Ad blocker detected: Our website is made possible by displaying online advertisements to our visitors. Please consider supporting us by disabling your ad blocker on our website.
Huh. I looked up "radiator grommets" aka radiator bushings and they are a thing in themselves. Pretty expensive new for what they are, ca $5-8 each. Presume you picked these from a wreck somewhere, since they look used. Something to look for at the pick-and-pull.
This fits in with what I wrote above about accumulated stress. Aluminum accumulates stress too; that's why they scrap airliners after a fixed number of pressure cycles.
AlohaAirFuselageFailure (600 x 316).jpg
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Looks kind funny with the door open. Like, why bother?
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
I had the them in my "keep this box" from vehicles that I've scrapped, so I guess you could say I got them from a salvage The large one like I have in my hand is actually hard to get, they are a dealer/salvage only item for GM and Dodge, at least that my searching found, I wanted another one for the top. The one on top is new and for a Honda, it doesn't have near the thickness of the rubber but the same size hole for the stud, it is good enough.
Funny, a been discussing that old Aloha flight recently with the 737max door blowing off. Looked even funnier with the stairs rolled up to it LOL
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.
Boring stuff…. 7 quarts of oil and filter change a long with a long over due oil change in the T-case. Advance Adapters has recommended to me all sorts of lubricants for an Atlas, 10w-30, 20w-50 or 50w motor oils to synchromesh and 90wt, the only consistency was synthetic. They seem as of late to have settled on 75w80 GL4, transmission fluid, for several years it’s what they have been providing with new units. That oil tends to be pricy when marketed for cars/pickups, seen as high as $50/qt. But if your willing to buy at least a gallon it is then marketed to the heavy duty truck crowd, where their units hold many gallons of the stuff. Found this for $36 per gallon, should get me buy for another couple of years. The T-case holds 2 quarts.
The oil change was past due as well, had 7500 miles on it, was still dark amber on the dipstick and still full with no adds, couldn’t be happier with my 300,000 mile motor, everything I’ve checked has been still within factory spec.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.
Most of us have been here….. At some point in its history someone replaced the dash pad with one from a much newer truck/wagon. Well it had a massive sag in the middle making the radio spot useless and just looked saggy and tired. My plan since the beginning has been to pull it and paint the dash and put some plastic plugs in the attachment holes, simple….. well…. getting ready to do the AC install and pulled the dash pad, and this is what I found
Anyone have any bright ideas other than sucking it up and metal working the dash?
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.
Wow! Looks like two guys and a monkey tried to put the pad on.
I welded mine but I had the dash out. Yours I was thinking maybe I'd glue a backer on with glass-filled body filler but I dunno. I guess maybe some I'd fill as suggested above, bigger ones I'd join together with a file and make a plug. Got TIG?
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
If it was out, without question, weld everything up and smooth it out. Really want to keep my preferred daily driver on the road as much as possible. If I pull the dash the can-o-worms is open, It will stay closed
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.
It's a sign! Use that can opener to make plugs from.
Though maybe you should keep it like Harry says. Getting to when younger folks don't even know what the pointy end was for.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
The can opener made its way to the “kitchen in a box” we using for our camping trips. Mrs Yeller wanted the bracelet, not sure why but she did. Need to get the other side opened up and see what treasures it is holding.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.
While I’m in it this far the electrical is getting some TLC, steering column is getting replaced and painting the dash. Slowly picking away at stuff. Insulating the firewall and cowl area with a layer of dynamat type product and 2 layers of 6mm foam. Truck should be quieter and easy to cool and heat.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.
Yes ordering over I would do the bottom outlet and shift it over 1 to 1-1/2” to the right. The bottom outlet is low enough to be below the battery. It’s all going back together now….. slow and steady
Also need more defrost ducting tube. The only area with enough real estate to make all of that fit is on the passenger side and there isn’t enough of the 2-1/2” hose.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.
Tilt column in, truck wiring is complete, everything works, ac is almost done inside, dash is going back together. Under the hood still have all of the plumbing to install, compressor and still need to build a steering shaft. Well on the way to being completed.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.
Who needs a $300 steering shaft? $26 replacement for a heep XJ, it has the right ends for the column and box. Weld in a $15 piece of 3/4” double d shaft to get it to the right length and bolt it in. $41 and done.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.