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Ok. Been doing some digging and found an fsm regarding ip starvation due to supply pressure bypassing fuel regulator return valve.
It's a spring loaded ball type valve, over time spring compresses allowing too much fuel to return to tank.
Diagnostic procedure. Pull the valve, check spring length, if not 26-27mm give it a stretch and slap it back in.

I'll have to give this a try first.

All right, no progress yet..
But in order to switch rear.axle i need a rear mounted tank. So I'm thinking of using a 57 bel air 16 gallon. My exhaust is full length inside the frame which takes up some room and that tank should fit well. Going to be ordering soon.

Well after a long debate I've managed to replace my injectors, haven't driven it yet but even after the first startup I have noticed the engine sounds much healthier. Despite the fact that I had lost prime of the fuel system to change the injectors it started up almost immediately after just a bit of cranking. With the old injectors it took quite a bit of cranking as well just to start the motor and that's with the fuel system Primed, so needless to say I'm optimistic hoping to take it for a drive up the hill tonight and see how it does.
fingers crossed...

I wonder how much gunk and build up you could remove if you did a full cycle of biodiesel. Probably make that engine like a spring chicken.

How did it go last night?

Sorry,
Been a bit.
She was improved, but still lacking.

So there was 3 fairy different things happening on this last run.

On previous attempts it either heated up, which was fixed or was just plain gutless.
Of all previous attempts I had a running start at it and it made no difference or not if I downshifted it just didn't want to go.

And of all other previous attempts it was fairly hot outside, this time however it was night time and reasonably cold below 60 degrees as well I had different injectors and there was a wreck at the railroad tracks at the bottom of the hill so I had to start the Hill from at about 25 miles an hour.

Noticeable difference this last time was I was definitely able 2 feel a throttle response and as well I did make it up the hill but it started to poop out towards the crest.

So now I'm thinking I might need to improve upon the air intake temperature and possibly even charge air temperature so that's what I'll start fooling with next Bud right now I'm going to rebuild the Scout rear end got it on the table now.

I really need to be very sure that my rear brakes are dialed in before I get this thing to perform any better I have absolutely no idea what's going on behind those rear drums the only thing I've done to them is bleeding to improve to pedal.

Sorry,
Been a bit.
She was improved, but still lacking.

So there was 3 fairy different things happening on this last run.

On previous attempts it either heated up, which was fixed or was just plain gutless.
Of all previous attempts I had a running start at it and it made no difference or not if I downshifted it just didn't want to go.

And of all other previous attempts it was fairly hot outside, this time however it was night time and reasonably cold below 60 degrees as well I had different injectors and there was a wreck at the railroad tracks at the bottom of the hill so I had to start the Hill from at about 25 miles an hour.

Noticeable difference this last time was I was definitely able 2 feel a throttle response and as well I did make it up the hill but it started to poop out towards the crest.

So now I'm thinking I might need to improve upon the air intake temperature and possibly even charge air temperature so that's what I'll start fooling with next Bud right now I'm going to rebuild the Scout rear end got it on the table now.

I really need to be very sure that my rear brakes are dialed in before I get this thing to perform any better I have absolutely no idea what's going on behind those rear drums the only thing I've done to them is bleeding to improve to pedal.

How do your gear ratios/final drive speeds compare with a stock 300d? I've been researching for a OM606 conversion and it seems these mercedes's like to be geared deep.

Nikkormat wrote:How do your gear ratios/final drive speeds compare with a stock 300d? I've been researching for a OM606 conversion and it seems these mercedes's like to be geared deep.

Like 2:72 deep?

Tall? Wide? Short? Long? Too many terms! Like high number numerically.

tedlovesjeeps71 wrote:

Nikkormat wrote:How do your gear ratios/final drive speeds compare with a stock 300d? I've been researching for a OM606 conversion and it seems these mercedes's like to be geared deep.

Like 2:72 deep?

Nope...but almost as bad!


2:82?

I think they put such tall gears in the Benz cars because the had small tire diameters and people wanted to drive them at 90mph down the Autobahn. Neither applies to my FSJ and I dont think it applies to 230ohc's vehicle either. Lots of final drive calculators online (Grimm Jeeper is my favorite) and I bet finding the sweet spot in an om617 torque band cant be too hard. Does this sound snarky? Honestly not meant to. I have the flu. My point is I dont think MB gear ratios are necessarily relevant. Apples to oranges comparison.

Yes I think gearing may have something to do with the problems I'm having at first I thought I didn't have enough gearing as in I wasn't low geared enough but I'm led to believe that my gearing it may actually be too low (3.73) in comparison to the Mercedes which was around the 2.72 rear end gearing compared with the stock mercedes 25 inch diameter tires which gives you a final drive ratio of 7.8 I believe now where this comes into effect with being too low geared is the injection pump governor. Where the governor will cut fuel at high RPM.

I would think for performance you want the engine at 2500 rpm at 60mph. Wont those little engines rev to 5000?

Ahhlrighty,

Ordered a gas tank to mount in the rear, it's a 57 bel air reproduction.
Kinda small but it should fit, it's 16 gallons which is the most I could ever get in that coffin tank so no big loss. I've got the Scout axle mostly put together having some trouble getting the wheel bearings off shafts so I'm trying to make it tool to make it a little bit easier might take a bit of time specially since I've got no idea what I'm doing setting this thing up so just taking it slow hopefully it'll work out.

What kind of pinion angle should I shoot for when I weld the perches on? I'm still planning on flipping the rear shackles. Do I need to rotate the frame mounts to do that?

rocklaurence wrote:I would think for performance you want the engine at 2500 rpm at 60mph. Wont those little engines rev to 5000?

Yes they are a little more tolerant to slightly higher revs than most older diesels, from what I understand but I clearly don't know much. And this being my first diesel I've still got a lot to learn.
I need to install more monitoring equipment other than temp, boost and oil pressure. Like egt and tach mostly as well iat ant oil temp. I think I'll try to get the tach sorted first. I've got one it's a vdo and the motor has a vdo driver but the tach doesn't have a 5 cyl option so still trying to work that out.

If you're using u-joints on both ends of the drive shaft the pinion shaft should be parallel to the transmission shaft. If the trans points down 5 degrees the pinion should point up 5 degrees.

If you don't have the rear crossmember mounted yet you can play with its position somewhat to minimize u-joint angles. I say somewhat under the assumption that the fronts are done and you don't want to stress them too much.

If you have a CV joint on the trans the pinion should point upward so the driveshaft is parallel to the pinion shaft.

You don't want to weld the spring mounts on the axle until you have the frame mounts finalized. I'm sure you're on top of this but I though I'd mention it.

Thanks sjtd. No cv in the rear, just 2 u joints(one at each end) so equal angle to output it will have to be.

So I made a tool to get the wheel bearings off the axle shafts, worked Allright but I think I sacrificed the half inch fine thread shaft from my small puller, see if it makes it after the second shaft

Almost got the rear end done, pinion pleload was fun...
just need to install pinion seal and retorque everything, set pinion angle and give it a coat of paint.
then the fuel tank relocated.