Next to a barn find 89 GW

[devildog80]

McGyver that sucker together and it will last a lifetime.

JB Weld a block-off plate to what face is left on your broken one, install electric pump.....done.

[Anvil-3]

Alright, y’all said enough… I’m going to hopefully return the new housing I ordered and attempt a repair…

Plan is to replace the bolt with a stud… JB Weld a stud in the old spot with the larger shards that blew off, because why not, and then see if she holds. It seems like a pretty decent shot. Threads on the housing should provide a decent grip to the stud.


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[devildog80]

Make sure to turn the cam so it is off the pump cycle when you install new pump.

[Anvil-3]

Make sure to turn the cam so it is off the pump cycle when you install new pump.

I bet that’s what got me here in the first place


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[devildog80]

I think it was as well.
Cast block, we set the pump in the block and bolt it in, pulling itself up tight if on pump cycle.
This design....not so much....but....here we are, and hope it fixes and works well for a long time

[Anvil-3]

I’m just mainly wishing I hadn’t pulled my distributor, it’s a Holley hyper spark but it’s still a pain in the butt to find TDC, compression stroke on my own


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[devildog80]

Can I help from here?

[Anvil-3]

I’m thinking of rotating to TDC and shoving an air hose in the spark plug hole, should tell me which stroke I’m on if it builds pressure or goes out the exhaust


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[tgreese]

Do you have a remote starter switch? Handy and cheap tool. Suggest you take the #1 spark plug out and listen as you crank the engine. The compression stroke is obvious by the air rushing out of the spark plug hole. Stop cranking in that cycle and turn the engine with a wrench to line up the timing mark. This will be #1 TDC.

[devildog80]

All you need to do is insert pump arm in the hole and see if the cam lobe is up or down on the pump cycle.
If down, then pump will be tipped down towards the engine, and not square with mounting surface.
If it goes in straight and flush to the install point, then cam is up and you are good.
No need to fuss with finding TDC, just need the cam lobe off the pump cycle.

[tgreese]

Mmm. I thought the question was about indexing the distributor (at #1 TDC), not the fuel pump. Maybe not?

[Anvil-3]

I pulled the distributor and accessories in anticipation of a new case, so both need reinstalled if my repair works…

Considering also drilling slightly into the housing to use a roll pin through the stud for anti-rotation


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[tgreese]

I think if you use a hardening sealant (like Permatex #1, for example) your block-off plate won't turn. JB Weld too, but that will be strictly permanent. Clean well, let it set up. Pretty sure it will work fine using a single bolt without needing elaborate.

[devildog80]

Mmm. I thought the question was about indexing the distributor (at #1 TDC), not the fuel pump. Maybe not?

As both issues need to be taken care of, it seems we are going down the same road, just different lanes, and sometimes crossing over the lines?
Did not intend to seem snarky tgreese.
Absolute last thing I want to do, as I know little overall how to get through most of what pops up on the forum :/
Apologies if taken adversely.

[Anvil-3]

I think if you use a hardening sealant (like Permatex #1, for example) your block-off plate won't turn. JB Weld too, but that will be strictly permanent. Clean well, let it set up. Pretty sure it will work fine using a single bolt without needing elaborate.

Still planning to use the mechanical pump if this stud works out. I’m using a Robb MC surge tank with my EFI, and have been really trying to avoid a noisy pump. Planning to epoxy the stud in this week and hopefully reassemble Sunday just enough to confirm it’ll hold


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[sierrablue]

If you're willing to spend the bucks on an in tank electric pump, it's well worth it. Very quiet and protected.

[devildog80]

Even inexpensive frame mounted pumps work forever, and once engine is running, should not be able to hear the pump run.
I paid $25ish for frame mount 4-7 psi replacement on my '84 GW, and works really well.
Feeds all the 401 needs with MC2100 carb.

[Anvil-3]

Even inexpensive frame mounted pumps work forever, and once engine is running, should not be able to hear the pump run.
I paid $25ish for frame mount 4-7 psi replacement on my '84 GW, and works really well.
Feeds all the 401 needs with MC2100 carb.

Sorry there tweeful hund, but I’m a certified (JB) welder.



And by that I mean I really hope this works otherwise I’m going to do like you said. Just trying to keep the rig simple.


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[tgreese]

...
Did not intend to seem snarky tgreese.
Absolute last thing I want to do, as I know little overall how to get through most of what pops up on the forum :/
Apologies if taken adversely.

NP. Not taken that way. Yes, multiple topics in a build thread by necessity. They get tangled. Should have put some quoted context in my reply; I'll try to remember.

[devildog80]

The mounting bolt bottom left that attaches cover to the block....might be able to incorporate something attached with that for reinforcement support?
But nice "weld" you did there. Looks promising

Even inexpensive frame mounted pumps work forever, and once engine is running, should not be able to hear the pump run.
I paid $25ish for frame mount 4-7 psi replacement on my '84 GW, and works really well.
Feeds all the 401 needs with MC2100 carb.

Sorry there tweeful hund, but I’m a certified (JB) welder.



And by that I mean I really hope this works otherwise I’m going to do like you said. Just trying to keep the rig simple.


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