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I'm pretty sure '79 or '80 was the first year that two mirrors were standard on them, so the mirror doesn't surprise me too much. The antenna is still weird to me though lol
I've been wondering about doing the Jag stuff to mine too. I have the standard Jeep ones rn, but no wires are connected or anything, as I don't have a switch for it. I just want something I can get a switch for, and adjust
I made it home for a few weeks and managed to get some stuff put together, i mounted the skyjacker 4" springs, rebuilt axles, brake lines, fuel lines and tank, rear disc brakes and E-Stopp electric emergency brake system. Main body was dropped off at the body shop.
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Last edited by Jevman on Sun Jul 16, 2023 5:43 am, edited 3 times in total.
My AMC 401 was completed on the lower end at .030 with Wiseco forged pistons and the Edelrock Heads and Pro Flow 4 will be put on while I'm away again. Coming together slowly but it's happening!
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Few more updates on the build, 401 is coming together nicely, painted black now and the Pro Flow 4 is on top of the Edelbrock Preformer Heads, Harland Sharp Diamond Series Aluminum Roller Rockers are in with Edelbrock push rods, Milodon oil pan painted black, serpentine system is next to go on. Waiting on the new Edelbrock Aluminum Black finned valve covers to show up. Everything seems to be on back order these days!
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Last edited by Jevman on Tue Jul 04, 2023 8:14 am, edited 3 times in total.
The Toyota Land Cruiser rear bump stops fit the front perfectly and the Toyota Land Cruiser front bump stops (offset) fit the rear, they make spacers for these also so you can adjust to what you need, I like them so far
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Here are a couple of pics of what I did for the JK Mirrors, the 4" pipe was cut, shaped and welded to the inside of the door and the actual mount the bolts go threw are inside the 4" pipe, the mirrors will be pretty solid!
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Wait until everything is installed. Order drive shafts to arrive in time for start up. Make sure everything is right, the are expensive and need to be right the first time.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.
I figured I should wait until it's loaded 99% to order the shocks and drive shafts. Just wanting to be the kid in the candy shop some days!
The guy that built the lower end put a Summit 8601 in it because the Edelbrock RPM and Comp Extreme Energy 284 where more than 6 months out give or take, he claims they are all similar and will put the 401 above the 400 HP range with pump gas. I'd like to dyno it to see what it will be putting out in the end. If anyone has any input on this cam please let me know.
I don't have any specific suggestions, other than don't buy a racing cam for street use (esp. on a Jeep). Unpleasant at low rpm and doesn't make good power on the low end. I would say get something pretty big if you've got to dial in some FI anyway. You'll be way happier with the results. With a carb I'd be tempted to stick with a mid range cam just to keep it a little easier to dial in.
This is the description of the cam, "Fair idle, excellent midrange power. Requires 9.5:1 and higher compression, 2,500+ stall, and gearing. Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,200-5,500.Camshaft Use: Street/Strip. The 401 was built to 9.5:1 compression so I was told with the Wiseco pistons and my torque converter stall on the 700r4 is 2500 (Hughes Preformance Street Master). I'm not a gear head like a lot of you on here but I can wrench.... I would gladly take any suggestions from anyone on the set up of all of this, now is the time to find out if something is off before the transmission gets bolted on.
Sounds good to me. Good solid mid-range so that's always gonna be helpful on these. I know on my dad's truck (Ford not Jeep) it's got a 351W in it--my grandpa was building the engine for a different car so he went down the list until it said "not for street use" and backed up one lol. 9.5:1 will be good; with those heads and headers and such you shouldn't have any issues running 87, but you've got lots of compression which is always good.