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Looking good!
Did you ever find out why your Novak engine mounts wouldn't fit correctly?
Also, did you mount your engine in the forward-most position on the mounts, center, or rear-most?
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1988 Grand Wagoneer, , 6" on 33x12.5 BFG M/Ts & Mickey Thompson Classic wheels
Currently undergoing a 5.3/6L80E/NP241C swap!
You can view my Build/Work In Progress thread by clicking HERE!
ShawnQ I was on your thread earlier you are making nice progress yourself.
Good question about the mounts I never found out why I had such an issue but we had a solution with the steel washer. If I remember correctly I have the engine sitting as far back as it will go, the rear most holes.
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Matt
1978 J10 5.3L/700r4/QT swap in progress.....
37x14.50R15 TOYO Open Country MT
4.56 Gears
6" BJs springs w/ BJs offroad shackles in front & 2" blocks in rear to level.
3" body lift
I think This pic you posted of the troublesome driver's side mount looks like you have the engine in the forward-most holes. I am assuming the rear of the engine is on the left of the pic? If not, im backwards
I may go all the way forward with mine to give myself more clearance at the firewall.
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1988 Grand Wagoneer, , 6" on 33x12.5 BFG M/Ts & Mickey Thompson Classic wheels
Currently undergoing a 5.3/6L80E/NP241C swap!
You can view my Build/Work In Progress thread by clicking HERE!
I was looking at your price spreadsheet and I have the same kind of balance for my upcoming 6.2 diesel swap. The engine cost is 10% or less, which is depressing. I have to remind myself that I'm getting a rebuilt engine out of the deal and to compare my swap costs to what it'd take to rebuild my AMC V8. It still doesn't justify the cost, but makes me feel a little better.
Did you come up with a plan for that front driveshaft yet? I'm not trying to burst your $5k bubble, but I don't see a placeholder on your cost list yet. You can tell I'm selfishly watching your build to get an answer about the clearance with the tranny pan...
'78 Waggy: 401/QT pulling the rust down the road. 6.2L +turbo waiting in the wings.
ShawnQ the top of the picture os the front of the motor. The silver ports at the top are the ports for the heater coolant hoses. I forgot I had that picture, so I do have the motor in the rear most holes.
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Matt
1978 J10 5.3L/700r4/QT swap in progress.....
37x14.50R15 TOYO Open Country MT
4.56 Gears
6" BJs springs w/ BJs offroad shackles in front & 2" blocks in rear to level.
3" body lift
TrenchFoot you are correct I need to add a place holder for that driveshaft. I'm also not including gauges and interior work as part of this swap. That will blow my $5k out of the water.
You are correct about engine cost I spent an awful lot of upgrades but I figure that I learned a lot by doing it and now know the ins and outs of my motor so I'm not too upset with the cost.
With my front driveshaft I was hoping to flip the shaft but the holes don't line up with my axle yoke (of course that would be too easy). I have a local driveshaft shop that I'm planning on getting a quote from them to build me a new shaft unless they can provide me with a cheaper solution.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Matt
1978 J10 5.3L/700r4/QT swap in progress.....
37x14.50R15 TOYO Open Country MT
4.56 Gears
6" BJs springs w/ BJs offroad shackles in front & 2" blocks in rear to level.
3" body lift
The start of the weekend kicks off with 1 step forward and 2 steps back. I worked on situating the harness on the intake and engine. When I bought the motor the MAP sensor on top of intake was broken off. The gasket and tab were still in the intake. While removing the broken piece it decided to fall into the intake. Had no choice so I had to pull intake removed piece and was thrilled to find out the intake is caked with carbon buildup. So I spent a decent amount if time tonight trying to clean it as best I could. I'm thinking a new intake manifold might be in my future
Where MAP sensor lives
You can see the nasty carbon build up on throttle body
More to come tomorrow.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Matt
1978 J10 5.3L/700r4/QT swap in progress.....
37x14.50R15 TOYO Open Country MT
4.56 Gears
6" BJs springs w/ BJs offroad shackles in front & 2" blocks in rear to level.
3" body lift
msh227 wrote:Worked on truck today. Plan was to get transmission, transfer case, and trans cross member in truck at a minimum. Well like always ran into a minor issue, it appears the bolt pattern on the 700 matches the 5.3L but there was no hole at the 2 oclock position on the 5.3L. So i drilled and tapped the block, to make sure it all lined up properly we installed the transmission to mark the hole then removed trans, drilled and tapped block then re-install transmission.
Next time will be QT and cross member install.
You can see the hole is missing:
Drilled and tapped:
Prepped to cut tail shaft:
QT adapter installed:
You've got a sweet build going. Real nice. There are a couple of option on hooking up the overdrive feature on the tranny, so what did you do to set up the overdrive option on the 700R4?
I left my Haynes manual at my house and I'm in need of the ignition wiring schematic. Trying to wire up my PCM today. Can anyone help or post the schematic? If not it will have to wait until tomorrow. Thanks.
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Matt
1978 J10 5.3L/700r4/QT swap in progress.....
37x14.50R15 TOYO Open Country MT
4.56 Gears
6" BJs springs w/ BJs offroad shackles in front & 2" blocks in rear to level.
3" body lift
1988 Grand Wagoneer, , 6" on 33x12.5 BFG M/Ts & Mickey Thompson Classic wheels
Currently undergoing a 5.3/6L80E/NP241C swap!
You can view my Build/Work In Progress thread by clicking HERE!
1988 Grand Wagoneer, , 6" on 33x12.5 BFG M/Ts & Mickey Thompson Classic wheels
Currently undergoing a 5.3/6L80E/NP241C swap!
You can view my Build/Work In Progress thread by clicking HERE!
1988 Grand Wagoneer, , 6" on 33x12.5 BFG M/Ts & Mickey Thompson Classic wheels
Currently undergoing a 5.3/6L80E/NP241C swap!
You can view my Build/Work In Progress thread by clicking HERE!
msh227 wrote:Thank you. Not sure I understand your question. Are you referring to the fact that I won't be able to fully shift into 1st gear on my gear selector?
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I am not sure I understand it either, lol. Your tranny (700r4) has an overdrive for reducing RPMs at highway speeds . I've seen two ways guys alter the overdrive mechanism for a manual switch to overdrive, or wire up a system that works off the throttle/brake pedal. If what I've heard about the overdrive feature is true, what's your plan?
It could be that I am way off on the subject. I am thinking of the using the 700R4 on the 62 project.
The 700 is a manually operated OD transmission that regulates the pressure of the shift points with a TV cable. So all I need to do is throw it in Drive and I have a 4 speed transmission.
Does that help? I'm not aware of any method to alter the OD. Maybe some other guys can chime in?
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Matt
1978 J10 5.3L/700r4/QT swap in progress.....
37x14.50R15 TOYO Open Country MT
4.56 Gears
6" BJs springs w/ BJs offroad shackles in front & 2" blocks in rear to level.
3" body lift
I think the big choice with a 700r4 swap is not with how to get the OD to work (its an auto, it'll happen automagically if the TV cable is adjusted right) but how to get the torque converter to lock up. My understanding is that depending on which year valve body is used, it can happen automatically. Or you can wire it up and lock it up manually. At a minimum they all will lock up in 4th, but some will lock up in 3rd too (stock). And if you wanna be the cool kid in class, you can get it to lock up in 1-2-3-4 if you wire it that way. Right?
So, how are you gonna wire it up to lock up?
'78 Waggy: 401/QT pulling the rust down the road. 6.2L +turbo waiting in the wings.