Lift install, while I'm there stuff to replace

[sierrablue]

Do your body mounts. Make sure theyre good.. u jiints ball joints only go bad when thry go bad.

Not true. U joints and body mounts have very little to do with each other.

Huh U joint only go bad when they go bad... Its either bad or not. Thats what im saying

The body mounts rubber are probably garunteed to be rotten squished or cracked by now. All i was saying is to look at the body mounts. And the steel they squish on which tends to rust out too. U joints dont have to be replaced if they arent bad which is easy to find out.

Did a FSJ owner die years ago when his body flew off his wagoneer in a accident ? Im shocked yours didnt fly off so yours must still be good. Which is great

I thought you were saying that the u joints can only go bad if the body mounts are shot. Sorry.

I know the rubber in the mounts isn't great, but the bolts and the mounts are ok. Mine still has zero rust, and additionally there was not a lot of force on the top.

[candymancan]

Oddly i dunno when you joined. But ehen i dropped my tank. And cut out a near 17 inch long section of ny frame rail there ( upper half was ok) and put in that 78 or 79 cherokees frame.

I did my body mounts at the same time. ( two still need done) and i didnt pay a dime to do them. I actually took all the rubber and cut all the top portion of the mounts off and put them on my 90.

Everyone was like oh no get new rubber... why ? That cherokee oddly the mount was 2x thicker than my squished ones and had almost no cracking hah.. even though it was 10 years older.. its wierd how somethings age less than other things on diff vehicles.

[sierrablue]

All depends on how they were used and what they built them with.

I'm probably gonna go poly on the body bushings, as rubber is exactly the wrong frequency for vibrations for the human spine, and I figure if I put poly in on the body mounts, then if there's rubber elsewhere it doesn't matter, because all of the vibrations making it to your seat will have to go through the poly first.

[candymancan]

I thought poly was harder on vibrations ? All i know is rubber today like fuel lines go bad in a year.

Nothing is built right anymore. Im hoping for the day where people rise up and say no more chinesium and poor quality control.. but thatll never happen...

[sierrablue]

I thought poly was harder on vibrations ? All i know is rubber today like fuel lines go bad in a year.

Nothing is built right anymore. Im hoping for the day where people rise up and say no more chinesium and poor quality control.. but thatll never happen...

Poly lets more vibrations through so it might make things a little less pleasant, and cause a few more rattles, but again, the frequency of that vibration isn't as hard on your body.


China isn't the <only> problem. Honestly, China makes as much junk as the US does. I'm sure I'ma piss people off with this, but lifters for the 4.0 are the perfect example. You get them made in the USA and they have hardening problems--they're not properly hardened and they die in 2 years.

Does a lot of Chinese stuff go bad now? Yes. The only reason it seems more frequent that the American stuff is that we use more made in China things now, because it's cheaper. Additionally, the cost of manufacturing anything has gone up, so companies are trying to take shortcuts to keep costs low. On top of all of that, manufacturing has progressed a lot, so they don't overbuild stuff as much as they used to, because there's less variation in the quality, thus they can build it with a much smaller safety margin.

[candymancan]

I dont think its just the 4.0 i read and see vids of a mass wide spread lifter issue for people buulding classic or repairing engines.

This is why on my prior thread.. Id rather have a good drive train and engine.. and fix rust.. I dont wanna deal with crappy ebgine parts and waste my time rebuilding a 360

[Yeller]

Doesn’t just affect new engines. I lost a lifter on my Buick 350 in my J Truck. Now I will admit, not the first lifter I’ve lost in a Buick engine.

[sierrablue]

I mean losing lifters isn't a new thing but it's gotten a lot worse. It's one thing to lose a lifter on an engine that was assembled once, 50 years ago, and you don't know for sure how it was treated. It's completely another thing to lose one every 25k miles when you rebuild an engine.

Don't get me wrong it's frustrating either way

[blueday]

Thanks for the advice fellas. I went ahead and ordered new moog tie rod ends, drag link ends and sway bar bushings for a while I'm there fix.

Ordered 4" bj's with the deavers. Just got an email from them saying they're out of stock. I asked if they have a 2.5" lift and will probably add the 1" lift shackles for the front to get it up a bit further. If that aint in stock then I'll move to the skyjacker 4" i guess.

I'm sending factory wheels out for refinish and going with some 32x11.5-15 tires to go with the lift. It"ll get a new muffler and cat while it's up in the air.

Ryan

[SJTD]

Be aware that longer shackles decreases caster and can cause handling issues. Wedged shims will fix it if necessary.

[akguy09]

I would also recommend the BDS 4" lift springs they ride really nice, if you're set on 4"

[sierrablue]

Be aware that longer shackles decreases caster and can cause handling issues. Wedged shims will fix it if necessary.

^this

Also, it can be done and I love the look of the stock wheels, but just be aware that unless you've got a set of 15x8" Jeep wheels (slots or wagon wheels from the '70s), that is WAY wider of a tire than is ideal for your 7" rim. 31x10.5s look like balloons on them, 32 and 33s are even more balloonish.

[67GMC]

As already posted, the fuel rubber lines (fill neck and vent) might make sense. Check your vent lines to the charcoal canister too and the vent lines from the axle and trans case to see if rotted out.

[tgreese]

Note that 1" lift shackles are either 2" longer, or are 1" longer than stock and give you a 1/2" lift. A 2" longer shackle on the front is more than I'd be comfortable with; less stable than the factory length. Live axles and leaf springs are outmoded by today's standards, and I'd expect too long shackles will make the suspension noticeably looser. Be sure to pay attention to your caster angle with any lift springs or longer shackles.

[blueday]

Thanks for the heads up on the castor angle of i used the longer shackles with smaller lift.

Bj's emailed and said it'd be 2-4 weeks so I'll wait.

Skyjacker lifts always look to be higher than other 4" lifts for some reason or maybe it's just me.

I ordered new tierod ends, draglink ends, sway bar bushings, upper/lower bushings ( which I'll do at a later date). I'll have to see if i can find some track bar bushings too.

Ryan

[tgreese]

Pardon while I nit pick. Not dissing you Ryan.

Castor is not caster. Caster is a type of wheel, like the casters on a shopping cart or a furniture dolly.

Castor is a few very different things, including the genus for the American Beaver (Castor canadensis), a figure in Greco-Roman mythology (the mortal son of Tyndareus, the king of Sparta), one of the stars in the constellation Gemini, and a poisonous bean (source of ricin and of a medicinal oil bearing the name).

The British sometimes spell caster as castor. Not in the USA.

Caster angle very much affects suspension stability. Positive caster is stable. More positive is more stable.

casterangle (375 x 366).jpg

[SJTD]

You made me go back to see if I misspelled it too.