Paint and Body

Modified FSJ Tech Area
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Kowpie
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Re: Paint and Body

Post by Kowpie »

Looks great! Hats off for tackling such a large job.
I used these when I reattached my emblems and they worked great. The rubber face is a nice touch:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/132485714205
'65 Wagoneer, 230 OHC, IFS, Column Shift T90/D20
'73 J4000, 6000#, 258, T18/D20, 33", full disc.
'79 CJ7, 304, T18/D20, 35", 4.56, SOA, shackle reversal.
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Yeller
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Location: Rogers County Oklahoma

Re: Paint and Body

Post by Yeller »

Looking good! Wish I had more time, in your part of the world for the Fabtech metal cutting and forming show. It’s massive, like SEMA for metal work
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.

1970 J2500 Resto Mod
https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewt ... 12&t=21395

1974 Bronco “Broncno”
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threa ... st-3411909
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Harry Dawg
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Re: Paint and Body

Post by Harry Dawg »

Thanks for the kind words y'all.

It has been a tremendous project, but has also allowed me to hone my craft and advance further into a field of study that is of great interest.

Interesting about Fabtech Yeller. I have always been fascinated with machine work and all of the equipment that goes along with it.

Will definitely be checking this out in 2023.

At any rate, I found these on eBay which look similar to what was stuck on the back of one of the badge pins. Still on the fence about what I am going to go with. I guess I should measure the posts and buy something with similar back spacing.

@yeller I don't know where my tailgate straps ran off to, so it looks like I am going with the cable supports for sure now. Is that mounting box on top factory on an F150? I found the cables, but couldn't locate that portion of the assembly.


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Yeller
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Location: Rogers County Oklahoma

Re: Paint and Body

Post by Yeller »

The box at the top is just a piece of 1-1/2” or 1-1/4 box tubing, I’m not near the truck, or I’d measure it. I cut it on a 45 on each side for easy access to use a simple drill tip screw to attach to the bedside the cable is attached to that with the OEM Ford hardware. The tailgate side is attached with a flat head 5/16” screw and self locking nut to the original tailgate brackets.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.

1970 J2500 Resto Mod
https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewt ... 12&t=21395

1974 Bronco “Broncno”
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threa ... st-3411909
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Harry Dawg
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Re: Paint and Body

Post by Harry Dawg »

Painted the bumpers flat black. I was originally going to do white trim, but since the truck came out so dark I thought the contrast would be too stark.

The fenders are off a J10, so I added the side markers to cover the hole.

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Yeller
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Re: Paint and Body

Post by Yeller »

With the black wheels the black bumpers look great.

The white would work but I think it would need to be more like Ford Wimbledon White, it is more of a cream and looks great. It blends well with most colors, but the wheels would need to be the same color or alum/chrome color, the black would clash.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.

1970 J2500 Resto Mod
https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewt ... 12&t=21395

1974 Bronco “Broncno”
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threa ... st-3411909
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Harry Dawg
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Re: Paint and Body

Post by Harry Dawg »

@Yeller
Funny you should mention Wimbledon White. That is the color I had picked out originally. I decided on black for now because the wheels are already that color, and my buddy had some extra black acrylic enamel laying around.

Plus the paint was pretty steep. A quart of that color from The Restoration Shop was $105 with hardner and reducer. I paid $135 for a gallon of the base coat with 16 oz each hardener and reducer.

I've got another set of wagon wheels, so I might paint them white and re-do the trim at some point. We will see.




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akguy09
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Re: Paint and Body

Post by akguy09 »

Looks great.
1979 Jeep J-10 304/T-18
2017 Jeep JK 2DR
2021 PowerWagon
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Harry Dawg
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Re: Paint and Body

Post by Harry Dawg »

Any ideas on how the door panels are supposed to go in?

I can't remember how they came off, but I am guessing there are supposed to be plastic retainers on the back side?

I have also seen some folks screw them in with trim screws, but I don't want to mess up my freshly reupholstered door panels.

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Yeller
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Re: Paint and Body

Post by Yeller »

Mine had trim screws so I went back with them. Don’t know if they were original or not. Guessing with the condition and nice round holes that the cards were original, but who knows lol
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.

1970 J2500 Resto Mod
https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewt ... 12&t=21395

1974 Bronco “Broncno”
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threa ... st-3411909
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tgreese
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Location: Medford MA USA

Re: Paint and Body

Post by tgreese »

This is something the parts book will show. The front door panels are 29.070-1 and the attaching parts follow, 29.070-2. All it shows are clips 960339, not screws. AR is "as required" which is little help.

My '77 and '82 use plastic clips, but I suspect a '68 will have spring steel clips. The parts book says the clip changes for '76. The ones I've seen (and according to the '62-73 book) show the top of the panel goes into a stainless channel, so no clips there. Maybe you'll want to seek that out if you don't have it. The rest of the holes in the panel are oversize so the clip goes in between the fiberboard and foam, then moves to the edge of the hole to engage the hole in the door sheet metal. The clips are a common thing for the era, and there are automotive hardware companies that sell them today. Maybe someone has an example, or a link.

These panels are sometimes called "door cards" if you are searching for fasteners.

I found this company, and this is what I recall the clips look like. https://www.upholsterysupplyusa.com/pro ... er-av12134 Many different types on this site. You may have to experiment with one or two types; unlikely anyone will have fasteners specifically for Jeep.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
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Harry Dawg
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Re: Paint and Body

Post by Harry Dawg »

So I found a sample clip that was left over from the factory door. Looks easy enough to find a similar replacement for.

Also working on replacing the door latch and window regulator thing since the studs were stripped out.

I'm pretty sure new curse words have been invented during this process.
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Harry Dawg
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Re: Paint and Body

Post by Harry Dawg »

@tgreese as always, you hit the nail on the head sir.

Those clips are exactly what I need.

Thanks for the reference!

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sierrablue
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Re: Paint and Body

Post by sierrablue »

Looking really good.

Not trying to nitpick, but why the red sidemarkers on the front? Is that legal?
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
-B350 (HEI, iron 4-barrel, Edelbrock 1406), TH400, D20
-'74 D44 front (nonpower discs)
-custom headliner
-Front shoulder belts (rears eventually)

viewtopic.php?t=23070

There are 2 major differences between new Wranglers and FSJs. FSJs are meant to be both utilitarian and capable, not just capable. FSJs are also rarely initially recognized as Jeeps by the average American.
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Harry Dawg
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Re: Paint and Body

Post by Harry Dawg »

Thanks SierraBlue.

Here is a better picture.

The front fenders are off a J10, so there were holes in them for a side marker. My choices were red and orange, and I felt like the red matched the brown better.

Personally I wouldn't have added them because there will be 3 badges per fender at some point and I think it will look a little "busy".

As far as legality, I don't see why not. It was a factory addition for the J10'S, and my CJ7 also has red side markers.

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Rhino USA Brand Success Manager
South East Offroad Activist
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tgreese
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Re: Paint and Body

Post by tgreese »

I think he's right that the fronts are supposed to be yellow and the rears red per the NHTSA specs. Enforcement depends on your local inspection station, if any. I don't think a LEO would enforce it, unless they wanted to hassle you for some other reason. My usual annual inspection station (ended business recently) would probably make me change red fronts to yellow. In the past, they warned me when one of these lenses was cracked, asking that I replace it and implying it would fail the next time. Both colors are available - lots of Jeeps use these lenses. Same as a CJ, with out the chrome bezel.

1968 is on the cusp wrt side market lights, I believe. You may not need any clearance lights, depending on your GVWR. If these are newer fenders, that explains it. Both my J-trucks have these lights front and rear, with yellow front and red rear as they came to me.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.

sierrablue
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Location: MN/CO

Re: Paint and Body

Post by sierrablue »

tgreese wrote: Mon Mar 20, 2023 7:13 am I think he's right that the fronts are supposed to be yellow and the rears red per the NHTSA specs. Enforcement depends on your local inspection station, if any. I don't think a LEO would enforce it, unless they wanted to hassle you for some other reason. My usual annual inspection station (ended business recently) would probably make me change red fronts to yellow. In the past, they warned me when one of these lenses was cracked, asking that I replace it and implying it would fail the next time. Both colors are available - lots of Jeeps use these lenses. Same as a CJ, with out the chrome bezel.

1968 is on the cusp wrt side market lights, I believe. You may not need any clearance lights, depending on your GVWR. If these are newer fenders, that explains it. Both my J-trucks have these lights front and rear, with yellow front and red rear as they came to me.
'68 they were required for cars (easiest way to tell '67-'68 Mustangs and Cougars apart). Trucks were required to have reflectors in '69 or '70, and lights in '71.

As tgreese said they're cheap and easy to find lenses.
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
-B350 (HEI, iron 4-barrel, Edelbrock 1406), TH400, D20
-'74 D44 front (nonpower discs)
-custom headliner
-Front shoulder belts (rears eventually)

viewtopic.php?t=23070

There are 2 major differences between new Wranglers and FSJs. FSJs are meant to be both utilitarian and capable, not just capable. FSJs are also rarely initially recognized as Jeeps by the average American.
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Yeller
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Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2021 7:54 am
Location: Rogers County Oklahoma

Re: Paint and Body

Post by Yeller »

My 70 has marker lights and wasn’t supposed to, wiring looks unmolested. Like many things with these trucks, lots of head scratchers that should have never been
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.

1970 J2500 Resto Mod
https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewt ... 12&t=21395

1974 Bronco “Broncno”
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threa ... st-3411909

sierrablue
Posts: 1208
Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2022 8:02 pm
Location: MN/CO

Re: Paint and Body

Post by sierrablue »

Yeah I dunno. I'm pretty sure trucks only required reflectors in 1970, since my great grandpa's '70 F100 only had/has (sitting in a field in Iowa, Idk how you want to count that) reflectors. Maybe the Fords had higher GVW than the Jeeps, so they could get away with that?

Could be a mid-1970 change too. Idk how early your truck or my great grandpa's were built.
'71 Wagoneer (DD)
-B350 (HEI, iron 4-barrel, Edelbrock 1406), TH400, D20
-'74 D44 front (nonpower discs)
-custom headliner
-Front shoulder belts (rears eventually)

viewtopic.php?t=23070

There are 2 major differences between new Wranglers and FSJs. FSJs are meant to be both utilitarian and capable, not just capable. FSJs are also rarely initially recognized as Jeeps by the average American.
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Harry Dawg
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Re: Paint and Body

Post by Harry Dawg »

Not on my FSJ, but I fixed up some hard doors for my CJ.

I picked them up for $200 bucks because the driver glass was missing.

A little Bondo and some sanding and they look good as new.

DTM primer after sanding filler and old paint with 400 grit.

2 coats of that, and then I let it flash for 30 min.

Base coat was an Omni brand metallic. Went on nice.

Sprayed it with Starfire clear. That was a bit of a fiasco, as it was drying before it hit the panel. I reduced it more and it sprayed alright.

They came out pretty good. Still need to wet sand to get some of the egg shell out.

I also redid the door panels. ImageImageImageImageImage

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1968 J3500 - 1985 CJ7 - 1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Liter Limited - 2006 Grand Cherokee Limited
Rhino USA Brand Success Manager
South East Offroad Activist
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