1986 Grand Wagoneer -Bakydnutbstr

[Bakydnutbstr]

Well the cold is here so its time to do the things that need be taken care of.
Heating the garage caused the leaked oil to condense with moisture in the air giving away their location. Harmonic balancer seal -1st

Man the bolt was tight,temps overnight -10f, tring to bust the bolt loose, I lifted myself off the floor,used 1/2” drive ratchet, breaker bar too same effect,so slept on it nxt morning - woke up- never had this problem when the weather is nice and warm get your heat gun and cook the bolt for awhile and try again POP it broke loose , oh thank you

With the engine in place got the balancer off and now to remove the seal? Not much room to work radiator not to much farther away,and it was new ,so becareful. I cherry reded the end of stright blade screwdriver bent 1/4” of blade to a 90 , had old sm hammer head ,as you see ,mini slap hammer 3-5 slaps and it came out, keep this screwdriver you bent it comes in handy for other tasks

I have lots of tools but sometimes I dont so find alternative-Pool stuff comes in handy, 1/2 of a pvc 1 1/2” union the smooth half fits the seal well a few taps w hammer ( or just a head ) in confined space works well, hit it as flat as possible when setting seal , check evenness of seal going in place until set.

Seal fits union well , you must hold seal and pvc part in place when attempting to install seal

It does go in , reinstalled balancer pully, well while I’m here lets do the power steering pump and stop those leaks as in earlier reply it had issues , been hammered on the inside of the body, well fixed that now back in place.
Next up rear main seal , surgery , open crank, more to come.

[devildog80]

Nice progress

[Bakydnutbstr]

Main bearing cap in place before removal 3/4” bolt head

Main bearing cap ,housing rear engine seal removed
You can see old seal in place little round spot.
I used a punch to start it moving then…..

Keep parts the direction they come out.

Then how to keep seal coming out.
You can see seal is out 99% of the way.
I used a peice of brazing rod cleaned off flux,then tapped it and fed it in bending it so slightly going in, the last I knew brass won’t strach steel, so shouldn’t hurt it, if it does you need a motor yours shot.

This worked pefectly it will follow curvature of crank, bend rod slightly as it goes in pushing out old seal tapping firmly on end of brass rod.
You can see rod formed to curvature of crank.
The new seal went in 95% of the way w just my fingers pushing it in (had to tap it in rest of the way using a flat screw driver using the flat side NOT the blade edge ) bout 1/2” inch needed to be tapped in the seal has a steel rod in it to keep its shape squirted oil in where seal rode to help install

A couple xtra things had to be done to get to this point.
Drop (of course) oil pan, had to remove cross pipe from header but pan didn’t clear the header itself so remove air pump junk(hoses,and related parts)to get to header bolts, lift it up secure it. Remove oil pan ,it cleared oil pump pick up no problem, had to bang pan off of block .
Didn’t have to lift trany or loosen other main caps just the rear one.
Reassemble add engine oil take for test drive ,clean garage floor, park it ,check floor in morn no new spots on the floor!
I will say I was very nervous bout doing this but beside dropping the header the job was relativly easy, I took a couple days to do it but if your gund ho you could do it in a full day +-.
Since
I dont want salt to get everywhere
I took her out into my snow covered field locked my hubs booogied around 10” deep no problem 4x4 worked greate

[devildog80]

Nice work there, and thanks for posting with process spelled out so clear.

[Bakydnutbstr]

1

[Bakydnutbstr]

2

[Bakydnutbstr]

3

[Bakydnutbstr]

Sorry bout 1 2 3
Door panel needs mirror control switch picked one up at junk yard, from a trail blazer envoy only to find its n/g so I took it apart

[Bakydnutbstr]

Seven strand wire switch I think it would work except its junk

[Bakydnutbstr]

Po broke tabs and glued escution to switch , notice green corrosion at clip at top

It must of gotten salty water in it over some time. Crossing the circuitry w corrosion looks as it shorted out and salt just ate up the circuts. Well will check the nxt switch for corrosion first.
So back to the junkyard “garys u pull it “ Binghamton NY
We’ll see what happens more to come

[devildog80]

Might look back more in the 70's -90's, as more of those switches would have more metal in them, and possibly rebuildable? Thinking Mercury, Lincoln, Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Cadillac, etc luxury models, would have had the remote mirrors. I know my window switches in my '84 GW I took apart, cleaned, reassembled, and work like new now.

[Bakydnutbstr]

When I get time maybe later today after dentist will take ride to junk yard

[devildog80]

I know for some time, the scrap yards were crushing a lot of those older rigs, but some figured out they still had a lot of $$'s to be made off folks like us, looking for retrofit parts that would cross over to fit other makes/model collector vehicles.

[Bakydnutbstr]

New switch in place

[Bakydnutbstr]

More on mirror controll replacement switch go to “stock FSJ tech” info and video from myself and others