5-Port Vacuum Switch Replacement

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505Burro
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Joined: Mon Aug 19, 2013 9:09 pm
Location: ABQ, NM

5-Port Vacuum Switch Replacement

Post by 505Burro »

I found someone's link to Dr. Bob's CTO interchange, and have successfully acquired a new switch. AWESOME! Now the hard part. With the engine still in the GW and hood still attached, what has worked to remove the old one and put a new one in?

I have succeeded in snapping off one of the 3 remaining ports using a crescent wrench and trying gingerly to position it. I had the same catastrophic result trying this on a junkyard Waggy too. I have researched trying to find a custom slotted socket like used for GM oil pressure senders and O2 sensor R&R, but none of those tools are 1.25" across flats like this POS installed on the Jeep in the most inaccessible area next to the EGR. :banghead:

My next course of action was to just break off the plastic ported top completely with a hammer and see if I can use a standard 1-1/4" socket to break that hex base loose, then MAYBE put the new one on very carefully without breaking any ports off. Any other ideas? Thanks!
My first Wagoneer...1987... ain't it Grand?
2003 TJ Rubicon Tomb Raider edition
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tgreese
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Re: 5-Port Vacuum Switch Replacement

Post by tgreese »

Sorry - don't have any specific advice for you, except that it was installed, so there must be a way to remove it. It seems like you are frustrated becasue there is no easy way to remove it with the tools you have. You may need to buy tools. You may have to spend some time making access.

Does the TSM show a special tool for that application? If not, then it can be replaced with conventional tools.

Remove what you have to to get enough clearance so you can turn the fitting. Removing the EGR valve and carburetor is no big deal. Strip off what you need to - it all goes back the same way it came off. Maybe a big crowfoot wrench will fit?
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
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Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
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Stuka
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Re: 5-Port Vacuum Switch Replacement

Post by Stuka »

Crescent wrench is not going to work. Just asking to break open some knuckles.

I actually used one if those curved looking set of channel locks. But had to soak the intake well before hand with mystery marvel oil.

Oh. And sit in the engine bay.
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Pevious Jeeps: 1981 J10, 1975 Cherokee, 2008 JK, 2005 KJ, 1989 XJ
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tgreese
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Re: 5-Port Vacuum Switch Replacement

Post by tgreese »

Sometimes it helps to put a piece of plywood across the engine bay and crawl out or lie on it.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.

Topic author
505Burro
Posts: 46
Joined: Mon Aug 19, 2013 9:09 pm
Location: ABQ, NM

Re: 5-Port Vacuum Switch Replacement

Post by 505Burro »

Ah! Never would have thought about the plywood. Very good ideas.

I just found a 1-1/4" crow's foot sold individually on Amazon and ordered that. That was my epiphany overnight before I saw all of the replies. Guess I will practice crawling into the engine compartment today!
My first Wagoneer...1987... ain't it Grand?
2003 TJ Rubicon Tomb Raider edition
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