1966 Thriftside Gladiator J2000 Tow Rig Build

[localfiend]

Moving my build thread here from IFSJA.org so this first bit might seem a bit disjointed.






Howdy everyone. Picked up a 66 Gladiator that I've been wanting for a very long time and have started the slow process of restoration and rebuilding.

1966 Jeep Gladiator J2000
3" Body Lift (Might have to go....)
Dana 44's Front and Rear 3.92 Ratio
T90 3 Speed
Dana 20 T-Case (I think... it's very very dirty)
Slightly Built Chevy 350
Edelbrock 650CFM (I think) Carb
Well Lining Bumper... For deflecting grizzly bears I think

Frame is in great shape, only slight surface rust. Body is mostly straight - gonna need a bit of hammering though, especially on the tailgate.
Bed has some cancer on the sides and on the floor in the back. Firewall seems solid, floor pans need some work. Passenger side isn't bad, but the drivers side will require cutting.

I want to turn this thing into a tow rig so that I can haul my camping gear and TJ to the trail.

Here's a bunch of pics to kind of get things up to speed. I have a bunch of questions.












Check out the gas pedal, it was held to the floor with layers of tape and cardboard....



The front on the drivers side need to be mostly replaced, the passenger has one hole. The rear and all the seams are really good.

One of my other neighbors are a bead roller, so fixing this with some sheet metal will be a breeze. Plus I get to practice with my new welder.







Currently in the working on the brakes stage. They would not come off using any kind of usual method.

Been applying PB blaster over the last few days, and finally assembled this:

The Claw....







Revenge:

I like it ! That's what i call a truck and you got also the cool old school small rear window

With a 100028 serial number , it means that the truck got the 327 originally (thanks for sharing the VIN tag)

If it's really a '66 and had an AMC 327 originally, it would have come with the T-85 transmission, not a T-90. It's also a Borg-Warner 3-speed with a non-synchro 1st, but it's considerably stronger than the T-90.



Just FYI. I would check the side of the transmission for casting numbers. These transmissions come with a tag under the top cover bolt, but it's often lost.



Looks like a fine project.

Thanks for info Tim

That's what say indeed the service manual : the T90 was for the Tornado engine only, but if it was a Tornado originally, the serial number would have five digit, not six. So either it's not actually a T90 or it's not the original transmission

Welcome to the land of empty pockets and unfinished projects...



Looks like you found a good one to start on.

Since the motor isn't stock, anything could have been changed.

If it's really a '66 and had an AMC 327 originally, it would have come with the T-85 transmission, not a T-90. It's also a Borg-Warner 3-speed with a non-synchro 1st, but it's considerably stronger than the T-90.



Just FYI. I would check the side of the transmission for casting numbers. These transmissions come with a tag under the top cover bolt, but it's often lost.



Looks like a fine project.

That would be cool. It's so covered in grease that I didn't even bother looking that close. Previous owner said it was a T90, and that's what it looked like to me.



Transmission and transfer case are going to be swapped out anyway. Might not have bothered buying other parts already if I knew it might be a T85. Oh well.



Current plan is to drop in a SM465/NP205 combo with pto winch. I have an 8 lug dana 44 and a dana 60 to swap in as well.

Well, it might be a T-90... somebody may have made a conversion kit to the SBC for the T-85 in the day, but there's no kit available today AFAIK. The Borg-Warner T-85/T-89 was used in a lot of different passenger cars and light trucks in the 50's and 60s, but it's an oddball in the Jeep world.



If it's a T-90, already adapted to a SBC, that has some value. You should be able to sell it.



I'm down with the SM465, but isn't the NP205 kinda huge and hang-down-ish? One of the better characteristics of the Jeep trucks is that the 4WD bits are tucked up into the frame, and the NP205 prompts this mental picture of a Ford or Chevy high-boy with its junk hanging down under the frame.



Not dissing your project - just conversing.

Well, it might be a T-90... somebody may have made a conversion kit to the SBC for the T-85 in the day, but there's no kit available today AFAIK. The Borg-Warner T-85/T-89 was used in a lot of different passenger cars and light trucks in the 50's and 60s, but it's an oddball in the Jeep world.

The conversion kit does look homemade, but the trans really looks like a T90. Of course, I don't know what a 4wd T85 looks like. Pictures on the internet are not easy to find.

If it's a T-90, already adapted to a SBC, that has some value. You should be able to sell it.

My little brother lucked out there. He's got a 1950 Willy's truck that it's going to be dropped into. Even have a chevy 350 out of a suburban for him...

I'm down with the SM465, but isn't the NP205 kinda huge and hang-down-ish? One of the better characteristics of the Jeep trucks is that the 4WD bits are tucked up into the frame, and the NP205 prompts this mental picture of a Ford or Chevy high-boy with its junk hanging down under the frame.

Not dissing your project - just conversing.

Yeah, it's quite a bit bigger than the little Dana 20. Of course, the primary purpose for this rig will be to tow a trailer with my TJ on it. I'd also like to get a camper or canopy at a later date. I'm building for towing strength, and this was the cheap way to do so. I've already got one crazy wheeling rig.

I picked up a donor 3/4 ton '73 chevy for $500. That nets me a trans, t-case, pto & winch, and 8 lug dana 44 parts. As well as a 14 bolt in case the dana 60 I have lined up falls through. Also have bucket seats, or bench seats that are in very nice shape I pulled out the aformentioned suburban.

Total cost of getting this thing cleaned up, painted, and running down the road with heavy axles, and disk brakes all the way around will be just under $3000. Thats including the purchase price of the truck, consumables, and the odd tool I might not have. :drivin:

Of course, I will have to withold on the goodies like a stereo system, ac, digital gauges ect....


This could take more fabrication than I was originally thinking....



Didn't realize that the older jeep trucks had springs outside of the frame. Gonna be a pain I think.



At least there's lots of easy stuff that also needs doing....

Got me some vinyl and fabric paint. Ran out, but it shows the difference.



Almost like new.




Been lax about updates.....

Found a donor parts rig. A 1975 Chevy Pickup with and SM465/NP205, HD44, and 14 Bolt w/ 4.10's.

Here's the bad engine, and good transmission and t-case after I pulled it all in one piece.



Slow and steady....





Welding sheet metal sucks - but I think things will go smoother on the next panel (largely because the metal is thicker and not nearly as rusty.
Primer added to the supports, I really don't want that stuff to rust out later:


Piece of 16 gauge steel cut to shape, and then repeatedly beat with a framing hammer.


Tacking stuff into place....






Some more welding:


Guess badly on the length here, kinda hard to judge when you're still bending things.


Almost done, have a bit more stuff to clean up, and I think it needs to be sandblasted. Hit everything with a coarse flapper wheel, but I think it's still to smooth even with all the scratches.

Looking good! I like that front bumper

take a moment and click on my build link in my sig. I put a K5 HD44 and Jeep D60 under my 68 J3000. You got a can of worms coming my friend Nice truck!

take a moment and click on my build link in my sig. I put a K5 HD44 and Jeep D60 under my 68 J3000. You got a can of worms coming my friend Nice truck!

Awesome man, reading through it now. I've got a thriftside bed from an old willy's truck that I'm installing as well. Looks like our builds will be pretty similar in the end.

Just skimming over (friggin sweet rig!), didn't catch what grit your flap disc is but I have a 120 grit that will leave a mirror finish but a 60 grit that leaves a nice tooth for painting.

Need you a couple more hooker lights for the cab.

let me know if your getting rid of the body lift i could use it on my j200

I'm going to be getting rid of much as is posible, but I think some body lift will have to stay to account for the tall transmission I'm adding as well as a few other things. I've got a 42 gallon 1994 suburban gas tank I'll be adding, and the extra room will be nice.

Just skimming over (friggin sweet rig!), didn't catch what grit your flap disc is but I have a 120 grit that will leave a mirror finish but a 60 grit that leaves a nice tooth for painting.

I think disc I was using was 80 grit. I need to pick up a few more, sounds like the 60 would be nice.

Need you a couple more hooker lights for the cab.

The lights up on top? Yeah, two more might balance things out a bit better. They're all going to need new seals and such as well. Don't want any leaks in the roof after all this work.

How did I miss this?! Nice truck, and looks like you are doing a great job! Wash tht sucker and clear coat it! Petina Is perfect!

If I could have slung the HD44 spring UNDER, I would have..I had clearance issues with the front exhaust crossover on the 327. Sorta looks like your 350 sits low in the bay, but can't really tell. All I can say is design design design measure measure measure before committing to any one portion, and make sure the entire system will clear everything. Also remember that stock FSJ springs are NOT designed to be used SOA. At worse, used ones go inverted right away, at best, they sag out in 6 months. I used rancho lift springs, look at the thickness of those leafs..problem is it sits VERY high, but with stock FSJ springs that seemed fine, the main leaves inverted right away from the weight. And all that was designed around 38" Super Swampers..end tire I really want to run will be about 36" at most due to my gearing.



If those chevy springs are any good, you could set up a SUF..they are designed to run flat/inverted. They're just a bit longer.



just my .02 right or wrong I dunno.

How did I miss this?! Nice truck, and looks like you are doing a great job! Wash tht sucker and clear coat it! Petina Is perfect!

Heh, too late for that, here's what I was up to yesterday:



Not a big fan of rust. The entire cab exterior is going to get coated in truck bed liner. I'm thinking a apocalypse, or maybe foliage green will be awesome.

http://monstaliner.com/forms/monstaliner_colors.htm

If I could have slung the HD44 spring UNDER, I would have..I had clearance issues with the front exhaust crossover on the 327. Sorta looks like your 350 sits low in the bay, but can't really tell. All I can say is design design design measure measure measure before committing to any one portion, and make sure the entire system will clear everything. Also remember that stock FSJ springs are NOT designed to be used SOA. At worse, used ones go inverted right away, at best, they sag out in 6 months. I used rancho lift springs, look at the thickness of those leafs..problem is it sits VERY high, but with stock FSJ springs that seemed fine, the main leaves inverted right away from the weight. And all that was designed around 38" Super Swampers..end tire I really want to run will be about 36" at most due to my gearing.

If those chevy springs are any good, you could set up a SUF..they are designed to run flat/inverted. They're just a bit longer.

just my .02 right or wrong I dunno.

Huh, never thought about exhaust being in the way... I'll have to take a look, but I don't think it's an issue on a 350. I'll probably end up with shorty headers and true dual exhaust.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that in 66 the springs came from the factory SOA. I'll be replacing them anyway, probably going to go with custom springs meant for carrying more weight. This is gonna be a tow pig, not an offroad machine, so 33 ish tires are probably going to be perfect with 4.10's.

yeah, I figured there's gana be a diff. in built being tow vs wheeler..



Hellcreek can do nice custom springs meant for SOA for exactly your truck...all ya have to do is weld on pads to the HD44 then, and figure out shocks. Stock shock towers dont stick out far enough, and it'll be tight welding in shock tabs to clear the spring pads...you'll see. In order to use that axle, you have to get a pass side highsteer knuckle and likely a very high raised arm to clear the spring pack. Any milled and drilled D44 front knuckle off a FSJ will work just fine, or mill the one ya have.



Lookin' good!

what process did you use on the cab?

What you can see in the picture was mostly done with a 7" wire wheel. It took forever, and I'm not that happy with it. The wheel is too slow if you want to get all the primer up (you can see that a lot has been missed).

I've gone back over it with some tiny stripping/finishing discs for an air tool that I found in an old box of stuff, and am much happier. I'll post up some pics tomorrow to show the difference.

I liked the stipping discs so much that I've gone and purchased some larger versions of it that are supposed to last a lot longer and cut faster.

Here's what I ordered.

http://www.zorotools.com/g/Type%2027%20Grinding%20Wheels/00115177/

http://www.zorotools.com/g/Rapid%20Strip%20Discs%20and%20Depressed%20Center%20Wheels/00057188/

Hopefully that stuff will get here next week and I can start on the other side of the cab and the willy's bed that will be added. Maybe I'll take some video of the new discs in action if they perform well.


Here's a quick shot of the job the rapid strip wheels do.



You can see that it does a much better job than the wire wheel, all the paint is gone, and the surface is nicely prepped for primer. I can't wait to get the bigger versions but they won't be here till next tuesday.

I think in the meantime I'll be pulling the dash the rest of the way out and cleaning up all the little nooks and crannies in preparation for paint.

Whoohoo. Some stuff came in early. Gonna give this a try tonight.

[localfiend]

So, I've gotten a whole lot done - but nothing much exciting.

Lots of cleaning, removed every bit of trim, all the paint, and have the undercarriage almost completely cleaned up. I've also done a bunch of body work. Aligning doors, trying to align the hood (that's gonna take some more work). Fixing the large dents, and applying way too much body filler for a beater rig. Welded up a bunch of holes in the body, fixed the front fenders and welded them into the front clip.

No pictures of that stuff yet though, I'm going to wait until I get it ready for paint. I talked my brother out of the bed for his willy's truck, and if everything goes well it will at the very least be sitting on the frame tomorrow.

Junkyard trip to Spokane was successful. Met up with 66stepside and got a bunch of measurements for the frame skirts I will need to fabricate. Had a good time chatting about all things gladiators.

Also picked up the big remaining pieces I need for my upgraded brakes.

What I'm hoping my truck will start to look like:



My collection of emblems is growing. Only have a few more to find, then it'll be time to clean them up, repair the broken ones, and then re-paint.



14 Bolt disc brake conversion brackets:



Everything I need to get the new rear axle bolted up:



My Junkyard goodies. Hydro brake booster from a 2005 Chevy Suburban. Really common chevy part, runs from 02-10, and is in the suburban, sierra, avalanche, escalade, Yukon, and a few others.



I'll need to remove the snap ring, nut, and the original mounting plate:



Which will be replaced by a simple piece of plate sourced from Elliot on ifsja.org:



Which will then bolt to a mount I need to weld up in place of the original master cylinder.





The hydro boost unit linkage should be the exact length I need, but that's easily adjusted by shortening the piece of tube. Bolt hole on the end of the linkage is the correct size to bolt right up to my existing manual brake pedal.


So yeah, lots of parts not yet on the jeep. I've been spending way too much time working on the body, and not enough on everything else that needs to be done. Still hope to get this thing done or at least running again this summer.

[66stepside]

The parts pile is stacking up nicely! I have three bags of jeep enblems (been collecting em awhile). Let me know what you need and I'll see what I have.

Is that brake booster bracket you made?

[localfiend]

The parts pile is stacking up nicely! I have three bags of jeep enblems (been collecting em awhile). Let me know what you need and I'll see what I have.

Is that brake booster bracket you made?

All I have left to collect is a second custom cab emblem, and another J-2000 emblem (I broke one of mine trying to bend it back into place). If you've got either or both of those that'd be awesome.

The brake booster bracket is from Elliot on IFSJA. He cut and shipped the pieces to me. When I get everything lined up I'll weld it together. Thought about cutting them myself, but he already had a bunch cut up in the correct pattern and it was too tempting.

[66stepside]

I'll take a look for those. The custom cab logo is hard to find, those I know I don't have.

[localfiend]

I'll take a look for those. The custom cab logo is hard to find, those I know I don't have.

Yeah, I was amazed that I was able to get one of them. Its actually in really good shape too, doesn't look like it in the picture, but all that garbage is just flaking paint.



Didn't get the willy's bed set in place, but I figured my time would be better spent cleaning as much stuff off the frame and cab as I could while it was outside.



I think I'm going to see if I can't get the rear axle pulled out of the Chevy tonight before it gets dark. Swaping the axle in with everything out of the way will make life a lot easier.

[localfiend]

Was sort of industrious this evening. Mostly I was tired of body work and decided to change things up.

14 Bolts are way too big. Fortunately I can cheat....



Tada!



Unfortunately it wasn't actually that easy. The Chevy is out in a field about 100 yards from the house, and there's a pretty decent hill. I tried various straps and thingamajigs to tow it behind the jeep, but that wasn't working. I decided to push it by hand.

Now, if any of you ever try and push a 14 bolt up a hill by yourself, make sure you have something on your feet with good traction, not a pair of really worn out tennis shoes....

This may or may not have happened:







































But since no one else was there, I'm pretty sure it didn't happen and everything went smoothly.


Anyway, got the axle, spindle nuts, and drum off of one side no problem.



Spindle looks to be in really good shape.




Really glad I bought this thing. Purchased it to bend some AK-47 receivers and never thought I would use it again.... Buying a jeep proved that wrong a long time ago.



Got the hub off with a bit of hammering.



I couldn't find my big brass punch, so before I replace the bearings I decided to work on the other side. Sadly, the drum is kinda stuck, and I ran out of light.

[AwesomeJ10]

Looking good so far!

Post more of the progress!

[66stepside]

Looking good so far!

Post more of the progress!

X2

[localfiend]

Looking good so far!

Post more of the progress!

X2

Heh, working as fast as I can.

Gonna weld up the spring perches, and assemble the disk brakes for my new 14-bolt tonight. If I can find what I did with my brass punch, and the races and bearing come out nicely.



Got some bolt on goodies (well, more bolt on than some of the other garbage I'm doing) in the mail today.

One of my side mirrors was busted, and rather than try and source another ugly mirror I picked up a set of these. New in a really old box. They're really close to the original Jeep approved West Coast Jr. mirrors, with the addition of a wide angle mirror. Being aluminum is also a plus. With a little mount tweaking these should bolt right up.





And some trivia.... When Willy's designed the Rhino chaser grill, they had originally planned to add a set of fog lights inside of the headlights. A bunch of their promotional pamphlets and such, had a second set of headlights. However, no trim rings, or buckets were ever created for the lights for some reason, and a set of tin plates were bolted into place.

I got a guy to adapt my personal/company logo and stick it inside a trim ring. I still need to weld tabs of some sort onto the back so that they can be bolted up, but other than that, the hard work is done. Think I'm gonna add a set of HID foglights behind my new rings.

My logo - Local Fiend Armory (Local Fiend being a childhood nickname, applied to me by a fan of Patrick McManus, books that are required reading for people in the PNW).



And the Rings:

[jaber]

Those are sweet. Nice way to personalize it.

[66stepside]

That does look good. In 1969, or I've seen, jeep offered lights for the bezel plate location as an option, I've only seen it once- on a long bed townside rotting away in a field.

[localfiend]

That does look good. In 1969, or I've seen, jeep offered lights for the bezel plate location as an option, I've only seen it once- on a long bed townside rotting away in a field.

Huh, everything I've ever read said they were never an option. Probably impossible to find the correct buckets if they're so rare though. Seems like everyone likes to let the good stuff rot away.

[66stepside]

In one of my books on jeeps it shows it as an option, or so I recall. I'll dust off the books and see if I can find the source to confirm. I bet Mud89 can either confirm, or deny it as an option. If it's true, they're amont the rarest of jeep accessories.

Your bezels are better- they are slick.

[66stepside]

BostonBob has a set of AZ fenders for sale. He's coming up to Spokane in Sept. to drop off a stepside bed for me. So shipping would probably be free for you.

[jeepsrule1996]

I was just wondering if you could post some pictures of the motor mounts. I'm planning on putting a 350 in my '67 J2000, and I'm gonna build my own and just want an idea on what they look like.