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Well, a loud whining noise remained and after installing a manual linkage to the T-case I have no ability to shift. I guess I gabled wrong on the shift detent thing…

Popped out the T-case to find extensive metal shavings and fouled/damaged input bearings.. maybe they were bad and I missed it but rebuilding it but I’ll be replacing all the bearings and trying again.

Hopefully tires, fresh battery and some electronics repair before baby. 3 months left on this race.


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Did you end up going open or locked in the t-case? I wouldn't worry about it if it's whining in 4wd Hi/Lo. They usually do that on a part-time case, I would expect the full-time to be quieter.

You gonna install rear shoulder belts so you can properly have a car seat in it? Or is yours one of the (rare) ones that got that factory option?

I ended up removing the pins to keep it a full time case, it was a clear bearing whine. I think I will keep it open too, as the off-road will be very light.

Rear seats are belts only. I’ll likely fabricate a bracket to facilitate a 3-point belt/car seat. But until I figure out this last noise and find tires there’s no family in this rig. Plus 11,000 other little problems. As is owning an FSJ


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Well, a month later I've gotten all the new bearings and finally got a day to try and reassemble it again. For the life of me I don't know why I couldn't get it to shift at all before. I can't find anything helpful online and the TSM is super vague on this whole detent situation. I can't imagine it would go together any other way so I guess I'm going to reassemble it again and try to shift it on the bench again. This t-case has taken more of my time than anything on this whole jeep. What a PIA.

Well, sometimes thing just work out. Put the first mile or two on the jeep in 20 years. Tires are rotted out so I haven’t gone far but it ran strong and smooth.

I need to helicoil one exhaust head bolt that makes it sound terrible but overall a huge milestone.

Also installed the rock Laurence manual shifter as well. The throw between 2 and 4 is like 1/2”. Definitely need to look into it further, but overall a huge milestone




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That's awesome!!!!

It's sweet that you put the mechanical shift linkage on it--that vacuum was always what I hated about the '88 tcase.

I'm gonna be totally honest, when you said "2 and 4 are right next to each other," I really thought you had a manual transmission somehow. I was like "but the pics are of a 727, what did I miss???"

That is such good news.

Keeps me going to do the same with mine soon too

Good job!

Thanks guys, yeah the manual shifter for the np229 has a SUUUUPPER short throw that makes me worried about bumping it into 4 wheel. I may need to drill a new hole higher on the lever to make the throw further as there’s no gating or anything.

Getting motivated to chase down little issues again.

I suspect something is wrong with the indicator lever on the column, I’ve heard it can cause issues with the side indicators and running lights. All of which do not work and had about a year ago. Hazard switch and light switch work as well.

Gotta learn how to properly use all these multimeter settings to figure out these little issues.


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Lol first guess, the janky Walmart radio was the draw


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Next electrical bug to dig into, I suspect the multifunction switch...
But the side indicators used to work and now do not. Front and rears do as well but I have no running lights and high beams are not working now either.... any other culprits for this? No blown fuses that I see....

Update: How do I decrypt this? It looks like this one ground is related to all my exterior lighting issues.... "Left front sheet metal" is super vague.

Decrypt? What don't you understand? Ground is ground. The Jeep uses the body steel as a ground conductor, so any connection to the body goes back to the battery negative terminal. This drawing/diagram is quite explicit in depicting the ground connectors to the body steel.

Follow the wires. Gathering the wires together for a single connector does not change anything electrically. Pick one of the grounds and follow it to where it connects to the body steel. One of the wires that does not go to splice E1, like the right park and turn lamp. Black seems like a universal color for ground here.

I guess I meant the 99 - 12bk. I only found one ground in that general area that sounded similar. Wasn’t sure if that code meant something specific or an exact location.

I’m pretty illiterate with electrical, I can read basic construction drawings and so on but I’m a little lost troubleshooting this


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99 is the circuit number. It's a black 12 ga wire. Usually there is a table in the TSM adjacent to the diagrams that goes from the circuit description (circuit 99) to the diagram. Suggest you trace from one of the light fixtures to find it.

Well, the lights working, turned out to be the ground and switch to get them back in order. However the side markers still do not blink. A step in the right direction.

I also finally got the front two windows on the relays and replaced flex tracks. Took the Jeep for another little spin and found coolant steadily flowing from the exhaust. Big sad, no coolant in the oil, just cylinder to exhaust. Had to tear down the top end and get the heads off. No super obvious damage, but I used a cheap rebuild kit from BJ's I think that I think every gasket has had to be replaced on so that's what I get for cheaping out. New gaskets arrive tomorrow, hopefully I can marathon back through this assembly so she doesn't sit too long.

With the first head clean I’m measuring a flatness of less than 0.004”. I need to look up the serviceability criteria and also measure the block, but my gut says that this was a gasket issue not a flatness issue

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The side markers don't blink. You can wire it like this to make it blink, but stock it's not gonna blink. For whatever reason it won't let me post the pic but it's on this page of wim's build.

viewtopic.php?t=20501&start=180

Some of the side markers flash, but maybe not in '89. Looking at the diagram above, it seems that the side markers are in parallel with the running lights via circuit 72 18BL (blue) which comes from sheet 45. On this Jeep, are the regular turn indicators visible from the side?

Suggest you do not pay much attention to the drawing in the post above, because the OP (Wim) is using a fancy turn indicator that grounds the indicators, DRLs and fog lamps together. DIFFERENT from original, and was causing his problem. You might learn something from the thread if you read it through and understand the issues, but pretty sure it's not directly relevant to your problem.

Very hard to diagnose something like this without the Jeep in front of you. Suggest you trace out the circuits and measure voltages and resistances with your multimeter.

Well, very delayed update, engine back together and hit the road again for some test drives. All seems to be good, other than a weeping wheel cylinder.

I snagged a good-ish deal on some 31x10.50 Atturo trail blare AT’s (falken AT trail knockoff) to get this thing driving more to get it learning more. It seems like all my electrical issues are taken care of, or at least figured out for later and will tackle them as I feel like it.

Floors and interior will be my next priority. With a baby coming this weekend I expect very, very slow progress this next year


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