm The green connector to the distributor

the distributor connectors area always a mess, you can use the weatherpack from GM, and yes as Tim said the plastic can crack or the wires slightly loose some of the insulation





this thread

https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewto ... 9&start=20

letank wrote: ↑Sun Oct 10, 2021 6:52 pm

Swbtwo wrote: ↑Sat Sep 25, 2021 1:59 pm The green connector to the distributor

the distributor connectors area always a mess, you can use the weatherpack from GM, and yes as Tim said the plastic can crack or the wires slightly loose some of the insulation





this thread

https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewto ... 9&start=20

Thanks!

I finished the wiring harness and installed the HEI distributor from Performance Distributors. I was pretty happy to have the engine turn over when I turned the key (at least I got that much right) even though I only did it briefly and it didn’t start (the carburetor is disconnected from the computer and I haven’t set the timing). Then the ignition key stuck in the locked position.

If you’ve been following you’ll remember I’ve had problems with the key turning from day one and suspected the wiring damage came from problems with the ignition lock, the rod and ignition switch. Yesterday I pulled the steering column apart, leaving the lower part of the column in place (non-tilt). The rack lock and sector looked ok, but worn and had a pretty rough movement. The remote rod was slightly bent. I’ve ordered a new turn signal (badly worn and while I’m here, right?) ignition switch, sector and rack lock and hope to clean, lube and have it all locked up this weekend.

One aspect was a little weird. Check out this damage. Should I replace this? Oh, did I mention that at least on the bench I can remove the key without depressing the key release lever?

My “while I’m at it” voyage of discovery continues. I had to remove the steering column and repair the key mechanism/starter actuator rod. While I was there I replaced the ignition switch and turn signal switch. I removed the gauge panel to clean and replace bulbs and found the amp gauge was partly melted and the wiring to it burned.

Of course that means now’s a good time to make the switch to a volt gauge and the rewiring that comes with it. I happened to have a new old stock cab wiring harness and was going to replace the old/chopped one and noticed a few subtle differences. I assume, because they’re the same year, the new one with the extra 9 pin plug is meant for options?




Sorry, I’m sure it’s right in front of me, but I can’t find “frame 1” to learn more about this plug that’s on the new, but not the old harness.

Finally, what’s the importance of the blue bulb covers and what does this black wire with the bare metal connector on the old harness go to? Thanks, as always.

Suggest you photocopy the wiring diagram double size, and trace it out with colored pencils.

I would expect the wires with dotted lines are an optional harness. The Jeep is its own best reference. Suggest you don't remove anything until you understand what you have and what you will replace.

Frame is the frame of the Jeep, not a frame like a picture. Should be there if you look at every page.

The black wire goes into the flat connector as I recall. You can look at the diagram and figure it out. The wire's length and its proximity to that connector would suggest that. Read the diagram - if it were a snake ... The connector is on the diagram and on the cluster diagram in section 1-L. Suggest you read about the instruments in section 1-L before you continue. Lots more info there than on the diagram.

tgreese wrote: ↑Sat Dec 04, 2021 9:25 am Suggest you photocopy the wiring diagram double size, and trace it out with colored pencils.

I would expect the wires with dotted lines are an optional harness. The Jeep is its own best reference. Suggest you don't remove anything until you understand what you have and what you will replace.

Frame is the frame of the Jeep, not a frame like a picture. Should be there if you look at every page.

The black wire goes into the flat connector as I recall. You can look at the diagram and figure it out. The wire's length and its proximity to that connector would suggest that. Read the diagram - if it were a snake ... The connector is on the diagram and on the cluster diagram in section 1-L. Suggest you read about the instruments in section 1-L before you continue. Lots more info there than on the diagram.

Great advice and helpful, as always. Thanks.

Two more weird (to me) things I’ve found.

1) my ignition key doesn’t turn to accessory. There’s just no travel further counterclockwise than “lock”. I’ve verified the ignition switch works properly in the positions the key does turn to.

2) whoever tapped the head for the socket screws to secure the aluminum valve cover used three different sizes. I know the screws at the front and back are small, but the three on the passenger side of the head are 5/16-18 and the two on the driver’s side are 5/16-24. I think one of the driver’s side holes is cross threaded. I’ll have to clean it better to verify.