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Stuka wrote: ↑Mon May 20, 2024 8:48 pm
If you are trying to remove buildup, I have used a brass brush. Has a small round head that can fit into all the channels.
Then I just spray it down with brake clean and let it air dry.
thank you, very good way to flush all that microscopic debris between the plates
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
yes, brake cleaner worked a lot better than carb cleaner... of course we still have a transmission issue... probably one of the 8 solenoids might be sick
VBreconditionat63KE32.jpg
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Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
Wow! There's a lot going on in New transmissions. More gears and electronics equals Crazy expensive. Regarding issues, did you run a fault scan? It'll tell you if a solenoid isn't working like it should.
and thats why a newmodel trans costs so much, friend of mine just dropped 14k on his 2022 gmc trans., these babys arent your turbo 350/400/727/c4 trans. you know what the dealers and trans shops say
YOU WANNA PLAY YOU GOTTA PAY,
Stuka wrote: ↑Mon May 27, 2024 9:30 am
What is the issue? Not shifting into certain gears?
Sorry for the late reply, delay shifting from 2 to 3rd. Diagnostic code list turbine speed, aka slippage.
Rebuilt the Valve body, change the trans oil a few times, but still with 35% of the old oil...
Less slippage with the last oil change, will probably do another oil drain, as the transmission is very responsive, but still some slipping according to code, at least the turbine slips in the 950rpm vs. the previous 2600rpm range...
Older diagnostic, needs a PC running XP with serial port!
92codeMay26re105.jpg
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Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
Transmission flush at home.
Drop the pan, install new filter & oil. Does not need to be full, but enough for now transmission pump will pump. Drop pressure line at radiator into a bucket/tub, with enough gap to see the oil come out of the hose. You can temporarily zip tie the hose to front steering rods to keep it in place, just snug but not cutting off flow of fluid, directed into the bucket.
Now, set park brake, chock the front tires, set rear tires off the ground on jack stands. Start the truck, foot on the brake, shift into drive keeping it at idle and let foot off the brake. Transmission will start pumping fluid into the bucket, and rear tires will be turning. As you see an amount of old fluid drop into the bucket, add that much fresh back in the fill tube. Do this until oil coming through is fresh. Apply brakes, shift into park, shut truck off. Reassemble transmission cooling line and should now have full fresh fluid in transmission.
As you put new in with old already, you will have mixed fluid, so best to do the flush method before running after dropping the pan and replacing the filter.
Hope this helps
'81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
'84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), Edelbrock clone 1406, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified