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That link isn’t working on my phone. Will dot 3 be ok?
Got rid of the browser dependence - try it. https://www.bing.com/search?q=sae+j1703 ... equivalent
or you could search for the same terms that I did.
I don't have the '73 TSM, but the '72 TSM specifies SAE J1703. You could look at the '74 TSM on the Tom Collins site and see if the spec is the same - if so, it's near certain that '73 is the same.
DOT3equiv.png
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Last edited by tgreese on Thu Mar 30, 2023 7:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
84 prospector wrote: ↑Wed Mar 29, 2023 9:10 am
... where’s the lever I have to push down to return the key back at?
Next to the switch. Did you look at the column?
Yes I looked at the column, I took a picture of it. The only lever I see is the gear selector lever. What lever are you talking about? Do you have a picture of one or guidance as to where it is at on the column?
Both of my trucks have a small lever next to and below the key switch that allows the switch to return to off. If it's there and it were a snake, it would have bit you.
I think it takes pressure off the locking bar for the steering lock, so you can turn the switch. Try moving the steering wheel while you turn the key to off.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
84 prospector wrote: ↑Wed Mar 29, 2023 9:14 am
All wiring seems to be working except for brake/signals and hazards. I pulled the bottom flasher out to see if there was power and power was on one side in fuse panel, even with blinkers off
I don't see a question here.
It has power on one of those contacts that the flasher plugs into all the time when the blinkers aren’t even on. Is that Normal?
I don't know. I would have to trace through the wiring diagram to find out. Something you can do.
Note there is a relay for both the indicators and the hazards, and you can swap them. If neither works, I would buy a new one and try it.
Suggest you follow my advice about the grounds first. The other great liability is connectors. Suggest you unplug, clean and grease the connectors first, as well as cleaning the grounds. Age and weather affects the grounds and the connectors badly.
A bad ground or open connector could be really hard to find using the multimeter or test light. If these are bad, they can change the circuit with surprising and puzzling results. On this old a car, esp. since it's been stored/idle for a long time, it will be worth your time to maintain the grounds and connectors. Contact cleaner, dielectric grease, and a small nylon brush - old stiff toothbrush is ok. You can clean and grease the bulbs and sockets too, and test the bulbs.
The brake lights and the indicators/hazards go through the steering column indicator switch, as I recall. There is also a separate harness that plugs in for the rear of the vehicle, near where the wires curve to follow the foot board as I recall. If you look you can find it. The bulkhead connector is full of grease and usually not a problem.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
tgreese wrote: ↑Wed Mar 29, 2023 2:26 pm
Next to the switch. Did you look at the column?
Yes I looked at the column, I took a picture of it. The only lever I see is the gear selector lever. What lever are you talking about? Do you have a picture of one or guidance as to where it is at on the column?
Both of my trucks have a small lever next to and below the key switch that allows the switch to return to off. If it's there and it were a snake, it would have bit you.
I think it takes pressure off the locking bar for the steering lock, so you can turn the switch. Try moving the steering wheel while you turn the key to off.
(Ah-ha! Both my trucks have manual transmissions!)
Automatic truck? The lever is only present WFGS (with floor gear shiftiness). This implies that the shifter lever on the column must be involved. I'd try lifting the lever hard into park while turning the key and lock. Maybe that will help. If not you'll probably have to take the steering wheel off and go into the hub and locking components.
If so, I'd suggest you follow one of the later TSMs regarding this operation. Maybe the '82 book on the Tom Collins site? Yhe later books are much better for stuff like this, and it's a commodity GM steering column. Or look online for YouTube if that helps you more.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
The turn signals and brake lights all run through the column turn signal switch. With your admitted column issues if there is power for them to the column I bet it’s not leaving the column. Chases tons of brake light/turn signal issues, most often the switch is bad or the harness in the column is damaged. A new column harness comes with a new switch.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.
84 prospector wrote: ↑Thu Mar 30, 2023 8:59 pm
Do the turn signals and brake lights share a common ground? If so where would that ground be located?
Good suggestion from Yeller.
The grounds for lights are at each corner next to the lights, either through the light housing to the body shell, or via a wire to the body steel or chassis.
Cars generally have distributed grounds; that is, the body and chassis are one big ground connection that goes back to the negative battery terminal. The circuit's current goes to the body or chassis where it is convenient, ie next to or through the light fixture.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
one thing I will follow up on regarding the column switch, this applies to any of the GM based columns, including YJ and XJ. Find an AC Delco switch, or a Flaming River switch, they are still made but most parts suppliers do not carry them. You will make yourself batshit crazy replacing the chinese switches available. I will not even waste my time trying to install a no name turn signal switch, I'm probably 0 for 12 on them working correctly out of the box. Who cares about lifetime warrantee when it never works to start with.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.
pull the bulb and test with a simple test light to see if it is ground or not. If it won't light a test light its not getting power. not familiar with all of the different lights, but most of that vintage are grounded through the housing except for side markers.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.
Shorting the brakelight switch will test the brakelight switch. It will not test the grounds. If the brakelights light, the switch is bad. If they do not, nothing was learned. If you can make the brakelights work but the indicators/hazards do not, the relays may be bad, or it's a problem in the indicators' switch in the column.
How many bulbs in the taillight housing? Are the brakelights a separate filament from the indicators on a '73? Looking at the wiring diagram on the TOm COllins site shows something like an 1157 type bulb, but it also looks like a Haynes or CHilton's diagram, not Jeep. You really need the wiring diagram from the official Jeep 1973 TSM. The Haynes and CHilton's books are full of errors.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Looked under the dash and found a bunch of stuff not plugged in. I tested with test light to make sure one side of brake switch wasn’t working and the side not hot was plugged in, side supposed to be hot had no wire on the terminal. I plugged a hot wire on the terminal and hit the brakes and the right side tail light came on dim. I had it depressed for a few minutes and I started smelling wire melting smell and immediately in plugged that terminal and it was hot and u plugged the battery. There was also a whole thing missing wires on it on the column.
Looked through a bunch more wiring and the wiring is trash. Bunch of wires completely burnt with no coating left under the engine bay, a bunch of cut wires, a bunch of wires Burnt to the point I don’t feel safe even trying to fix this harness. It’s so messed up I do not believe it’s salvageable. I am going to buy a new universal wiring harness, how many circuits should I be looking for in a universal kit?
The speedway one is more expensive, probably higher quality but the other one looks more plug and play. I would like a painless but don’t have the money to drop on one of those at the moment and need the truck to be going. Which one do you think will be less of a headache?
I will go for the speedway 22 circuit. As for the current wiring, I cut that wire off that was completely melted and bare metal because it had power. I wanna say it was black or purple out of the block on the firewall. Didn’t change anything by cutting it off, all the stuff that worked before still works.
