What do you guys think of this cherokee chief ? Junk or ?

[candymancan]

I cant find any around here.. and im not paying thousands to ship 3000 miles accross country.

A dolly would need thr drive shaft removed wouldnt it because itd quadra trac ?

I mean ill keep looking i guess.. I just been look I ng for months and honestly this is the only thing id be fine with because every other J truck runs and drives.. but the bed is rusted as well and the interior is BEEP.. and ppl want 8-15k$ for their barely running junkers. I also kinda want a 8ft bed. Not 6-7

This one does have a mint interior besides ths floors.. dash isnt warped. Speaker still there.. buttons.. door panels and evrrything on the doors are still there.. Its nice inside actually lol

Its just the dang bed rust and floors that sucks.. blahhh. I know im asking for advice and youre all saying stay away. And im fighting it lol...
.

[tgreese]

You want a cheap FSJ with no rust locally. What they say ... "people in hell want ice water."

Kinda think you need to save your pennies if you want something nicer to start with. Then pay up for the purchase price. J-trucks seem to sell for less than the wagons, when you find them. Maybe they are appreciating - good for me, not for you. Most that are out there were used as trucks and have a lot of wear.

Plus Jeep did not make a lot of them. Ford sells like a million light trucks annually. Jeep probably sold 20 thou tops. The wagons (and CJs) were more popular.

You might look for a different newer vehicle that has not caught the public eye yet. XTerra? Montero? Recent Nissan pickup? Explorer? Just throwing out some names. BTW the IH trucks seem to suffer the tin worm worse than Jeeps ... same oddball problems as Jeep though. The early Ford and Chevy 4x4 trucks seem to be gaining popularity.

Also ... looks like this seller lets these vehicles sit hoping for a buyer to come along that will give them a good price. You want sellers that are motivated to sell now. Will E brought this up previously. Patience plus cash.

[candymancan]

You want a cheap FSJ with no rust locally. What they say ... "people in hell want ice water."

Kinda think you need to save your pennies if you want something nicer to start with. Then pay up for the purchase price. J-trucks seem to sell for less than the wagons, when you find them. Maybe they are appreciating - good for me, not for you. Most that are out there were used as trucks and have a lot of wear.

Plus Jeep did not make a lot of them. Ford sells like a million light trucks annually. Jeep probably sold 20 thou tops. The wagons (and CJs) were more popular.

You might look for a different newer vehicle that has not caught the public eye yet. XTerra? Montero? Recent Nissan pickup? Explorer? Just throwing out some names. BTW the IH trucks seem to suffer the tin worm worse than Jeeps ... same oddball problems as Jeep though. The early Ford and Chevy 4x4 trucks seem to be gaining popularity.

Also ... looks like this seller lets these vehicles sit hoping for a buyer to come along that will give them a good price. You want sellers that are motivated to sell now. Will E brought this up previously. Patience plus cash.

Didnt say i want cheap no rust. I just want CHEAP that runs. I can fix rust

But this is the crap i have in this area.

Look at this listing 8500$ for that pos. Theyre all like this .and the 3 (good ones) are 12,000-15000$. Its insainity haha.

There are like 20 J trucks on market in various states around me.. All like this all like 4000$ with similar rust or worse off interiors. The blue white one is the only (real) cheap running one i found.


Ya thougjt sbout chevy c10s and fords and so forth.. but they wayyyy outa my budget.. and ima Jeep guy


https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/it ... tid=dXMIcH

[sierrablue]

Chevys are pretty cheap; they're the only classic American trucks that made it into Hagerty's "trucks under $10k" list. And the '87-'91 Fords are there too.

That's why you see so many more square bodies than old Fords--they're cheap.

I would say if you're looking for a project, find something with a body that's somewhat decent, and find an LS or something. Not my fav but I'd take it over an AMC drivetrain any day, and it's cheap.

[candymancan]

Na im getting this Jeep i cant sleep lol.. we need it.. anyway. Hauling 7 foot logs for posts we cut down.. wire mesh.. boards.. junk around the property we clean up is tearing up my other Jeeps. My wagoneer tailgate has so much dmg to it now.. and i gatta put pillows on the glass so boards dont shatter it when its rolled down.. its frustrating.

I dont mind if this one has these issues.. floors and rust is easy easy to fix. It has low miles.. it runs.. drives.. 4wd is good. And its free basically. I dont ever use that rifle.. as much as i wanna keep it.

C10s here are overpric3d as well 10k$ plus i dont have 10 or 4k or 8k.

He called me said hes gonna get it running for wh3n i come with the flat bed. He did mention its a quadratrack without low range.

Tbh i never have used low range in any jeep.. ever.. never needed it. So thats ok. He showed me pics of the cabin behind the seat floor is fine. Body mounts come up through there is looks like. Theyre fine.

Frame is actually good in the back too.. but the final cross member needs replaced. Easy to fab one with steel from lowes.

My only worry now though is hauling it in my 90. My 90 aparently actually has factory electronic brakes. Ill need to get an adapter from the 7 pin to 5 pin for the uhaul i think. And im honestly not sure if i should drop my spare tire hitch extender..

And put a normal 2 inch ball receiver on. This extended one says its good for 5000lbs.. which a regular shorter ended one is good for. But i think tje added length will create for leverage on my hitch and frame ?

Or do you guys think itll be ok. Also the trailer is 2200 lbs truck is 4200.. thats 6400 lbs.. Jeep is what rated 5000 ? Hitch is 5000 ? Will it be ok ? Thays one heavy massive hitch.. i dont see how it only has a 5k rating. My jeep weigjs 5300 lbs ao ill be in the 80% range for my vehicle weight to what im pulling.

Here is what im talking about. On my hitch should i remove this. Get a normal short 2 inch ball end. Or can i save my money and keep the extender on


Youll see ill start a build thread.. This Jeep will be awsome when im done with it

[Yeller]

Less leverage is always a good thing when towing, I wouldn’t say it is required but putting a normal length ball mount in would be a good idea. The added length adds to the already long overhang and relatively short wheelbase. As for the cost, barrow one from a neighbor, or around here you can drive down the road picking them up, if you were closer I’d just give you one, probably have a dozen of them. The uhaul will have surge brakes so it just needs lights. Go slow, take your time and it will be fine.

[sierrablue]

My vote would be to get the rear driveshaft pulled and use a dolly. It'd be safer and your Wag would be a lot happier about it.

[candymancan]

Hah if i can find my key for that hitch extender to take it off.. X.x... lol

[candymancan]

Well i got more pics.. turns out the 76 does have bixed rear leaf spring mounts.. not bolt on. And theyre... bad lol.. gatta be rebuilt. Or maybe they sell prebuilt ones ? No odea.. my 90 was bad too paper thin.. so i gatta deal with it again.. thays fine i guess.

The bench seat is in amazing condition though.

[Mopar_guy]

Keep looking. If I were going to pay to have it shipped, I'd find one in much better shape. No or minimal rust, completeness.

Hands down, this is definitely the best advise and way to go.

[thej10guy]

Lots of people with boxed (me included) replace the box with 90’s ranger rear shackle hangers. It’s not that difficult the typical problem is the frame behind the hanger is super bad


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[candymancan]

Ya even my 90 the frame in thr back was bad.. crusty as hell its lrobly 3/4 as thick as it originally was . I pounded handfulls and handfulls of rust off it 6 years ago .. i cleaned it uo and 4 coats kf rust reforners.. 6 years later its still black.

I had ti weld 4 patchs the size kf ny habd bsck there too. I think this ones migjt be worse though.

I dunno i migjt go take the 2 1.2 hour drive to look first.. i csn fix frame rot.. but not if its 1.4 of the frame

[candymancan]

Keep looking. If I were going to pay to have it shipped, I'd find one in much better shape. No or minimal rust, completeness.

Hands down, this is definitely the best advise and way to go.

No or minimal eust is non existant in the east coast unless you have 10-15k$. Its too much to ship accross country. Fuel prices are insaine

[candymancan]

Welp i went to go look.. guy lied.

The frame 75% was in great shape.. but from the rear center axle cross member to the very rear cross member. The frame was THEEE worst ive seen on any vehicle in the past 15 years. I could break chunks off by hand. The Lips on the channle were grass blade thin and could be bent by hand....

The cabin was great though actually. It did run fired right up instantly. And guess what.. it actually had a 401 in it. But unfortunatly that frame rust is far far too much even for me... Guy also came outside drunk And just the whole thing seemed odd. The 401 nearly made me ignore the rust and for 2 1.2 hours driving home. Even now im still considering doing it... as that engine is worth a pretty penny..


Soooo now im looking at this J4000. 360 4 bbl. Some rust here and there.. but this one is a gem beds im fantastic sjape.. the body.. the fender flares... Talking to the owner to get FRAMEEE pics.. proper ones.. so i dont waste my time again.

And well go from there. He got it running rebuilt the carb.. but it sounds like its got some major exhaust leaks or something.. engine doesnt sound right at all. It runs.. no major vibrations from the video.. but it sounds like its breathless. but well see.

[Srdayflyer]

not much left to salvage, but thats all it would be worth, i would check the drivers side frame rail, its probably rusted out or nearly is

[tgreese]

On to the latest candidate, the red/white J4000.

This is the late bed style (central tailgate latch, narrow taillights) and it's a J4000. This says '73. Looks like there's a small amount of rust in the bed seams, which makes sense since the later bed is double-walled, as described earlier.

Realize a '73 will be post-mount and have a closed-knuckle front axle. What's the VIN? Could also be a Quadratrac if it's the lower GVWR version. First year for optional Quadratrac. There's no TSM online that covers the naming scheme for these trucks AFAIK (maybe in the '62-73 parts book). I have the '72 TSM which covers this.

The "J4000" only says that it's a 132" WB, not anything about the GVWR.

There is a J4500, 4600, 4700 and 4800 with GVWRs of 5000, 6000, 7000 and 8000 resp. This is shown in the VIN as W, X, Y, Z resp. Look at the VIN.

The W and X will have Dana 44s f/r and 11" Bendix drum brakes. No parts issues for these.

The Z model has 8-lug wheels, and is easy to spot.

The Y model has the Dana 60-2 rear axle and 12"x2" Bendix brakes. The 60-2 is a good axle, but brake parts are unobtainable. The drums were all gone decades ago. No new, no NOS, no good used. All gone.

Could be a Dana 20 or Quadratrac with an automatic; manual transmission trucks got the Dana 20. No Quadratrac in the Z model, IIRC.

If these are not an issue for you, that's a great looking truck. Go for it. Pay up and get it. Nice truck, and the red/white scheme is very attractive.

If it's actually a J10 or J20, it's '74 or later and even better.

[candymancan]

Here is the vin info. Looks like its the dana 44 version not dana 60. I dont need 60s for hauling 3 tons if gravel.. Just need a good truck that runs.. and can be used on the farm. ( wont trash it i promise)

And more pics. I think hes asking wayy to much at 10,000$ though as it isnt driving yet brakes dont even work either.. But im trying to broker a trade. The cabin top and drain rail up top has some rust.. the floor board ( 1 he said is rotten). And the pinch welds by the vin tag on the body/door area. Are rusty.

Its def a 4000.

[tgreese]

Nice truck. Dana 20 transfer case.

Note I paid $1200 for my J10 and $2000 for my J20. Paid too much for the J10. The J20 was 2010-ish and was an Arizona truck.

I would look around for some comps to show the seller, and make a reasonable offer. $10,000 seems wild to me, but maybe they've gone up that much. I'd think you could spend $8000 on a western/southern truck and $2000 on shipping and be better off.

Maybe figure out what you can afford and offer that, telling the seller you're not lowballing; you really want the truck, and that's what you can afford. Look up "anchoring" in negotiation - resist the seller's initial price.

But this looks pretty nice for a '73. Looks like it's been treated gently for a truck, even with the rust.

Has some bed seam rust (they all do) but you can point that out. Moss/algae means it's been sitting for months/years.

Digging the Easy Rider rifle rack, roof lights and CB antenna. Yeehaw!

[tgreese]

VIN:
J Jeep
3 1973
A Automatic, LHD, Toledo
45 model 131" WB
2 open body Townside
W 5000 GVWR
N 2V 360
47745 sequential serial number, all Jeep production for 1973

[candymancan]

Nice truck. Dana 20 transfer case.

Note I paid $1200 for my J10 and $2000 for my J20. Paid too much for the J10. The J20 was 2010-ish and was an Arizona truck.

I would look around for some comps to show the seller, and make a reasonable offer. $10,000 seems wild to me, but maybe they've gone up that much. I'd think you could spend $8000 on a western/southern truck and $2000 on shipping and be better off.

Maybe figure out what you can afford and offer that, telling the seller you're not lowballing; you really want the truck, and that's what you can afford. Look up "anchoring" in negotiation - resist the seller's initial price.

But this looks pretty nice for a '73. Looks like it's been treated gently for a truck, even with the rust.

Has some bed seam rust (they all do) but you can point that out. Moss/algae means it's been sitting for months/years.

Digging the Easy Rider rifle rack, roof lights and CB antenna. Yeehaw!

Oh i know ho2 it goes.

I already spoke to him on the phone. I said i can only afford this. Im willing yo trade (these guns) gabe him a huge list.. frankly its like 4000$ worth of guns and ammo.. some i dont wanna trade.. one is rarer than this truck.

I alao told him im not trying to low ball. But your engine doesnt run right. You have no brakes at all. It isnt a driver. It needs work to be road worthy. The floor is rotted. HE initially wanted 25k and went to 10k before i contacted him.. he said he thinks its worth 10k due its condition.. possibly i said but the ones on fb marketplace.. actually run and drive and arent rusty either.. and those people want 6-8k. One even has a 401 in it.

Told him i really want. And need this truck.. i have 3 Jeeps i showed him my wagoneer.. which he said is his dream car and hes jeleous now lol. Told him itd be parked in my barn/shop. Not sitting in qeather.. and id fix it up and use it sttictly for hauling hay and misc items.

Well see what i can work out. Im willing to trade for 4000$ worth of guns and ammo and holsters/carry bags.. but nothing more.

You sure its dana 20 ? Its an automatic. Not manual trabsmission.


Also for the vin. The engine is a 360 4bbl. I saw the carb and intake pics he tooks on his carb rebuilt attempt. So either the vin is wrong.. or it had an engine swap or a carb upgrade at one point