Gas tank is out...what else to replace?

[pyro]

Got the oil pan done yesterday, now working on my fuel sending unit/cleaning tank project. going to replace the soft lines, however the local advance doesn't carry the filler and vent tubes. they don't appear to be dry rotted however i'm sure they are aged. is it worth it to wait for BJ's to ship some to me, or just reuse what i've got? anything else i should replace while i have the tank out? the vent, etc?

[Stuka]

You can replace the filler and vent lines with the tank installed. I have. So you can install it, and then when you get them, replace them. If they need it. But if they are not dry rotted or cracked, chances are they are fine.

[sgtpoliteness]

How bad was the inside of your tank?

[pyro]

Amazingly not bad at all

[Stuka]

Advantage of a polly tank. No rust to worry about. Typically just a bit of a sand like substance from gasoline impurities.

[pyro]

since i no longer have a charcoal canister, should i plug the vent on top of the tank? when the tank is full it leaks, and i am not sure if it was coming out of the top vent or from somewhere else. not to be confused with the vent tube, which is still intact.

[Stuka]

If you do not have a vapor control canister, it can be plugged.

But out of curiousity, why do you no longer have the charcoal canister? Its a good thing to have, and does not hurt performance one bit.

[whsii]

The fitting in the top of the tank, in the grommet, it the main tank vent. The fuel cap should shut off any air coming into the tank. The upper line equalizes pressure, and the unit that fits into the grommet is a one way valve, that will keep fuel from running out the vent in case of a roll over. It normally goes to the charcoal canister. I would run a charcoal canister, and the only line I would consider not using is the carb bowl vent, which is standard, and only if I used an aftermarket carb such as the Weber, which has no bowl vent.

This system as I understand it, is to trap the gasoline vapors and keep them from causing an explosive situation. Or in least case, having your truck smell like it is leaking gas.

[Stuka]

The fitting in the top of the tank, in the grommet, it the main tank vent. The fuel cap should shut off any air coming into the tank. The upper line equalizes pressure, and the unit that fits into the grommet is a one way valve, that will keep fuel from running out the vent in case of a roll over. It normally goes to the charcoal canister. I would run a charcoal canister, and the only line I would consider not using is the carb bowl vent, which is standard, and only if I used an aftermarket carb such as the Weber, which has no bowl vent.

This system as I understand it, is to trap the gasoline vapors and keep them from causing an explosive situation. Or in least case, having your truck smell like it is leaking gas.

My Weber (32/36 DGEV) does have a float bowl vent, and I have it connected to the charcoal canister.

[pyro]

replaced all the lines and the sending unit...i just put the vent back in, however i noticed that there is some play in it. is there anything i should use to try and seal it up? there isnt much play, but i dont want to get it all back together and find that it leaks when the tank is full. thanks

[Ron Burgundy]

Don't know from personal experience, but my next step in the mechanical part of my restore is front and rear leaf springs and I read that having the tank out makes for an easier job on the rear springs.
I'm sure someone on the board can verify if that's the case.

[jaber]

Good point Ron, if nothing else, you might weld the nut in place while its exposed.

[will e]

I don't know if it is true with a '81 J10 Laredo but in the 81 wagoneer and 82 cherokee I have done lifts on there is a captured nut for the front of the rear driver leave spring. If you ever plan on swapping springs, now would be a good time to both break the bolt/nut free, put some penetrating oil on it, tighten it again and then put a couple of welds on the nut to hold it in place.

[pyro]

Got it all back together and found that my sending unit is no bueno...also my check valve is leaking when full. Of course now I see that BJ's has them available. Ugh. Now to motivate myself to drain and drop it AGAIN...

[carnuck]

Or take the box off to access them and do any work the box needs while it's off.

[pyro]

Or take the box off to access them and do any work the box needs while it's off.

I do need new body mounts...good idea! Were supposed to have a garage day in two weeks anyway, so the extra hands will help out too.

[whsii]

The fitting in the top of the tank, in the grommet, it the main tank vent. The fuel cap should shut off any air coming into the tank. The upper line equalizes pressure, and the unit that fits into the grommet is a one way valve, that will keep fuel from running out the vent in case of a roll over. It normally goes to the charcoal canister. I would run a charcoal canister, and the only line I would consider not using is the carb bowl vent, which is standard, and only if I used an aftermarket carb such as the Weber, which has no bowl vent.

This system as I understand it, is to trap the gasoline vapors and keep them from causing an explosive situation. Or in least case, having your truck smell like it is leaking gas.

My Weber (32/36 DGEV) does have a float bowl vent, and I have it connected to the charcoal canister.

I saw a plug where I thought a vent at the top of the fuel bowl is located.

Could you get me a picture of where it connects to the Weber?

Thanks!