Money Badger is DONE! No, not really. You know better.

[REDONE]

I only question if you might get equal reliability results for the same money and less work by installing aftermarket axle shafts?

Definitely, and if I were a smarter man that's probably what I'd do except last time I shopped axles, nobody made them long enough for the drivers side. That might have changed since then but I tried ordering a set from Moser once and they called me to tell me my order was cancelled because they don't have blanks that long. As it stands right now, I'm pretty stoked about the "adventure" factor in this project, and I'm mostly using the lock-out-hub-as-a-fuse angle to justify it, even though at this point it's just because I want to.

[Jerry Blair]

As it stands right now, I'm pretty stoked about the "adventure" factor in this project, and I'm mostly using the lock-out-hub-as-a-fuse angle to justify it, even though at this point it's just because I want to.

Lol. IMO that is one of the very best reasons!

[scorge30]

Jerry Blair makes a good point - for me I think I would be better off with some good aftermarket shafts, delete the vacuum disconnect, and then weld and truss my front D44.

As much as I would love to run 42s or something larger, I do not need to for my wheeling applications. Despite the cool factor, my wallet could not afford the 42s and the resulting breakage. I am probably going to stick with 33s for now.

As much as I would love to go SOA with a full TT's Fabworks shackle flip and SOA kit, that is going to be a project far in the future for now, if ever. I am a pretty mild wheeler who prefers to run around on the old Forest Service roads so I do not need a crazy built machine.

As much as I think building a crazy built HP D60 from an old one ton truck and slapping it in the front of my Chero, I just do not think that for me it is practical.

I still keep a look out for a HP D60 front axle when I am at the local Pull a Part just in case. I also haunt Craigslist. I missed out on an old late '70s F350 on Craigslist because I just did not have the cash at the time. I see HP D60s on Ebay occasionally, but they are usually somewhere on the East Coast. By the time you pay for the axle and freight shipping, you have spent some serious coin.

The adventure factor is one of the best reasons to modify your FSJ. I find that I enjoy doing something different than all the other Jeeps out there.

[REDONE]

Jerry Blair makes a good point - for me I think I would be better off with some good aftermarket shafts, delete the vacuum disconnect, and then weld and truss my front D44.

As much as I would love to run 42s or something larger, I do not need to for my wheeling applications. Despite the cool factor, my wallet could not afford the 42s and the resulting breakage. I am probably going to stick with 33s for now.

As much as I would love to go SOA with a full TT's Fabworks shackle flip and SOA kit, that is going to be a project far in the future for now, if ever. I am a pretty mild wheeler who prefers to run around on the old Forest Service roads so I do not need a crazy built machine.

As much as I think building a crazy built HP D60 from an old one ton truck and slapping it in the front of my Chero, I just do not think that for me it is practical.

I still keep a look out for a HP D60 front axle when I am at the local Pull a Part just in case. I also haunt Craigslist. I missed out on an old late '70s F350 on Craigslist because I just did not have the cash at the time. I see HP D60s on Ebay occasionally, but they are usually somewhere on the East Coast. By the time you pay for the axle and freight shipping, you have spent some serious coin.

The adventure factor is one of the best reasons to modify your FSJ. I find that I enjoy doing something different than all the other Jeeps out there.

Scorge, do what you got to do brotha', I'll be in SnoCo for a few more months and will help any way I can, and hope to sling some dirt with you before I go!

I talked to Moser and they can do shafts for us up to 37" (offset J-10 driver side is 34.48" from the end of the carrier splines to the WHEEL MOUNTING SURFACE, I know because I own a measuring tape, a bubble level, and said shaft) but it will be a back order, since pretty much what they get, they cut as soon as it comes in for more common sizes (the mans own words). What's funny is I asked about double splined ends and got the "oooeewwwww. I'll have to see....", haha! I told him not to lose any sleep over it and that I'd call him back when the time comes. After all, I got a plan.

[REDONE]

Now don't any of you suckers go getting a big head, but I DID go dig out my actual digital camera for these pics, just for y'all.

I feel a confession coming on. You know how I said in passing up above that "If I decide I want to jump my j-truck I'll truss the axles, hahaha." .

I'm a big fat liar. I've caught some air. More than once. On purpose. I used to race when I was in my early 20's and still got the feel for it! Seriously, don't ever loan me your Jeep.

I thought I was landing pretty good. I knew I bottomed out the shocks a few times, but overall, I was landing on throttle, good heel-toe weight dist, thought I was in the clear so long as I didn't crack the frame. Good news is I didn't crack the frame. But I guess blocks were a bad idea.


It got me where I wanted to be height wise, but it's clear they gotta go. Looks like the typical "project-compounding" has started, haha! Thinking about the Ranger shackle flip with some home-fab front hangers is going to be in the mix, but the plus side is that the whole axle can come out for a good cleaning and repaint...possible truss while I'm at it.

[AwesomeJ10]

Looks like you need a traction bar, especially if you're gonna run it hard.

[REDONE]

Keep stealing my punchlines, see what it gets you!

But in all seriousness, thanks for the pics. There's lots of crazy ideas in my head and I just started to think about possible solutions. Your truck is legendary (I have the mag your in) and I'll take all the ideas I can get!

[AwesomeJ10]

LOL

I don't think so, but thanks for the compliments.

My advice is to think about the build end-to-end. Define your goals and then list out what it takes to get there.

Your going to need to do some rear suspension work and fix that block. Maybe it's time to find some springs that will lift it (so u can get rid of the block) or fix the block and add a traction bar. As previously discussed in this thread, maybe it's time to re-examine those axles. Flint broke a SF D44 (on the hwy) on 35's. It coulda been uglier than it was. Others have chimed in on that too. I always recommend FF 8 lug. Find some J20 axles if ya wanna stay 'stock'. There are lot's of yards (around here) that sell complete axle assemblies for around $100. I'm planning to meet a couple of guys from this board (Jason and Ethan) at the yard this weekend and I may con 'em into helping me grab a 14bolt for the waggy (to replace the D60). Of course that means you gotta swap wheels and tires and that ain't cheap.

Don't forget to get some GOOD shocks too. I'm keeping my eye on some Fox 2.0's and hope to score a deal one day on 'em....

Keep up the good work!

[REDONE]

Thanks Blake. Thinking about the build end-to-end is a recent development. I just set out to eliminate the D44 wheel bearing failure point which was formost on my mind BECAUSE flint just crapped his second or third one since I've known him. I saw Carnucks honcho do the same in real life but that was before he owned it. Right in front of me, the rear passenger side tire slid out a foot, when back in, the driver hit his brakes and it came all the way out.

I've been really happy with the truck this last year over all. Fixed the small driveability issues with the engine and was just looking to toughen it up a little so I wouldn't be so worried about an expensive failure in Ouray this year. The locker was just pure dumb luck, how do you pass up a brand new Grizzly for $300! Of course they just stuck me today when I picked up the install kit at $200 (I also needed the bushings for the locker ring gear bolt holes, adapt 7/16" to 3/8"). The flex and ride both on and off road has been more solid and confident than I remember any of my Dodge race trucks being. Way less squishy and a little more flexy.

All I was doing was tearing down the rear end to figure out measurements for the full float D44 conversion and as soon as I popped the backing plate off is when I saw my shocks smashed against the axle tube. Even took me a few seconds to realize my blocks were squished, haha!

At the very least I ordered these from Summit today to get rid of my rotten spring hangers and the blocks.




It's been a long day, but if I get the gumption tonight I'm going to start soaking the rear suspension bolts, move the jackstands under the frame, and work on tearing down the axle to a bare housing tonight. I won't get to pickn'pull until saturday to hunt down some spindles, hubs and brakes, but hopefully I can do that early enough on Saturday to get to the machine shop to have the spindle bosses turned down to fit where the wheel bearings used to be in the D44 rear housing.

[REDONE]

Just a quick update. Cancelled my order with Summit. Autozone had the rear hangers in stock for immediate pick-up and the fronts two days out vs. five. Also, was $81.60 total opposed to $104 shipped.

[scorge30]

I have had trouble with Vatozone losing my orders. I ordered MSD wires and I bet someone sold them to someone else in the store or put them on the shelf. I have had the same problem with O'Reilies too. I have never had a problem with Summit. It is nice to get something in hand now though rather to have to wait.

[sgtpoliteness]

Axle pulling tomorrow?!

[REDONE]

I have had trouble with Vatozone losing my orders. I ordered MSD wires and I bet someone sold them to someone else in the store or put them on the shelf. I have had the same problem with O'Reilies too. I have never had a problem with Summit. It is nice to get something in hand now though rather to have to wait.

I'm pretty good at being remembered at all the parts places here. I get most of my BS from Pepboys on Everett Mall Way because it's on my way home from work. I get most of the "special order" normal parts (bearings, gaskets) from Autozone by WalMart on Evergreen or the O'reilly's down closer to Harbor Freight. I try to support local business/local people, but not to a fault. I mainly order from the internet (Summit/Jegs/BJs) when it's something I can't get locally (FSJ specific parts) or significantly over priced locally (high performance stuff). I tried to support Baxter/Action because they're a local chain, but couldn't do it at their mark-up.

Axle pulling tomorrow?!

Haha! I'd love to pull on my Sorels and meet up with you guys tomorrow, but I'm four states away up and to the left of you!

I did go junkyarding today though, and scored the majority of what I need to full float my D44! Complete D44 front outers from a G-wag with drive slugs, only missing the calipers and dust caps. Hopefully the spindles will go to the machine shop on monday, once those come back I can dry fit the housing together and get measurements for shafts.

[scorge30]

I like to support the local guys too but sometimes it is just impossible. I hit Olympic 4X4 out in Snohomish quite often. Sometimes if I cannot find it anywhere else I can get it at Olympic. The only bad thing about Olympic is they pull the parts and do not let you wander around seeing what goodies there may be. Prices at Olympic can be a bit steep as well but they have a good selection and pull the part for you (good or bad).

I like the Pick & Pulls because they do not mind someone wandering around looking for treasures and when I pull the parts, I ensure that I get all the little bits and parts. Last time at Olympic I had to send the guy back three times to ensure I got all the fasteners and connectors. Only bad thing about the Pick & Pulls is they do not usually allow the flame wrench, but with battery powered cut off grinders now so good that has not been an issue.

Last time I pulled an axle out of wreck I used a battery cut off grinder and brought 5 fully charged Li-Ion batteries. Chop through the u-bolts, chop the u-joint bolts, chop the pitman arm, and the axle pretty much drops out without having to try to break free rusted bolts.

[REDONE]

Only thing I've ever had to cut on a J/Y axle pull was the freekin' e-brake cables. I have a gnarly 3/4" drive 32" breaker bar and socket set that snaps anything I can look at.

My spindles will be done by the weekend, stand by for pics of awesomeness!

[scorge30]

Pulling axles and other bits out of Pick & Pull yards I have snapped so many sockets, extensions, box end wrenches, and ratchet wrenches that the local Sears in Everett knows me by face and name.

Because of injury and illness I am now disabled (100% from the Army and VA) so I have not the physical ability to use a wrench like I used to. I had to rethink my whole process as a disabled person to acquire bits from the yards. You can imagine how hard it is as a disabled person not able to lift more than 45 pounds to wrestle a heavy engine, tranny (from a vehicle not the kind that walks around Denny Way), and axles from a wreck.

I use my impact and cut off grinder a lot more than I used to because I do not have the strength to either break bolts loose or tighten them properly any more. Sometimes I can coerce a friend to come along. But I usually feel like the old Infantry Sergeant I used to be when looking for volunteers for some BEEPY task - can't find a damn soul.

[REDONE]

Well it's been too long since an update. My computer activity has been pretty idle, but my real life activity has not. I am now relocated back to my home state of Colorado! And I've been dinking on the Jeep since I got here.

First thing I did doesn't deserve pics because you can't see it, but I goofed around with the Holley until it seemed to like the altitude. Dropped down to size 63 jets and switched to the black spring for the vacuum secondaries. Also found Money Badger likes ported vacuum to the dizzy up here.

Next gets some pics, I switched to electric cooling. The flex fan worked great at keeping the engine cool, the problem I had was trying to do any kind of acoustic diagnosis over the noise of the fan. Listening for a ping, valve tick or exhaust leak is purely notional when you have a flex fan. Now I'm running 2 14" Hayden s-blade fans, one as a pusher and one as a puller. They're switched with a Derale kit that included one relay and one non-adjustable temp switch. Initial testing shows that the fans move plenty of air. at 190* the temp switch trips the relay, the fans come on and the thermostat does it's thing keeping the temp between 190-200F. Climbing hwy 285 all the way past Conifer to Bailey the temp never went over 200. Driving around town in stop and go traffic on 90* day, never over 200*. I'm satisfied so far, and in the near future will wire in a on-off-on switch at the dash to override the temp switch for both off and on.




Right now I'm working on updating the interior a little bit. I've made new door panels out of pegboard and covered them in a nice black and tan plaid. I've got the headliner just about reworked in black denim with pearlescent snap buttons holding it onto the board. Also extended my t-case shifter. The 2hi detent is kinda shot so I got creative dealing with that too.

[Gumby]

Well I am happy that you are back to working on the beast. What ended up with the axle build?

[REDONE]

Well I am happy that you are back to working on the beast. What ended up with the axle build?

I've saved all the parts so I can try again later! Right now it's just back together with new bearings and seals. I at least made it pretty though, haha!

I'm kind of in a beautification pattern right now. I want to make the inside more comfortable so the womens will come running to go for a ride.

[lobie]

At the very least I ordered these from Summit today to get rid of my rotten spring hangers and the blocks.

You install these hangers yet. I ordered some a while back and haven't installed yet. Have any pics of yours?