Howell TBI Install - installation tips

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tgreese
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Howell TBI Install - installation tips

Post by tgreese »

I'm poking along with my Howell TBI install.

This thread is not meant to be complete instructions, but instead cover some issues that I found either interesting or may be useful to others.

Note that this is the kit with a CARB number (California Air Resources Board), and is 50-states legal in all regions when installed according to the instructions. You have to keep your catalytic convertor, EGR valve with CTO, PCV system, and vapor recovery (charcoal canister) if so equipped.

The first is a link to this thread viewtopic.php?t=24558 showing how I plugged the air injection ports in my exhaust manifolds. As Stuka points out, you must remove the air injection with one of these systems. They rely on an oxygen sensor (O2 sensor) in the exhaust pipe to control fuel mixture, and adding a bunch of fresh air will prevent the system from measuring the air-fuel ratio.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
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Re: Howell TBI Install - installation tips

Post by tgreese »

Second topic is the hole in the firewall. The computer (ECU) is installed in the passenger cabin, and there is a wiring harness that must go through the firewall to the engine compartment.

J20TBIharness.jpg
This is the harness laid out on the bench. The computer end is next to the gray box and blue connectors in the foreground. The engine end has three groups of branches - one group goes to the top of the engine and controls the injectors and reads the engine sensors for temperature, throttle position and manifold pressure, amongst others. The second group is much longer and goes to the vehicle speed sensor, starter trigger and 02 sensor. The last group manages power with some fuse holders and the fuel pump relay.

You want the middle part where everything is in the same bundle to go through the firewall. Howell gives you a grommet for the firewall and says to make a 1.5" diameter hole in the firewall. I did some tests to mock up what this firewall hole needs to be. MysticRob at IFSJA https://forums.ifsja.org/forum/tire-kic ... -o-d-452-2 tells how he took the harness apart and carved away some of the fuel pump relay socket to make it all fit through the prescribed 1.5" hole.

My first test (on my mock-up) was to file a couple of notches in the 1.5" hole to clear the corners of the socket. This still did not give enough room for the "octopus" of the harness to pass through - I would need to take all the tape and split loom off of the harness, as did Rob, to make this work.

Instead, I went to a larger hole. McMaster-Carr offers a larger grommet for a 1.625" hole that has a 2" diameter and a 0.875" center hole for about $5 https://www.mcmaster.com/9600K222/ I found this will fit in a 1.75" hole, and everything will go through without a lot of dismantling of the harness.

Here's my mock-up in a panel I scrounged from a discarded dishwasher:

J20TBIharnessMockup.jpg

You need to pay attention to the order that you pass the various items through the hole: fuel pump relay socket first, then the fuse holders, the injector sockets, and so forth. The octopus will fit through the hole if you squish the split loom some and walk it through. I used my huge step drill, but a hole saw would work and is cheaper than the big bit. I split the grommet to fit over the harness.

J20TBIsmallerGrommet.jpg
This is the larger hole with the grommet that Howell supplies.
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
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Re: Howell TBI Install - installation tips

Post by tgreese »

Air cleaner revision.

The throttle body is shorter than the original carburetor. Howell suggests adding a spacer. The throttle body is the same 5.125" diameter as the original carburetor, providing many options.

First I went to Summit and looked at what was offered there. All of the spacers had some comment from buyers that claimed it would not fit on this or that application. Next I went to Amazon and bought a cheap aluminum spacer, resolving to make it work. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09K7S4M4D?ps ... ct_details

When the spacer arrived, it was a loose fit to the existing air cleaner and had no provision for a seal at the air cleaner. I made some little brackets and fixed the two parts together rigidly.

J20TBIairCleanerSpacer1.jpg

I sealed the air cleaner to the spacer with some silicone (brown is what I had on hand).

J20TBIairCleanerSpacer2.jpg

The bottom edge sits on the original-style paper gasket that came with the Howell kit.
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.

akguy09
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Re: Howell TBI Install - installation tips

Post by akguy09 »

Looking good so far
1979 Jeep J-10 304/T-18
2017 Jeep JK 2DR
2021 PowerWagon
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tgreese
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Re: Howell TBI Install - installation tips

Post by tgreese »

Thanks - more progress.

MAP sensor.

Not a lot of time available for this during the week, but I had a few moments this afternoon. The MAP sensor is for "manifold air pressure" and provides an input to the computer (ECU). The part that Howell supplies appears to be for an LS engine, with the sealing grommet removed.

DelcoMapSensor.png

Apparently this plugs into the Chevy LS manifold. In its original application, the sensor looks to be held in place by the sealing grommet and some clips on the manifold that fits into this part. Good picture of a Chevrolet truck manifold with this type of MAP sensor here: https://www.streetmusclemag.com/image/2 ... 40x639.jpg (top half is the factory manifold). Supplying this part rather than the earlier part that mounts on a bracket is likely a cost issue. I'm sure this part is fine functionally, but this version of sensor does not have any bolt holes or other means to attach to a bracket or such.

I made a bracket to mount the sensor, and held it with some zip ties.
J20TBIMAPsensorOnBench.jpg
J20TBIMAPsensorOnManifold.jpg

The MAP sensor for Rochester TBI connects to a dedicated nipple on the back of the throttle body. Looking at the Howell harness, I may need to lengthen this branch a bit to reach my mounting point. Howell says no more than 12" of hose between the throttle body and the sensor. This may be 9" of hose, something like that.
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.

akguy09
Posts: 328
Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2021 6:11 am
Location: Ellicott, Colorado

Re: Howell TBI Install - installation tips

Post by akguy09 »

I am torn between Howell and The Holley, so I am curious to see your results
1979 Jeep J-10 304/T-18
2017 Jeep JK 2DR
2021 PowerWagon
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Re: Howell TBI Install - installation tips

Post by tgreese »

Fuel System Plumbing

Normally the GM cars and trucks with this GM Rochester TBI use an in-tank fuel pump with an operating pressure of under 15 psi. Howell supplies a fuel pump similar in appearance to the more familiar high-pressure Ford-type pump, but operating at a lower pressure. Conventional fuel hose, hose clamps and fittings, same as used with carbureted vehicles, are supplied by Howell.
Walbro GSL395: https://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-gsl3 ... -pump.html

My truck has a dual tank system, so the fuel pump must be forward of both tanks and the tank switch. The truck came to me with an electric Pollak six-port tank switch, which provides for both the feed and return for two tanks. Prior to last summer, I ran exclusively on the Aux tank and the switch was not used. Last summer I repaired my factory plastic gas tank - seen here viewtopic.php?t=23694 - and then I made the valve operational.

Howell supplies an inline fuel filter for a Ford https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4413396 - I presume their thinking is a Ford-type inline pump (though operating at lower pressure than a Ford) needs a matching fuel filter. The instructions from Howell stress that the pump they supply must have the proper filter between it and the tank. I purchased a second example of this filter and placed both filters (one for each tank line) ahead of both my switch and the Howell-supplied fuel pump.

J20TBIFuelPlumbing1.jpg

Both the filters and the six-port tank switch are located on the gray skid plate I repurposed from part of a discarded keyboard drawer. Here you see it TBI-ready, with the future TBI connection capped with the red plastic plug. The top hose with two clamps goes to the factory fuel pump and carburetor. The line in the middle is the factory return line.

To connect the TBI pump, I removed the factory fuel line from the top of the frame rail and cut off a section of it, flared a new end, and put the shortened line back on the frame.

J20TBIFuelPlumbing3.jpg

The fuel pump is mounted on the frame rail using a conduit clamp from the hardware store. There is new tubing from the tank switch (red plug above) and the short length of hose connects to the original fuel line on the frame rail, minus the 21 inches shown above.

J20TBIFuelPlumbing4.jpg
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Last edited by tgreese on Mon May 13, 2024 3:25 pm, edited 5 times in total.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
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tgreese
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Re: Howell TBI Install - installation tips

Post by tgreese »

Fuel System Plumbing, continued

Howell supplies something like ten feet of rubber fuel hose that they instruct should be used to connect between the new fuel pump and the throttle body. I have seen cars burn to the ground from wandering long rubber fuel lines, and thus chose another approach.

With the plumbing modified as described above, the truck has two steel fuel lines (feed and return) that follow the top of the frame rail to a location near the original mechanical fuel pump. The mechanical pump has been removed and its location blocked off using the block-off plate supplied in the Howell kit. I now need to make steel lines that connect from the frame rail, across the top of the engine, and connect to the throttle body.

Here are the lines I made -

J20TBIFuelPlumbing5.jpg

These were made from coils of steel brake line that I bought from Inline Tube through eBay. These are Inline Tube OE1425 and OE1625, for 1/4" and 5/16" OD resp. This material is fairly cheap; if interested to purchase, suggest you search on eBay for a seller with competitive price and shipping costs.

I have a tubing bender and a flaring tool. I made the bubble flares on the tubing ends by starting a double flare and not folding it over. Works well for holding rubber hose. I made a pattern for the shape of the pipe using coat hanger wire, then copied the shape in tubing. As I said the material is cheap, and you'll probably need a few attempts till you get the hang of it. My batting average was .667 here... I started three and two came out ok.

Here they are installed on the truck:

J20TBIFuelPlumbing6.jpg

I connected the 5/16" rubber hose to the frame, but I'm out of 1/4" fuel hose, so I'll have to stop here. Note that you need a little slack in the hose between the frame and the engine, to account for engine movement.
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
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tgreese
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Joined: Fri Jun 08, 2012 6:31 am
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Re: Howell TBI Install - installation tips

Post by tgreese »

Drilling the Hole

Put the plug wires and other engine-top stuff back that I removed to install the fuel lines.

Thought a bit about where to go through the firewall, and made some measurements. There is a heater control cable penetration on the firewall that can serve as a reference for measurements on both sides of the firewall. I removed my glove box (it was in sad shape) and took a look at the inside firewall layout in that region. There is the heater box with two defroster outlets on top, and the wiper linkage and pivots above that. The flat center of the firewall is obstructed by the heater, and you wouldn't want to put the hole too high and maybe run afoul of the moving wiper linkage.

Here you see me drilling the hole with my very large step bit. Before this, I marked and center-punched where I want the hole, and drilled a 5/16"-ish pilot hole. Laying on top of the engine, seeing the steps on the drill was obscured, so once I was close I went a step at a time and measured the hole until I reached the diameter I wanted of 1.75".

J20DrillTheFirewall.jpg
The large step bit is pretty expensive, and a hole saw would work instead. The step bit can grab and put a lot of torque on the drill; a firm grip is needed. It is nice for sheet metal though, since it leaves a clean hole and does not distort the panel around the hole. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C23FBR9D


This is the location of the hole from the front and from inside:

J20FirewallPenOutside.jpg
J20FirewallPenInside.jpg
The heater control cable penetration is seen in the engine compartment view above, located below the vacuum reservoir. It's 8.25" down from the lip on the outside, and 5.5" down from the bottom of the shelf under the dash. I wanted 2.25" below the shelf on the inside, which gave me 5.5" down from the lip under the hood.

Plenty of cable left on the inside.

J20ExtraCableInside.jpg

The pink and black unsheathed wires are for the "Service Engine Soon" light (Howell parlance, I'd call it the check engine light CEL). There is an ADL connector, a fuse panel with a Weather Pack connector for an ignition hot wire, and the two ECU connectors with blue clips. The extra wire is my antenna wire.
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Last edited by tgreese on Mon Jun 10, 2024 7:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
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tgreese
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Re: Howell TBI Install - installation tips

Post by tgreese »

Plug In the Throttle Body

Next I routed and plugged in the several connectors going to the top of the engine. These connections included the TPS (throttle position sensor), the IAC (Idle Air Control), the pair of fuel injectors, the coolant temperature sensor, and the MAP sensor. I relocated the MAP sensor, since the harness was not long enough to reach the previous location. This is now on a spacer in one of the now-unused choke stove bolts. I may need to move it again; reading through the Howell instructions, they specify that the vacuum port on the sensor must point down. This is how the sensor was located in its original application.

J20MAPSensorRelocated.jpg
There is also a tach signal wire and an air conditioning wire. I presume the AC wire triggers fast idle when the AC clutch activates; can't find it in the instructions now, but I will at some point. Likely I will need a tach filter for the tach signal wire, since I run a Summit CD box with the Duraspark distributor. Howell says to call them - I will make a tach filter and install it. Plenty of info online about how to make a tach signal filter.
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
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tgreese
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Re: Howell TBI Install - installation tips

Post by tgreese »

Relay and Fuses

The kit comes with a relay for the fuel pump, and fuses for battery power and fuel pump power. Given the harness length, apparently you are expected to mount these on the center of the firewall above the engine. It would make more sense to mount them on the right inner fender, where they could be reached without a ladder and crawling across the engine. I chose to mount them on the heater housing, as seen here.

J20HeaterStudMounts1.jpg

This is a piece of 1/8" thick G10/FR4 board I cut to size and glued to the heater box. The G10 is also known as Garolite https://www.mcmaster.com/8667K213/ Easy to work with using carbide tipped tools or steel tools you don't care about dulling (contains glass fiber). I cut it with my table saw and an old blade. Handy material to have on hand.
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Last edited by tgreese on Mon Jun 10, 2024 7:48 am, edited 3 times in total.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
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tgreese
Posts: 7610
Joined: Fri Jun 08, 2012 6:31 am
Location: Medford MA USA

Re: Howell TBI Install - installation tips

Post by tgreese »

Mounting the ECU and its Harness

The Howell instructions suggest to mount the ECU with Velcro. This seems like a good idea, considering how light the computer is and IME how well the Velcro tape sticks to a clean smooth surface.

I made a cardboard pattern.

J20VelcroPattern.jpg

If you staple each side of the Velcro to the cardboard, you can remove the adhesive backing and place each half accurately. Then pull the staples from the other side of the cardboard.

Here is the ECU in place. There is a big flat space on the backside of the passenger dash panel here, which seems like the ideal spot. Be sure to clean the surfaces well if you want the Velcro adhesive backing to stick. This is the Velcro I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BNPHCZX Says "15 lbs" but that's deceptive. It's actually 1 lb per linear inch of material. Holds very well though.

J20ECUInPlace.jpg

Under the dash, you also need to mount the ADL connector (diagnostic connector), the fuse panel and install a CEL. Here is the CEL I installed, being tested on my bench.

J20CELOnBench.jpg
These are also from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C8N87D9G

The fuse panel and ADL connector were mounted on another piece of G10/FR4 and placed on the passenger kick panel.

J20EFIFusePanel.jpg
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.

marc
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Re: Howell TBI Install - installation tips

Post by marc »

Tim, I am almost ready to pull the trigger on installing the Howell fuel injection on my 84 j10. One question, being I have never tackled this situation before, which wire did you use to power the Howell computer? Did you use one in the cab or run a wire back from the engine compartment into the cab?
Thanks, Marc
J10 1984, very stock with AMC 258.
Truck appears to have been rebuilt or restored at one time
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tgreese
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Re: Howell TBI Install - installation tips

Post by tgreese »

The kit instructions will tell you how to do this. As I recall, there is a constant power wire to the ECU from under the hood. In my picture above, you see the two fuse holders that I mounted on top of the heater housing (since moved to the driver's side inner fender). The yellow wire is tagged "direct battery power" - that's what powers the ECU.

Power is separate from logic. You also need a switched power connection that signals the ECU to come on and prime the fuel pump. That's the pink wire you see coming from the under-dash fuse panel, in my picture above.

For the pink wire, I piggybacked off the fuse panel at the IGN connection shown in Rob's post: https://forums.ifsja.org/forum/tire-kic ... ost2257985

You'll need these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078T6NLTP
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.

marc
Posts: 187
Joined: Tue Aug 11, 2020 8:24 am

Re: Howell TBI Install - installation tips

Post by marc »

Tim, thanks. That also answers my question from looking at the circuit diagram. Saw two hot leads into the ECU. I think the Howell harness has the direct batter contact built in but I have to check.
Marc
J10 1984, very stock with AMC 258.
Truck appears to have been rebuilt or restored at one time
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tgreese
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Re: Howell TBI Install - installation tips

Post by tgreese »

The Howell pre-made wiring, labels and instructions should provide everything required. You don't need the ECU wiring diagram, unless you are curious about what goes to where. You'll need some small items like the CEL and fuse tap. I chose my own way for stuff like the fuel pump mount, fuel lines and MAP sensor bracket, and others I don't recall right now.

I'm busy with a work project now; when I'm free-er I'll go through and post what I did fancier than in the kit instructions.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.

Srdayflyer
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Re: Howell TBI Install - installation tips

Post by Srdayflyer »

the pictures of the install made me wonder how many hours have been spent on the install routing, fabricating ,prior to startup. have you started it up yet.
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tgreese
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Re: Howell TBI Install - installation tips

Post by tgreese »

Yeah, it runs. I've been busy and have not gotten back to it. Hard to track the total hours because my effort goes in fits and starts and I tend to mix in other projects when hobbying.

My truck wiring has a voltage drop somewhere that drives the ECU logic voltage down when starting. Starts first time every time with a remote starter switch. This should be easy to fix, but has not been so far. I need to get into the factory wiring between the starter switch and the fuse panel.

I'm also using a Summit CD ignition block that provides a full-voltage tach pulse. The Howell-configured ECU expects an ignition signal by connection to the ignition coil. There is a small circuit board in the Howell harness that conditions the ignition trigger to mimic the 5V ignition signal the ECU expects.

I took pictures of that but they were a bit blurry and I had not gotten back to them ... here's one:

HowellSparkConditioner.jpg

Not sure if this is a problem or not ... I should 'scope the trigger signal and see what it looks like. Howell claims that the system will run too rich with an external ignition trigger like this. Maybe their little board makes multiple triggers that register a false RPM when given something other than the coil inductive kick?

Howell want you to buy an accessory that fixes this issue. Watching the injectors, they seem to squirt a lot for idle - maybe that's normal when cold. I will apply the scope and see what's happening with the ignition signal.
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
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