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On where to weld, that takes some figuring and measuring, trial and error, and with clamps on, a few test fits of the motor. And keep tract of your angles.
Note the location of the new mounts. They interfere with 1 of the 3 bolts locations for the shock tower mounts. You could drill through the new mounts, but for now I opted to weld in the shock tower mounts and 2 bolts.
1983 CJ7 Renegade "Stella"
1977 Cherokee Chief WT "Moytoy" (current project: engine start next step)
1967 Super Wag (next up)
1969 J3600 "El Presidente"
1983 Wagoneer "Hulu"
1979 and 1980 Wags ... for parts
2014 JKUR "Ruby"
I ordered my original mount for a 77 FSJ from BJ's Offroad. They were relying on same information the likes of GAJeep94YJ was using for his 79 Chief.
A thank you to Ryan at BJ's is in order, as even though I bought the mounts >2 years ago, he is going to credit me for the cost of the correct mounts. With the re-install completed, no complaints on the end result and the ability to adjust is real nice.
1983 CJ7 Renegade "Stella"
1977 Cherokee Chief WT "Moytoy" (current project: engine start next step)
1967 Super Wag (next up)
1969 J3600 "El Presidente"
1983 Wagoneer "Hulu"
1979 and 1980 Wags ... for parts
2014 JKUR "Ruby"
The transmission is a late model case 4L80E. The late model case has the bolt hole at the 12 o'clock position (LS engines do not have a mount location in the passenger side cylinder head - and don't tap one there either!).
This was sourced from Jake's Transmission in Sanger, Texas. All I will say about Jake's is that they are the real deal when it comes to performance 4L80E. Check them out http://www.jakesperformance.com/
The converter is also from Jake's and shipped separately.
Jake's requires you to send in photographs of various installation steps to trigger the warranty. The two biggest issues they find are (1) bad install of dipstick / wrong dipstick and (2) wrongly relying on the '3 click' method for verifying that the converter has fully engaged with the oil pump.
The top fill line of your dipstick should be even with the oil pan mounting flange:
The recommendation is to be off center by @ 1.25" favoring the driver's side to help the front driveshaft clear the transmission. These next picks are right at 1.25" towards driver side.
1983 CJ7 Renegade "Stella"
1977 Cherokee Chief WT "Moytoy" (current project: engine start next step)
1967 Super Wag (next up)
1969 J3600 "El Presidente"
1983 Wagoneer "Hulu"
1979 and 1980 Wags ... for parts
2014 JKUR "Ruby"
I have room to raise it up, in two steps, for a total of @ 2". But if everything clears, I'll keep it here to keep the center of gravity down low in the frame. I still have 7" of pan to axle / center housing clearance at this location (using a 4" BDS).
The next fab step is going to be a headache ... building a crossmember. This photo is with the OEM in place just to hold up the back of the transmission and transfer case. There's tons of room on the driver's side for the transmission linkage and the exhaust, but it will be awkward on the passenger side where the driveshaft, 241C shift linkage and exhaust need to fit. The transfer case front output shaft is behind the wood block / crossmember.
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
Rory wrote:Do you foresee any interference between the pass. side exhaust and the front driveshaft?
Rory - there will be room, but need to sort out TC shift linkage first, mock up some exhaust tubing and them build the crossmember. Appears I need at least 2.5 inch tubing.
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1983 CJ7 Renegade "Stella"
1977 Cherokee Chief WT "Moytoy" (current project: engine start next step)
1967 Super Wag (next up)
1969 J3600 "El Presidente"
1983 Wagoneer "Hulu"
1979 and 1980 Wags ... for parts
2014 JKUR "Ruby"
SJTD wrote:Is a reclocking ring available for the 241C?
I don't know what's available as far as clocking ring, but which way would I go? If up then driveshaft would hit starter or pan and if down it would put it too low for ground clearance. This looks like the right spot just need to build a good crossmember.
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
1983 CJ7 Renegade "Stella"
1977 Cherokee Chief WT "Moytoy" (current project: engine start next step)
1967 Super Wag (next up)
1969 J3600 "El Presidente"
1983 Wagoneer "Hulu"
1979 and 1980 Wags ... for parts
2014 JKUR "Ruby"
Hard to say from the picher but it looked like up would help because the axle yoke looked pretty far back. Also up would move the rear of the shaft outward.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
I used 1/8" thick rubber that came in a 12' foot length to make up the edge seals for the core support and inner fenders.
I used the OEM piece to make the patterns for the core support seals. The OEM used staples; I used stainless screws and washers at 5" intervals. I also ran some 3M strip caulk sealer and pressed it flat with a roller (from the Dynamat install).
For the inner fenders, this is before I trimmed it up, but I did leave wider than the OEM to get a better seal and it did bend in nicely into the fender once installed.
Tomorrow I'll get the hood on it while there's some extra hands around during the holiday.
After that, I need to estimate how much weight I need to add into the Chief to simulate all the glass, interior, fluids, etc. so I can weigh her down and get some measurements and angles for the driveshafts. And yea, need to mock up a crossmember.
1983 CJ7 Renegade "Stella"
1977 Cherokee Chief WT "Moytoy" (current project: engine start next step)
1967 Super Wag (next up)
1969 J3600 "El Presidente"
1983 Wagoneer "Hulu"
1979 and 1980 Wags ... for parts
2014 JKUR "Ruby"
SJTD wrote:Hard to say from the picher but it looked like up would help because the axle yoke looked pretty far back. Also up would move the rear of the shaft outward.
SJTD - thanks for the input, I went back after putting the body panels on to look at the 241C front output to front axle yoke, and you were right, it would benefit quite a bit if I could get the 241C clocked up say 1 to 2 hours (if it's currently at the 4 o'clock position, something between 2 o'clock to 3 would be good). I found these two vendors:
Why do mfg clock the bolt pattern anyway ... to avoid mechanic confusion? Seems we would have a lot more flexibility if just standard spacing in the bold pattern.
1983 CJ7 Renegade "Stella"
1977 Cherokee Chief WT "Moytoy" (current project: engine start next step)
1967 Super Wag (next up)
1969 J3600 "El Presidente"
1983 Wagoneer "Hulu"
1979 and 1980 Wags ... for parts
2014 JKUR "Ruby"